Need Advice Pls

[MarkMitch]

Hi. i just brought a 2nd hand Quintrex fishabout mkII with a 1977 35hp evinrude motor about a week ago from a previous owner. i was told that the boat didnt leak and the motor was in good running condition. I took it for a test the other day and noticed that the motor keeped poping out of drive and the boat had a pin hole leak underneath. I do not know how old the boat is as this is my 1st boat and i realy know jack all about boats. iv been told by professionals that the motor is to old and cant be fixed, but i found out the shaft lever had slipped forwed and wasn't allowing it to select the gear properly. i think that problem is solved (fingers crossed) haven't properly tested it yet only with the muffs on. i dont want to take it out because of the small leak it has, its a aluminum boat and im looking for a cheap way to fix the pin hole until i save to have it repaired properly pluss  when i took it out for the 1st time the 2 seat poles snapped so now im also looking to replace them but dont know where i can get the seats from that will fit the boat also i would like to repaint it later on after i have some use with it. im dying to just get out there and do some good fishing but at the moment i have lots of questions. i would post a pic of the boat but my image is to big

Is there any thing i can get for a fast repair for this pin whole?

where can i buy seats and seat poles from?

who sells boat paint?

 

cheers mark

[deye223]

so you bought a boat without a test run 1st ........ your a gambler then .

the answer to both questions is at your local boat chandery shop  .

 

cheers

[rayke1938]

clean out the pin hole to remove any corrosion around it and a small dob of araldite will fix the pin hole till you can get it welded. Wait a while to see if any other holes eventuate. before getting it welded up. Do not use silacone as it is difficult to weld over  as araldite  will just burn off.

Have a look at ( Aussie 123 on site name is Lance and top bloke)

http://www.reeltackle.com.au/index.php?option=com_ixxocart&p=page&page_id=about_us

 or whitworths  and see if they have the seat posts that you are looking for.

I will leave to someone else to tell you how to resize your photos.

Cheers

Ray

[Uthrax]

You can resize pics in paint

[MarkMitch]

6 hours ago, rayke1938 said:

clean out the pin hole to remove any corrosion around it and a small dob of araldite will fix the pin hole till you can get it welded. Wait a while to see if any other holes eventuate. before getting it welded up. Do not use silacone as it is difficult to weld over  as araldite  will just burn off.

Have a look at ( Aussie 123 on site name is Lance and top bloke)

http://www.reeltackle.com.au/index.php?option=com_ixxocart&p=page&page_id=about_us

 or whitworths  and see if they have the seat posts that you are looking for.

I will leave to someone else to tell you how to resize your photos.

Cheers

Ray

Thanks. i didnt know araldite was water proof but ill give that a ago cheers, yea that what was in my mind is waiting to see what other leaks come about as it is a prity old boat it seems. now i know how to resize the photos ill post some pic's of it.

what can i clean the pin hole with?

cheers again

[MarkMitch]

12 minutes ago, Uthrax said:

You can resize pics in paint

Cheers for that mate. ill post some pics soon

[MarkMitch]

Here is some pics of my 1st runabout, dont mind the mess around it i was in the process of cleaning it out. AS you can see in the 1st pic the seats poles arnt that strong and i think they sit way to high and the boats paint is abit rough but will be painting it later on in life... any tips on getting better mods for it such as lights, seats and that will be more then welcome and is there a special place that i can get those numbers from thats on the side? i will have to remove all stickers of course when i repaint it  . hopping that i can learn alot from here...thanks again for the advice

[Binder]

you have a floor, so don't worry about a few pinholes, just get a bilge pump.  cheap as chips and not a bad safety item to have.

She looks a good honest rig. Try ebay for parts if you need them. Otherwise boat motor wreckers.

Wipe with a rag and a bit of Acetone to clean it up before applying araldite.

 

[MarkMitch]

1 hour ago, Binder said:

you have a floor, so don't worry about a few pinholes, just get a bilge pump.  cheap as chips and not a bad safety item to have.

She looks a good honest rig. Try ebay for parts if you need them. Otherwise boat motor wreckers.

Wipe with a rag and a bit of Acetone to clean it up before applying araldite.

