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Luvit's boat improvements


Luvit

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I pulled the transom cap off today as per Lance’s advice. I have scraped out the sealer and stuff it looks pretty good. I’ll replace the capping and fill everything with Sikafex 291. 9143D9A2-7AB3-46AC-947C-0A8D87707D91.thumb.jpeg.a294da69bf1b5a41af07e3e166056dfb.jpeg

After spending the full day on the other half of the transom. l can now see the soda blasting has etch all the fibreglass badly. On the test section it only took 1200 grit wet and dry to smooth it out. Hiwever when they started the pressure was not enough to lift the paint. So they had to up the pressure which has left a lot sanding to get it flat again. Far more than anticipated. 

Anyway got it to this stage.

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Hope to get the trim tab back on and all the holes from the transducer filled with epoxy tomorrow. Then l’ll epoxy some stern saver boards on to mount the transducers covering the repaired holes. 

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On 10/01/2019 at 9:10 PM, Luvit said:

Hey Waz

They did a sample dry blast and a sample wet blast. The wet blast was a better result. 

They have done a great job considering it was on a trailer and had to work on it sitting down. 

Here are some photos.

l asked them to stay away from any edges and l would do them by hand. The guy made one mistake where he thought some sikaflex was anti foul and left it on there too long and blasted through the gel coat. About the size of a thumb print on the transom. Considering the Swiss cheese l made of it trying to get my transducer position right. I will repairr both at the same time. 

Soda blasting claims to not damage fibreglass. I found it leaves a rough finish but on the test section l could use some 1200 wet and dry and it smoothed it out. I expected to have to hand sand the bottom to get it smooth. It will be a lot easier now 95% of the antifoul is gone. 

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That looks great , my boat was fouled and has layering of fouling applied by the previous owner. It looks sh!thouse, so even a matt finish will be a huge improvement.

 

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2 minutes ago, WAZA said:

That looks great , my boat was fouled and has layering of fouling applied by the previous owner. It looks sh!thouse, so even a matt finish will be a huge improvement.

 

That’s what l figured. It doesn’t stop me from using the boat so l can work on putting a shine on it a bit at a time. 

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Hey luvit.

Just a bit of a heads up on sika from personal experience. 

I was fitting out new boats recently as well as my own and I wouldn't go near sika. It fades to that off yellow very quickly and looks old in no time. Then it starts to lift.

Fixtech fix190 proved to be a much better product. It seals better and stays white. It does dry quicker but using the same application as sika it goes on just the same and wet fingers will mould the shape without getting it everywhere. 

All hatches, skin fittings etc as well as my fuel cell lid are all sealed with fix190. Still looks like new after nearly 2 years, has not lifted and the seal is tight.  

 

Just a heads up as your boat is in such nice condition.

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Thanks Junky, 

Looks like Whitworths carry it. 

l also see that 3M make a 4200 & 5200 sealant that are widely used in the USA.

l can not see where 4200 can be bought here and 5200 is here to but is for a permanent bond. 

I don’t want that. 

Looks like Fux190 is the way to go. 

Cheers

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39 minutes ago, Luvit said:

Thanks Junky, 

Looks like Whitworths carry it. 

l also see that 3M make a 4200 & 5200 sealant that are widely used in the USA.

l can not see where 4200 can be bought here and 5200 is here to but is for a permanent bond. 

I don’t want that. 

Looks like Fux190 is the way to go. 

Cheers

To easy mate.

 

Boat and rv stock it also if whitworths is to far. 

They were the ones who put me onto it cause I was whinging about sika. 

 

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OK, I have cleaned up the transom and epoxied over the timber to seal it before I put sealant and capping back on.

I have investigated the issue of transom rot and after posting on a Grady White forum about rot, no one after 1998 had rot issue since they used the XL Greenwood marine treated ply that they still use to this day. GW provide a lifetime warranty on it not rotting or delaminating. So this puts my mind at rest.

I discovered while investigating this that others with the same model boat and motor had the height at bolt hole higher than mine with no problems and they even think they could have gone higher. I figured it if I lift mine one bolt hole it would make the installation of the capping so much easier and I if it causes no issues I’l Get better economy. 

At over 250kg I didn't want any mishaps. Here is what I did.

Blocked the trailer tyres and lowered the trailer jockey wheel.

Trimmed the motor down so it was resting solidly on the skeg. 

Chocked the cavitation plate to stop sideways movement of the motor.

Positioned a trolley jack under the motor for extra support.

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Loosened the bolts.

Removed the top bolts from the motor bracket holes.

