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Fixing A Boat Trailer


Garfield28

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12 hours ago, Garfield28 said:

Thanks for the info Ray

I really don't know what to do... I don't really have the coin for an Aussie built trailer, and don't really want second hand. I don't really understand why they cost so much for what they are! I would love to know how much per unit the Chinese ones are coz they still want $3000 for a standard 4.8 trailer single axle with cable brakes. 

I got a quote from a local dealer for a multi roller job, gal leaf springs, cable brake, single axle $4500 and a possible 6 - 7 week wait. 

Don't stress about gal springs, they will eventually run through the gal and rust anyway, the gal only delays that.

Pull the springs smooth them out where they run with a wire wheel/flapper disc on a grinder and snother the whole thing with moly grease, degrease once a year and they'll last forever and move much much smoother

32 minutes ago, demarc said:

Price is the quality and the labor involved. Checked the price of rollers and their hardware? I had to get 42 rollers for my new second hand trailer at 15 each!!

Don't discount second hand. If price is a factor can always buy one that needs work yet has a solid frame.

This ^^^

Hardware can be expensive but never discount second hand

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Starting think I'd rather just fix my trailer up. In the pic below this is the part on both sides of the outside rail that looks like this.

Not sure but maybe rusting from the inside out, and I wouldn't have a clue on how I can tell for sure, but if it is there's not much I can with it is there? 

IMG_20180702_161010387.jpg

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Just looked ate earlier photos and side rails are c section give them a good bang with a hammer and see how much flakes off on the inside. overall looks like it is repairable with replacing the crossmembers. if you go that way you will be up for a bit more maintenance as you will only be able to cold galv the repaired sections  . Ideally it may be better to pull everything off the trailer when you repair it and paint it with an epoxy or an anti corrosive paint and ensure that you give it a good hose down after use.

Certainly a lot cheaper than a new trailer especially if you an locate a friendly welder.

cheers

ray

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32 minutes ago, rayke1938 said:

Just looked ate earlier photos and side rails are c section give them a good bang with a hammer and see how much flakes off on the inside. overall looks like it is repairable with replacing the crossmembers. if you go that way you will be up for a bit more maintenance as you will only be able to cold galv the repaired sections  . Ideally it may be better to pull everything off the trailer when you repair it and paint it with an epoxy or an anti corrosive paint and ensure that you give it a good hose down after use.

Certainly a lot cheaper than a new trailer especially if you an locate a friendly welder.

cheers

ray

Cheers Ray,but the side rails are box mate not C-section. Would I still just hit the area and see what comes off? 

17 minutes ago, demarc said:

Rays advice is spot on. To me looks fatal. From the small view in the pic your hardware looks good. Some trailer brands supply a frames only. Maybe u could get an a frame and move the hardware over?

Demarc, when you say look fatal do you think the main support rail in the pic looks cactus? 

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33 minutes ago, Garfield28 said:

Cheers Ray,but the side rails are box mate not C-section. Would I still just hit the area and see what comes off? 

Demarc, when you say look fatal do you think the main support rail in the pic looks cactus? 

Looks to bes rusting from inside. However only you can confirm using rays method. Hit with hammer and compare sound to good sections. If it is a shallow kind of ding sound and u hear things falling, I think that is bad news.

Attached a pic of my crossmember from when rust inside meets out!!

20180122_184606.jpg

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23 minutes ago, demarc said:

Looks to bes rusting from inside. However only you can confirm using rays method. Hit with hammer and compare sound to good sections. If it is a shallow kind of ding sound and u hear things falling, I think that is bad news.

Attached a pic of my crossmember from when rust inside meets out!!

20180122_184606.jpg

I've read that you've refurbed quite a few trailers too mate haven't ya? 

Are you an experienced welder or have a background in metal fabrication? I have a mig welder and I know how to weld but scared I won't do my welds strong enough if I have a crack 

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1 minute ago, Garfield28 said:

I've read that you've refurbed quite a few trailers too mate haven't ya? 

Are you an experienced welder or have a background in metal fabrication? I have a mig welder and I know how to weld but scared I won't do my welds strong enough if I have a crack 

3 in total now.

I'm nothing but an I.T. guy who isn't afraid of having a go. I can't weld yet, and when I need that done I'll take it to a shop. My current trailer needed 2 new cross members. 300 bucks for them to be fab'd up and welded in place.

When I get stuck, I utilize the awesome connections I made on this site and usually have my problems solved within a few phone calls. The old "salts" on here are worth their weight in Red Emperor fillets. 🙂

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4 hours ago, Garfield28 said:

Not sure but maybe rusting from the inside out, and I wouldn't have a clue on how I can tell for sure, but if it is there's not much I can with it is there? 

I'm not a pro mate but that looks like it has rusted from the inside out. perhaps have a dig around with a screwdriver as well as a hammer. 