 

cheer, i will gab the acetone asap and i will look into getting a bilge pump, yea i like her tho the mrs wants to call it Nemo 

[MarkMitch]

I was doing a bit of research and found Selleys Knead It Aqua epoxy putty, should this be recommend to carry with you for a fast repair encase run into trouble on the boat? tho it dont say its for use on aluminum 

[aussie123]

Pin holes in the bottom of a boat is often a bad sign of electrolysis.

You should remove the floor and flotation and clean out anything under there.

Sinkers and brass swivels are particularly bad for aluminium corrosion.

Then you can clean up any areas that have corrosion and stop the leaks with something like 24 hour araldite or Kneadit.

Clean the area to be patched with a stainless wire brush and a solvent like acetone or thinners before plugging the holes.

They are a great old boat and it will serve you well with a bit of tlc.

 

[Binder]

That neadit is good stuff, but your unlikley to be in need of a fast repair. Also takes overnight to setup really hard.

When I was young and broke, had half a radiator repaired with it where a little excessive stopping, when I did a dukes of hazard off a creek bank, encouraged the engine fan to give the radiator a kiss.

 

5 minute areldite for your pin hole/s will do the job.

[MarkMitch]

2 minutes ago, aussie123 said:

Pin holes in the bottom of a boat is often a bad sign of electrolysis.

You should remove the floor and flotation and clean out anything under there.

Sinkers and brass swivels are particularly bad for aluminium corrosion.

Then you can clean up any areas that have corrosion and stop the leaks with something like 24 hour araldite or Kneadit.

Clean the area to be patched with a stainless wire brush and a solvent like acetone or thinners before plugging the holes.

They are a great old boat and it will serve you well with a bit of tlc.

 

Cheers, yea iv already took the floor out and gave it a good clean, was a bit concern with all the foam that was under the floor but i now know what it was there for so i had to take the floor out again and put the foam stuff back in lol

[MarkMitch]

15 minutes ago, Binder said:

Its good stuff, but your unlikley to be in need of a fast repair. Also takes overnight to setup really hard.

When I was young and broke, had half a radiator repaired with it where a little excessive stopping, when I did a dukes of hazard off a creek bank, encouraged the engine fan to give the radiator a kiss.

 

5 minute areldite for your pin hole/s will do the job.

cheers.. thats not good, luckily it only kissed the radiator

[rayke1938]

With the seats they are there to sit on and are not meant to be treated like your kitchen chairs at home. My pet hate is people who put their feet up and lean back . I use king pin mounts as they are versatile as the floor plate is flush with the deck but they do crack out when they are lent on. I have since found stainless ones which are only a few bucks dearer but are a bit stronger than the aluminum bases. They are not cheap at around $40 for just the base.

This is what I use for the 2 permanently mounted seats in my dam boat.

Product ID V2-293770 Vendor: reeltackle   Price $144.20 $132.66   You Save $11.54 Tax included

Purchase   Quantity :

Overview

305MM COLUMBIA PEDESTAL

Description

* Heavy-duty cast aluminium base with 6 x 8mm countersunk mounting holes for a solid support in a cabin or cockpit. * High-strength aluminium powder coated finish friction locking swivel base. * Moulded nylon cup insert provides a smooth swivel performance. * 228mm (9") anodised finish base. * 73mm (2 7/8") satin finish post * 360 degree rotation trac-lock swivel with a centrally located locking handle easy to reach with left or right hand. Specifications Note: Class AD (Driver): Seat mount must incorporate a mechanical interference lock and resist 150 foot pounds of torque (1800 inch pounds). For the movable seats this is the part that is attached to the bottom of the seat Product Details   Click over image to enlarge   Product ID V2-293738 Vendor: reeltackle Manufacturer: King Pin   Price $25.20 $22.68   You Save $2.52 Tax included       Purchase   Quantity :      Overview PEDESTAL SEAT BASE WITH SPRING Description * Rugged all steel construction with black autophoretic? coating (E coated) making it suitable for all marine environments. * Rotates 360 degree. * To be used with any KingPin post. * Mounting to a base without a pedestal requires a 63mm (2 1/2") hole with a 76mm (3") depth. * Recommended to be secured before road travel. * Supplied with seat mounting spring 31mm (1 1/4") long. Specifications Note: Class B: Seat mount designed for occupancy only at boat speeds not exceeding five miles per hour (8km). Within each of these classifications all pedestals must pass a series of tests (horizontal abd vertical impacts, torque and static load test). The are also two types of class A seats. Browse more in Seat Bases category    Powered by IXXO Multi-Vendor   My Profile Login Register Product Search     Advanced Search   Specials Newest Updates Hot Deals On Sale Additional Pages Home

