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Boat Trailer Wheels & Bearings Advice?


Manni79

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Hi Guys

I need some advice with regards to my boat trailer & bearings. I’m sure to some these are basic questions but it’s new stuff to me :huh::huh:

1. I’m looking for a spare trailer tyre/wheel:

Dunbier sell ‘em for around $200+ and I spoke to Beau Repairs and they quoted me a similar price

This seems pretty expensive for a spare tyre, does anyone know where I can get one cheaper, is it worth just going to wreckers? If so where is a good one near Brisbane?

Trailer is Dunbier – Tyre info 13 inch 175/80 (5 nut star pattern)

2. Wheel bearings:

I need to buy bearings etc. to fix my trailer

This will also relate to the above question – how can I determine the type of wheel hub/axle whether it’s Ford or Holden?

My understanding off the Dunbier website is the following:

Holden: 39mm or 40mm Square Axle

Ford: 45mm Square Axle

Stupid question – how do I determine which one I have ?

P.S I have messaged Mad Mullet but seeing as he is away hunting for a few days I would throw it to the mechanically savvy & McGyvers of AFO :cheer:

Thanks, Manni

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Manni,

1.

Other than Kurt I'd head down to Active Fabrications for the rest of your stuff. They will be able to sell you:

- Spare rim + tyre

- Support bracket to mount it

I'd recommend getting the spare rim mounted on a lazy hub pre-packed with grease. That way if your bearings fail on the side of the road you have a spare hub ready to go. Less mess and very quick. You can buy a bracket to take a spare hub.

2.

I'd go off the actual bearing measurements rather than the axle as older trailers may have odd combos. Generally (and in your case) I'd say most smaller unbraked trailers are Holden spec.

Hope this guide helps.

7a47_1_sbl.JPG

Cheers

Eug

EDIT:

- To fully answer your second question, just measure the diameter of the axle cross section.

- Are you coming to Greg's thing? I might be able to answer a few Q otherwise give me a bell and we can come have a look at yours.

- This is kurt's previous post which outlines the image above (http://www.australianfishing.com.au/forum/5-boating/402441-boats-bearings-bbq-and-beers-1st-april?limit=20&start=20#402607).

- Here's a bit of a guide that Ray kindly put up a long time ago (http://stores.ebay.com.au/Spinny-Things-Trailer-Parts/TECHNICAL-GUIDE.html).

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Thanks Eug

I will give the guys a call about the spare wheel and see what they come up with. I reckon the spare hub is also a way to go, i was reading some stuff just now on google, definitely better placed if i get a flat or screwed bearing on the road :)

I guess I will have to take the bearing out to work out the size, was hoping I could determine that without doing that so i can order the parts now

P.S I have a braked trailer

Dunbier state that 13 inch trailer wheels they use, 7-8 spoke Ford & 13 spoke Holden HT not sure what they mean by spoke?

Anyway - gonna move the boat on to the garage on Sunday and start pulling sh!t apart

P.S Hoping to come to Booties workshop but we are looking for a new place at the moment so most time is spent house hunting at the moment

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Eug has pretty much covered it.

Have dealt with Active too and there prices are unbeatable.

Re the spoke number its literally the number of spokes punched out in the steel wheel.

Don't get cheap chinese bearings. A fe dollars more and you will get American, japanese or german ones. Timken are pretty good.

I have found specialist bearing shops far cheaper than BCF or supercheap auto. To give you an idea you can usually get quality brand name bearings for less than noname chinese bearings.

Consider fitting durahub bearing buddies. Since putting mine on I have been very happy at how easy it is to monitor what is going inside. e.g. water ingress, oil condition. Really good for peace of mind. If you wan't to know more just sing out.

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Eug has pretty much covered it.

Have dealt with Active too and there prices are unbeatable.

Re the spoke number its literally the number of spokes punched out in the steel wheel.

Don't get cheap chinese bearings. A fe dollars more and you will get American, japanese or german ones. Timken are pretty good.

I have found specialist bearing shops far cheaper than BCF or supercheap auto. To give you an idea you can usually get quality brand name bearings for less than noname chinese bearings.

