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Think before you cut and replace


shortie

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DOH.

My bilge pump wasnt working, so i open the hatch looked at the pump. WAs a little rusty so i assumed it had given up life.

Cut the wires pulled it out.

For some reason decided to check its operation after i removed it.

Connected it to the battery and away she went.

STUPID STUPID STUPID

First rule with electrical problems is to check to see if there is power there first the check the earth.

To dark out there now to continue but im guessing ive blown a fuse.

Anyway, whilst it is out i might as well replace it.

Currently 1000 gallon/hour.

What would you suggest as a decent replacement. Bigger is better.

Richard.

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I have always used Rule's and been happy with them.

I would suggest getting a bilge pump with a built in float switch and a three way switch for the dash.

That way you can have it on full auto completely off if the float switch jams on for some reason or manual on if the float switch jams in the off position.

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Its a handy thing to have as a few times I have launched the boat left to wonder why the hull was sitting so low in the water only to find a 600-700L of rain water in the hull. :blush:

Definitely worth seting up a manual/off/auto switch in case something goes wromg with the float switch.

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Definitely go with something that has an automatic function and a manual switch for a backup. Then, just to be safe, get a hand bilge pump. I don't know what they cost here, but too many things can go wrong with electric bilge pumps and a hand bilge will move a heck of a lot more water out of the boat than trying to bail it out with a bait bucket or whatever else you can find floating around.

I burnt through 1 bilge pump in my boat (overloaded with birds and had somebody's wake go over the stern :blush: ) the handheld one saved my bum because I was able to get the water out of the engine compartment (inboard) before I got swamped. I wouldn't launch my boat without one now.

Here is the one that lives in my boat; maybe Lance has something similar..


/>http://www.cabelas.com/product/Hand-Bilge-Pump/737878.uts?Ntk=AllProducts&searchPath=%2Fcatalog%2Fsearch.cmd%3Fform_state%3DsearchForm%26N%3D0%26fsch%3Dtrue%26Ntk%3DAllProducts%26Ntt%3Dbilge%2Bpump%26x%3D20%26y%3D4%26WTz_l%3DHeader%253BSearch-All%2BProducts&Ntt=bilge+pump&WTz_l=Header%3BSearch-All+Products

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ok i purchased 2 x rule 2000 gallon/hour pumps

2x float switches

2x bilge controllers.

Will install this weekend.

Do it right first time i Say.

A customer of mine gave me some new elecrical heat shrink with adhesive on it.

ITs meant to be fully waterproof. Remeber solder all joints then waterproof.

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Just read data sheet on this new heat shrink.

Its called glue lined heaty shrink. By all account this is the only stuff that i will use for electrical connections in my boat again.

The adhesive melts and creates a water proof barrier.

Can also get resin filled jointers, but these can get a little bulky when dealing with smaller wires.

What i have also seen done on coat the joint with a sikaflex then put normal heat shrink over the top.

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Bloody hell 2 x 2000gph bilge pumps. Thats huge you are going to need a seperate battery system to power that. :silly: How big are the skin fittings thore those pumps? 1.5"?

Resin core heatshrink is good but I just solder, liberally coat in liquid electrical tape and then use regular heat shrink.

As long as you use tinned wire a few drops a bit of moisture will cause zero issues.

Those solder/resin connectors are ridiculoualy expensive at over $3 a pop.

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28mm or 1 .1/8

Same size as the current tube and skin fitting already installed on the boat from the 1000-1100 gallon/hr that was there.

Remember 1 pump is only for emergency if the other fails.

So i will only have 1 outlet with a tee piece.

OR if Greenpeace try to board me when im out whaling i can always use it as a high pressure hose to scare me off. :whistle:

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ok i purchased 2 x rule 2000 gallon/hour pumps

2x float switches

2x bilge controllers.

Will install this weekend.

Do it right first time i Say.

A customer of mine gave me some new elecrical heat shrink with adhesive on it.

ITs meant to be fully waterproof. Remeber solder all joints then waterproof.

FAR CANAL 2 x 2000!!!! Let me know how the adhesive heat shrink goes, I've heard some guys use it. At the moment I'm soldering, a dab of sikaflex and heat shrink over it. Seems like a less messy and easier option.

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