I cannot find the base on lances site but have a look as there is very good info there which will help you choose a suitable seat.

Hope this works

http://www.reeltackle.com.au/index.php?option=com_ixxocart&Itemid=115&p=catalog&mode=search&parent=0&mid=0&search_in=all&search_str=seat+pedestal&pg=a

if it doesnt just search for seat pedestal on Lances site.

Cheers

Ray

[rayke1938]

This is the ally one from an american site

Springfield Kingpin Standard Square Base, 7" x 7"

 

Mfr. Springfield Marine

See Products On Sale $29.11 Springfield Kingpin Standard Square Base, 7" x 7".   7" x 7" Aluminum Base, With Nylon Bushing And Satin Finish 3" Cup Depth Below The Deck Mount Requires A 2-1/2" Hole In Deck Use With Standard KingPin Posts (sold separately)

[Gad]

welcome to the site, some very helpful and knowledgeable people on here. sometimes if you go to swap & sell boat markets etc, on a weekend, you can pick up required bits and pieces 2nd hand for reasonably low prices.

[MarkMitch]

On 11/26/2016 at 6:33 PM, rayke1938 said:

With the seats they are there to sit on and are not meant to be treated like your kitchen chairs at home. My pet hate is people who put their feet up and lean back . I use king pin mounts as they are versatile as the floor plate is flush with the deck but they do crack out when they are lent on. I have since found stainless ones which are only a few bucks dearer but are a bit stronger than the aluminum bases. They are not cheap at around $40 for just the base.

This is what I use for the 2 permanently mounted seats in my dam boat.

Product ID V2-293770 Vendor: reeltackle   Price $144.20 $132.66   You Save $11.54 Tax included

Purchase   Quantity :

Overview

305MM COLUMBIA PEDESTAL

Description

* Heavy-duty cast aluminium base with 6 x 8mm countersunk mounting holes for a solid support in a cabin or cockpit. * High-strength aluminium powder coated finish friction locking swivel base. * Moulded nylon cup insert provides a smooth swivel performance. * 228mm (9") anodised finish base. * 73mm (2 7/8") satin finish post * 360 degree rotation trac-lock swivel with a centrally located locking handle easy to reach with left or right hand. Specifications Note: Class AD (Driver): Seat mount must incorporate a mechanical interference lock and resist 150 foot pounds of torque (1800 inch pounds). For the movable seats this is the part that is attached to the bottom of the seat Product Details   Click over image to enlarge   Product ID V2-293738 Vendor: reeltackle Manufacturer: King Pin   Price $25.20 $22.68   You Save $2.52 Tax included       Purchase   Quantity :      Overview PEDESTAL SEAT BASE WITH SPRING Description * Rugged all steel construction with black autophoretic? coating (E coated) making it suitable for all marine environments. * Rotates 360 degree. * To be used with any KingPin post. * Mounting to a base without a pedestal requires a 63mm (2 1/2") hole with a 76mm (3") depth. * Recommended to be secured before road travel. * Supplied with seat mounting spring 31mm (1 1/4") long. Specifications Note: Class B: Seat mount designed for occupancy only at boat speeds not exceeding five miles per hour (8km). Within each of these classifications all pedestals must pass a series of tests (horizontal abd vertical impacts, torque and static load test). The are also two types of class A seats. Browse more in Seat Bases category    Powered by IXXO Multi-Vendor   My Profile Login Register Product Search     Advanced Search   Specials Newest Updates Hot Deals On Sale Additional Pages Home

I cannot find the base on lances site but have a look as there is very good info there which will help you choose a suitable seat.