Consider fitting durahub bearing buddies. Since putting mine on I have been very happy at how easy it is to monitor what is going inside. e.g. water ingress, oil condition. Really good for peace of mind. If you wan't to know more just sing out.

Was talking to Zane about bearing buddies once before, do you need to fit the bearing buddy when you replace / repack the bearing or can that be done seperately at a later time?

The way the trailer setup is and with my chimes on the hull i tend to always need the wheel submerged in water, my understanding is that the bearing buddies will provide longer life and better management ??

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pretty sure most bearings have the part number stamped on the outer face - if you take off the bearing cap, split pin, nut and washer you should be able to read it (once you wipe away the grease)?

how much do you want to pay for a spare? I have a complete axle with discs brakes, calipers, coupling, etc and two galv wheels/tyres - would prefer to sell complete but could separate if I had multiple buyers.

marty

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Hey Manni

You need to measure the PCD to determine the type of rim.

Below is a list of PCD's and rim types.

Falcon: - 5 stud 114.3mm

Commodore: - 5 stud 120mm

48-215 (fx) - HR: - 5 stud 107.95 mm (4.25"),

HK - HG: - 5 stud 107.95 mm (4.25")

HQ - WB: - 5 stud 120.65mm (4.75")

Torana LJ/LC, LX/LH: - 5 stud 107.95mm (4.75")

Torana SL/R 5000: - 5 stud 120.65mm (4.75")

Your bearing should be holden but sometimes people change things around and have a mix of holden/ford.

Easiest way is to remove one side bearings and the number on the edge of the bearing will tell you what type it is.

Bearing buddies can be fitted at any time and its a 5 minute job.

post-7680-144598771305_thumb.jpg

4 HOLE WHEELS

Measure the distance between the centres of 2 OPPOSITE holes

OR

Measure the distance between the centres of 2 ADJACENT holes and multiply by 1.414

post-7680-144598771311_thumb.jpg

5 HOLE WHEELS

Measure the distance X between the centres of 2 ADJACENT holes and multiply by 1.7012

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Manni,

Regular bearing buddies are quite different to durahubs. Some bearing beadies are good quality others are completely crap. The problem with bearing buddies is its difficult to guage how much grease to pump into the nipples. To much and you will blow the rear bearing seals out. The other thing that can happen with bearing buddies is the grease nipple can break off in your grease gun.

I like durahubs because the bearings run in a bath of oil not grease. Less rolling resistance but I doubt it would make a real world difference. They have a clear window on the front so you can see the level and the condition of the oil. If any water gets in the oil will go milky so you can tell straight away that there is a problem. If the oil is getting old or there is wear it will discolour as well.

The challenge is installing them correctly. The key is to polish the sealing surfaces on your axle with some fine wet dry sand paper to give a perfectly smooth surface. i.e. Get rid of any machining marks. If you don't do this step the oil is likely to leak and you will have to top it up all the time.

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Manni,

Regular bearing buddies are quite different to durahubs. Some bearing beadies are good quality others are completely crap. The problem with bearing buddies is its difficult to guage how much grease to pump into the nipples. To much and you will blow the rear bearing seals out. The other thing that can happen with bearing buddies is the grease nipple can break off in your grease gun.

I like durahubs because the bearings run in a bath of oil not grease. Less rolling resistance but I doubt it would make a real world difference. They have a clear window on the front so you can see the level and the condition of the oil. If any water gets in the oil will go milky so you can tell straight away that there is a problem. If the oil is getting old or there is wear it will discolour as well.

The challenge is installing them correctly. The key is to polish the sealing surfaces on your axle with some fine wet dry sand paper to give a perfectly smooth surface. i.e. Get rid of any machining marks. If you don't do this step the oil is likely to leak and you will have to top it up all the time.

Thanks mate, and to everyone else - definitely know a lot more about this than did this morning lol

I will google durahubs and check em out

Thanks again

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In regards to bearing size. When I changed mine recently I didn't know what type to buy either, so I just bought both holden and ford bearings, and then when I pulled the old ones out I just measured them up with the new bearings to see what they were.

It turns out they were holden bearings, so I returned the ford bearings and got my money back.

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