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Fell like crying. I just got home from work and went out and tapped the area like suggested, sounded a bit different to where there wasn't rust, then stuck a screw driver in the area by tapping it with only a pair of pliers and it went straight in, pretty much every spot that rust is showing in the pic. 

I guess now I only have one decision, I either buy a Chinese Gal trailer, or a Chinese Aluminium trailer.... spewing! 

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37 minutes ago, Garfield28 said:

Fell like crying. I just got home from work and went out and tapped the area like suggested, sounded a bit different to where there wasn't rust, then stuck a screw driver in the area by tapping it with only a pair of pliers and it went straight in, pretty much every spot that rust is showing in the pic. 

I guess now I only have one decision, I either buy a Chinese Gal trailer, or a Chinese Aluminium trailer.... spewing! 

Not a good result or feeling.☹️

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1 hour ago, demarc said:

Another way which puts it in good light, least it didn't break apart on the highway!

This is true... 

1 hour ago, Luvit said:

Absolutely. 

Just the money fixing things can be a problem. 

That certainly is the hard part

1 hour ago, rayke1938 said:

see if you can source a bare frame or get someone to make one for you the axle.springs,wheels,brakes rollers,winch post etc on your existing trailer will be reuseable and save a lot of money.

Cheers

Ray

I've been thinking about that but I don't think they are that common a thing to be able pick up cheap. How much do you think it would cost to get something like that made up? I even thought about buying the steel and having a crack at making a whole new trailer myself but I know it would take me forever and I'd imagine it would probably cost me in the vicinity of buying one anyway I guess. 

I think for about $3000 if I can get some info on these Seatrail Trailers if they are half decent I'll probably just go with one of those 

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8 hours ago, Garfield28 said:

This is true... 

That certainly is the hard part

I've been thinking about that but I don't think they are that common a thing to be able pick up cheap. How much do you think it would cost to get something like that made up? I even thought about buying the steel and having a crack at making a whole new trailer myself but I know it would take me forever and I'd imagine it would probably cost me in the vicinity of buying one anyway I guess. 

I think for about $3000 if I can get some info on these Seatrail Trailers if they are half decent I'll probably just go with one of those 

Good second hand ones do come up from time to time. It's worth looking on gumbay for a bit. 

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I have seen them at times around my area, but I'm shocked in what they are asking for when you see the condition of them. There was one the other day which wasn't too crash hot and he wanted $1500 for it. I looked at it and thought I may aswell add the other $1500 and get a brand new one. 

I'm pretty much tossing up between Seatrail and Spitfire Aluminium now I know my trailer is basically cactus 

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1 hour ago, Garfield28 said:

I have seen them at times around my area, but I'm shocked in what they are asking for when you see the condition of them. There was one the other day which wasn't too crash hot and he wanted $1500 for it. I looked at it and thought I may aswell add the other $1500 and get a brand new one. 

I'm pretty much tossing up between Seatrail and Spitfire Aluminium now I know my trailer is basically cactus 

Check how the aluminium trailer is braced. If any of it can "flex", it'll have a limited life.

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12 minutes ago, demarc said:

Check how the aluminium trailer is braced. If any of it can "flex", it'll have a limited life.

I'm told they are bolted together to allow a bit of flex because apparently if they were welded there is a chance the welds can crack in aluminium. 

Would you say bolted is no good then? 

I have just seen a video where a guy could up linseed oil and sprays it on a new galvanized trailer and has said if you do this every 1 - 2 years you will almost eliminate rust the start of corrosion in a gal trailer. I'm starting to think to save even more money just doing that and buy a gal trailer..  any thoughts on the linseed oil? 

Thanks 

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49 minutes ago, Garfield28 said:

I'm told they are bolted together to allow a bit of flex because apparently if they were welded there is a chance the welds can crack in aluminium. 

Would you say bolted is no good then? 

I have just seen a video where a guy could up linseed oil and sprays it on a new galvanized trailer and has said if you do this every 1 - 2 years you will almost eliminate rust the start of corrosion in a gal trailer. I'm starting to think to save even more money just doing that and buy a gal trailer..  any thoughts on the linseed oil? 

Thanks 

Definately cover in fishoil once a year. I've also attached a pic of the product I now cover my suspension in every 3 months. Trailer looks **** but it shouldn't rust. Also use the pipe for water flushing in the main sections.

20180201_215958.jpg

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44 minutes ago, demarc said:

Definately cover in fishoil once a year. I've also attached a pic of the product I now cover my suspension in every 3 months. Trailer looks **** but it shouldn't rust. Also use the pipe for water flushing in the main sections.

20180201_215958.jpg

Thanks for that. 

What's your thoughts on the aluminium trailer being bolted together rather than welded? 

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26 minutes ago, Garfield28 said:

Thanks for that. 

What's your thoughts on the aluminium trailer being bolted together rather than welded? 