Lifted the front of the trailer by slowly winding the jockey wheel up. Checking all the time as you go.

The transom moves down.

As the motor is not going to move the bottom slotted motor bracket holes with the nut still, (but loose) allow the motor to slide up the transom to the next set of holes.

Once at the correct height the bolts can be pushed back through and secured.

 

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I'm deciding whether to replace the capping with polished stainless steel or just replace with the aluminum cap as before. The first one last 15 years.

The side mouldings are shot and I need new ones or I will do them in metal as well.

I hope to have everything back on the boat after next weekend.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, Drop Bear said:

oh aren't you a clever ****. Well done. 

Not that clever, not my ideas just googled it.

Also possibly not that clever having the soda blasting done. It is turning into one big head ache to get it back to smooth and the amount of time and effort is way beyond expectations based on the sample area they did.

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2 hours ago, Luvit said:

Not that clever, not my ideas just googled it.

Also possibly not that clever having the soda blasting done. It is turning into one big head ache to get it back to smooth and the amount of time and effort is way beyond expectations based on the sample area they did.

Bugger. It will be worth it in the end. When is the next trip? 

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  • Luvit changed the title to Luvit's boat improvements

I have changed the name of the thread so I can just keep adding to it for those of you that are interested.

It was a little hard to get new mouldings for the transom for my boat so I ended up getting some 316 Stainless steel folded up for $80 and made a capping myself. I removed the old aluminium trim cleaned up underneath it. Left for a few days then epoxy coated it to seal it. After making up the capping I went crazy with the sealant.

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While I was at it, I lifted the motor 1 hole higher and resealed all the bolts.

Put the trim tab back on and replaced the scuppers with new ones.

Next will be to mount the transducer brackets over the epoxy filly holes to clean it all up, before mounting the transducers again.

I have spent many hours sanding the front of the bow to see if I can get the etching from the soda blasting back to a shine. I have no where near finished the bow but after doing one side and putting some polish on it, I'm confident it will be good enough. It is definitely duller than the rest of the boat but heaps better than the Antifoul that came off it.

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Should have it back together by end of the week, then need to test Transducer position again etc. 

 

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Before and after shots

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Antifoul gone, new scuppers, new stainless steel capping to replace cracked plastic molding and old chopping board for transducers, epoxied filled old holes and then epoxied the stern saver mounting blocks to the hull for the transducers

I didn't really appreciate the difference until I put before/after photos side by side.  

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4 hours ago, Drop Bear said:

looks stunning. Can you screw into the chopping board and the screws stay solid? 

With the chopping board I had twice the thickness and longer screws because it is softer that the Kingboard that the stern saver material is made from. I never had a problem only that it looked like Swiss cheese after so many moves to get the position right. I noticed the Sika flex I had previously used was not adhering well to the antifoul but, it didn't come off. This has been 2 part epoxy bonded for a permanent fixing to boat. I had to buy 2 plates to cover the existing holes and where the guy soda blasted through the gel coat. I have fulll sealed all this with epoxy to be sure there is no issue down the track. 

I took photos of the transducer position and height before I removed the chopping board mount. So I hope that it should be very close and only require some minor adjustment if any. Find out tomorrow when I take my son Luke out to test it off Mooloolaba  🙂

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On 24/01/2019 at 11:58 AM, Drop Bear said:

Good luck mate. I hope they are thick. 

They weren’t🙄

the boat went well after lifting the motor by one hole. Mailed the transducers positions reading great. 

The conditions were calm all day. Nothing of any note, usual reef species. No marlin, lost a small Dollie at the boat. Luke caught 2 new species for him a skipjack tuna and Red Throat Emperor. 

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I caught this tiny Wahoo on a Soft Plastic retrieved at high speed. PB😝

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1 hour ago, kmcrosby78 said:

Couldn't get the chopping board in off-white Wayne ........ :whistle:  Looking great mate, the before and after shots certainly show the difference made. Cool little hoo!!

I could have if l wanted to wait and order from the US and pay $60 more. Trouble was l wanted to get this week. So white it was, doesn’t look that bad does it? 

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While tightening up the motor bolts the others day l thought there is a heap of pressure on just the washers. My last boat had motor support plates on it which l think are a good idea. 

It was going to cost a hundred dollars to get a set from the US because no one carries them here. 

I bought 1 meter of 50mn x 10mm Aluminum flat plate and made my own for $10. 

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I only shaped the top one that is seen. The other one will be in the bilge area and never seen. 

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Back to the sanding now. 

 

 

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