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Deep water fishing


Oceandonkey

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Im gonna be needing a setup now for fishing behind moreton etc in the deep blue.

Im looking at reels but need to know what lb line im gonna need for snapper, and other things out there. do i need 20,30,40 or 50lb line going of the experiance of some of you deep sea guys.

cheers

Luke

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No elli i was waiting on my mate to tell me if i needed one as he is buying alot of gear so i was looking in the interum. He is going to get the trolling gear i need a bottom basher. So braid is ok to use outside? in that case im probably not having to go incredibly big...was looking at the shimano TLD 25 at tackleworld last week.

30/600, 40/450, 50/350 is the specs on the site but it doesnt specify it its braid or mono http://www.shimanofish.com.au/catalog/fish/products/group_detail.jsp?JSESSIONID=Gc1GSCmSbGnMT2nkJy8RHhYJ8xTxzgtQDJ6hGbDLy92pkTp2RKRN!-360024130&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302045267&ASSORTMENT%3C%3East_id=1408474395181655&bmUID=1184645060401

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Hi OD; I have a TLD 25 ,it has 700 mtrs 30 lb Braid, with 200 mtrs 70lb mono backing (from memory). Could be a bit less now from bust offs.

The Rod its on is a SHIMANO - Tiapan Extreme 5'10\" roller tip 15-24 kgs , I find it a very good balanced outfit for Bottom Bashing or trolling up big spainards etc.

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Hey OD, I got myself a Penn combo from BCF for about $130 does well with 30lb braid for trolling, and i use a shimano sedona 6000, with approx 350yards of 30lb braid on a wilson live fibre 7\"6 rod works a treat bottom bashing. From what ive found offshore fishing if u want to feel all the bites including the smaller pickers you need braid, However if your only interested in feeling the big ones go mono, cause thats all u will feel with the stretch in mono at 50-80m. Goodluck mate.

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Cheers guys looks like braid it is. What is your preferances for brands. Iv only ever used fireline and correct me if im wrong but i dont think they have copious amounts of line.

Do you use a double uni knot to join braid to mono or does it frey? (iv herd its a bit more fragile than the fireline)

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Yes, with the roller tip the braid dosent cut into your top guide. The only fault is that sometimes when you get slack in the line ,the braid can slip off the roller and go down beside it.

I have a 15kg stick with normal tip and it was starting to get cut.

The Braid ,I cant remember the brand, but was spooled when we brought the reel at the shop. It came off a 10,000mtr spool.

My Shimano ,roller tip rod came from A-Mart allsports, in rocky, cost was $115. the TLD with braid & backing cost $215 from tackle shop in mackay.

Sometimes it pays to shop arround.

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As already mentioned, definitely go with braid. In heavier line weights i.e. over 20lbs you are probably better off avoiding fireline as it is not very supple. I have used bionic, tuff line xp and suffix herculine (I call it gay pride braid as it is multi coloured):silly: . Been very happy with all of them. Bionic is probably best as it is soft on the fingers but is also most expensive. I use 50lbs. In my opinion you are better off avoiding roller tips with braid as it can cost you a fish of a lifetime if it gets caught in between the roller and the side.

Replacing a worn tip every few years is pretty cheap.

Was also considering getting a TLD but ended up getting two tyrnos' a 20 and a 30. Glad I did as they have a higher ratio and more robust gearing which make retrieving large sinkers and fish from the depths much less tiring.

If you shop around you can pickup a 20 or a 30 for $265.

Also don't use a uni to uni for joining braid to leader. Even with about 20 turns on the braid side it is pretty damn weak. I did a test where I connected 50lb braid to 60lb leader with a uni to uni and could break it quite easily with gloved hands. I then learned how to tie a bimini twist (braid side) to albright (mono side) and am unable to break it no matter how hard I pull. I have also read that a bimini twist tied to an albright has much better strength when subjected to a sudden shock.

Hope this helps.

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Yeah the Bi-Minis are good. I just need to master them better. If they can hold a 300kg shark land based (tested and proven) they can hold a nice snapper :P

Good info dhess cheers. I would have fone the TLD but ill check out the tyrnos as well.

Angus

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Oceandonkey as you probably read in my 'Snapper Trip' report thingo, we were using 12lb braid for all those snapper which was really fun. I have caught a few big fish with really heavy line but had not really used light gear like that and it was reel good fun :P . If you’re going to use like over 50lb it's just pumping and winding, you may as well throw a bucket in the water and wind that in. I will defiantly be putting lighter line on a few of my reels now.

Cheers, Joel ;)

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Anti-reverse means it can't go backwards. On the old egg-beaters you would have a bit of backwards slack until you passed a certain point. With anti-reverse when you stop winding forward there is no slack - i.e. the handle or spool won't go backwards at all.

Cheers OD:)

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I'm not 100% sure but I think anti-reverse is on reels like Abu Garcia’s to stop the reel over-spooling.

When you cast, the spool is spinning as the line is ripped off it but when the bait hits the water the line stops being pulled off the spool. If you don't then thumb the spool, the spool with the remaining line continues to spin even though there is not line being taken away and you get massive tangles in your reel. I think anti-reverse is made so that it is not essential that you stop the spool over spinning manually. I could also be completely wrong; I just thought I saw something like that associated with anti-reverse.

Cheers, Joel ;)

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So the anti reverse system allows line out whilst your handle remains still.... and the drag system is what determins how much pressure has to be applied for the anti reverse to come into effect.

eg 1 you have very very light drag and your anti reverse is working a treat (allowing line to spew out whilst your handle remains still).

2 you have medium drag and the anti reverse is allowing line to flow out but a fair bit of pressure is being applied.

3 you have the drag system so tight that either the fish comes to you or it isnt going anywhere. pretty much the fish cant pull any line out and your line is going to bust up if its a big fish because maximum pressure is being applied to the drag system but its so tight its not allowing any give.

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OD, ive been out to deep tempest about 25 times and what ive learnt so far is as good as spinner reals are it does get a little tiring, overheads personally i dont like especially when they are brought up from 80+m without a fish need arms like arnie or a gimble to keep the rod from twisting. I now use a simple old alvey, well the new graphite ones with drag, 6½\" with 40lb live fibre braid. I dont think it really matters what combo you choose to go with, it will all catch fish. But being bought up on beach fishing all my life and inexperienced in knot tying i only ever used the oldschool blood knot, lost alot of fish so i learnt to tie the palomar knot and the dropper loop for typical patternosta rig, i think thats the most important thing to know about deep sea fishing, Maybe some of the more experienced deep sears coud let us know what terminal knots they tie..

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I'm hardly experienced in deep sea fishing but really like the palomar not. Especially with heavier line. On advice from someone who is very experienced in offshore fishing I generally used a uni knot.

I have recently gone to snelling hooks after reading these two very interesting articles:


/>http://www.fishing.sh/htmfiles/hookreports/tyingvssnelling.html
/>http://www.fishing.sh/htmfiles/knots/snelling.html

Basically the gist of the articles is that using circle hooks snelled will maximise hook up rates.

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