I was avoiding that question. 🙂 I don't know a great deal to comment. All I've repeatedly herd is they hate flex and cracking frames were a common failure.

A mate lost his big boat into a ditch at 100kph from the draw bar snapping on one on the Stanage trip. After that I looked at a few at Stanage ramp and all were welded with oversize fish plates on all joins and bends.

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I had a aluminium trailer on a 5.3m fibreglass centre console. Tt was a great trailer and still looked better than most steel trailers half its age.

However, my bother has a heavy duty Aluminium trailer under a heavy 6m fibreglass boat.

His has cracking occurring and every time a new plate gusset is welded into position to strengthen it. It just moves the problem to the next weakest point which then cracks again.

May be bolting would be OK but he would not have another.

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Yeah I did read somewhere that being bolted was betters as then welds didn't crack from not having any give at all..  don't know how true or where I read it but that was pointed out as a good thing. 

Must admit I'm thinking of just getting the gal trailer and spraying that stuff on it to add protection and also a soaker hose to give it a good fresh water wash down after every use.

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6 hours ago, Drop Bear said:

Steel and Aluminium are not a good mix. They corrode each other. I don't like the new trend to aluminium trailers with a steel drawbar. 

They all seem to be doing it though drop bear. I think the Spitfire is full aluminium though not a steel drawbar 

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The problem with alloy trailers is they flex a lot and alloy being a naturally softer material means the welds are a lot weaker than steel welds.

Bolting the trailer together eliminates a lot of the weld cracking problems when a trailer flexes.

Draw bars cracking are another problem with alloy trailers which is why many use a steel one.

The boat has to be set up with the majority of its weight directly over the axles otherwise otherwise you will get a lot of flex in the draw bar which can cause them to fatigue and then break.

Boats should also be tied down both on the bow and midships on an alloy trailer to stop the front of the boat pitching on the trailer and flexing the draw bar.

A lot of alloy trailers, especially the chinese ones are too light for our road conditions here.

An alloy frame should be around twice the size of a steel frame to carry the same weight safely and to have any longevity about it.

 

 

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I just had a look at Spitfire trailers website and they appear well made only thing that I am not in favor of is the torsion suspension but that may be a personal thing as I had a trailer 20  years ago where the suspension seized up from rust caused by the ingress of water into the box section of the torsion.  The design of the torsion suspension may have changed by then and the trailer was quite old and neglected .

http://fishwrecked.com/forum/spitfire-aluminium-trailers

Cheers

Ray

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I am replacing my torsion axles that are 11 years oId because of internal rust on my trailer as we speak. 

Being a torsion axle trailer, the torsion axles form a part of the support structure of the trailer. Therefore, to change to leaf springs would require additional cross members to be installed to support the chassis from twisting when cornering. 

Instead of this I decided to replace them with Australian made AL-KO torsion axles. I really liked the torsion axles and had them on my previous aluminium trailer and they tow very well. My friend that I did the Kimberly trip with last year has a 7.2 plate aluminum boat and he has torsion suspension and also likes them.

Here is a link explaining the differences between the physics of how each work.

My summary on all of this is, spring suspension is fine and cheaper to repair than torsion, more maintenance and not as smooth to tow. The torsion more expensive, better towing, expensive to replace when the rust up and virtually maintenance free, except for hosing down which spring trailers require as well.

I am having flushing stubs with threads added to the new axles so a hose fitting can be simply clicked onto each axle and flush the inside. They will run ford size bearings (Japanese) and seals, available anywhere with stainless steel brakes and calipers. 

Considering I got over 11 years from the original axles which I have no Idea how it was washed down before I owned it.

I would expect to get between 10-15 years out of these and I don't know if I'll even keep the boat that long.

Nothing beats maintaining your trailer every year.

 

 

 

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The biggest problem I see with torsion axles is that if you do have a major bearing failure (which you should not if you check them regularly) it can score the axle shafts where the bearing run. Unfortunately the Aussie torsion shaft axle stubs are NOT replaceable which means a whole new shaft. Which is not always off the shelf and expensive.

Where as springs and fixed axles are relatively cheap and can be sourced locally and get you back on the road. 

I had a quote to replace with springs and a price to replace with torsion from different companies and they were the much the same so went with the torsion. 

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34 minutes ago, rayke1938 said:

Absolutely Ray,

They were standard on the US sub axles I bought. I thought if I ever have a bearing failure that damages the shaft I should be able to get out of it with a speedi sleeve.

Thanks for the link

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Hi all,

Just waiting on a price from a guy for Seatrail trailers, but I am leaning towards the Spitfire aluminum trailer full ally 1460 kgs ATM, hydrualic brakes, torsion axle, blue slip + other bits and pieces $4450 

Really hope I don't get burnt and its a decent build and quality 

http://spitfiretrailers.com.au/product/spitfire-trailers-aluminium-6.0M-1460kg-multi-roller-boat-trailer 

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