Hope this works

http://www.reeltackle.com.au/index.php?option=com_ixxocart&Itemid=115&p=catalog&mode=search&parent=0&mid=0&search_in=all&search_str=seat+pedestal&pg=a

if it doesnt just search for seat pedestal on Lances site.

Cheers

Ray

Cheers. been looking at all the nice designs and that from realtackle. some have court my eye and when i get the time to try and remove the old seat polls and bolts thats bolted to the floor of the boat i can work out a suitable size pedestal that will suit the seating hight as you can see from the pics the seats feels to high and weird to drive, the bolts are that rusty its like there never been removed in its life, i more the likely need to heat the bolts up to remove em

[MarkMitch]

On 11/26/2016 at 6:45 PM, rayke1938 said:

On 11/26/2016 at 6:45 PM, rayke1938 said:

This is the ally one from an american site

Springfield Kingpin Standard Square Base, 7" x 7"

 

Mfr. Springfield Marine

See Products On Sale $29.11 Springfield Kingpin Standard Square Base, 7" x 7".   7" x 7" Aluminum Base, With Nylon Bushing And Satin Finish 3" Cup Depth Below The Deck Mount Requires A 2-1/2" Hole In Deck Use With Standard KingPin Posts (sold separately)

 

I think my bold holes are different, ill take a pic tomorrow and post it to lets yous see what im dealing with

[MarkMitch]

On 11/26/2016 at 7:34 PM, Gad said:

welcome to the site, some very helpful and knowledgeable people on here. sometimes if you go to swap & sell boat markets etc, on a weekend, you can pick up required bits and pieces 2nd hand for reasonably low prices.

cheers and thank you. ill keeps a eye out for these swap & sell markets but how do i find them? im from Sydney

[MarkMitch]

Here is the photo of the old seat polls that im dealing with

[Gad]

16 hours ago, MarkMitch said:

cheers and thank you. ill keeps a eye out for these swap & sell markets but how do i find them? im from Sydney

Sydney hey, oh well, I suppose we all can`t  be special and live north of the border in Paradise.

Try some searches for community notices re Marine Rescue/Volunteer Coast Guard, fishing/boat club fundraising markets down your way.

[aussie123]

Are the bolts that bolt the seat bases to the boat frame steel?

If so, they need to be removed and thrown away.

Nothing in an aluminium boat can be fixed with any steel screws or bolts, you must only use stainless or aluminium rivets.

Using steel will cause electrolysis which will fill the boat with pin holes.

Same for any electrical wiring, no wire should be fixed to the hull and that include an earth.

The + and - must go to the battery either direct or via a fuse panel or buss bar.

You need to check every single item that has been fitted into that boat and make sure all fixtures and fittings are stainless.

Anything steel, brass, copper ect must be removed asap.

I think you will be hard pressed to find a base like you have so you may need to look at a pedestal type and bolt them through the plywood flooring.

A fish plate below the floor will stop the bolts ripping out but again, make sure it is made from aluminium or stainless plate if it will touch the hull anywhere.

These are the best value pedestals at the moment at only $150 each for December only.

They have a swivel and slide in the price and are fully height adjustable.

There is cheaper options available similar to what is in your boat now but in all honesty, they are rubbish and will always cause issues.

It won't take much to get her fishable and it will be a fun project.

 

 

Click over image to enlarge

Product ID V2-293850 Vendor: reeltackle   Price $218.70$150.00   You Save $68.70 Tax included

Purchase   Quantity :

Overview

MANUAL ADJUSTABLE PEDESTAL

Description

ITEM DESCRIPTION:  * Heavy-duty marine grade cast aluminium base with 6 x 8mm mounting holes for a solid support in a cabin or cockpit. * Friction clamping top with slide and swivel. * Moulded nylon cup insert provides a smooth swivel performance. * Highly polished aluminium post. * Powder coated aluminium swivel. * Mechanical mechanism provides movement up and down. * 360° rotation.     PART NO. 293850 HEIGHT: 450mm-600mm Base: Diameter 305mm Post: Diameter 73mm Mount Plate: L 331mm x W 207mm

 

 

[benno573]

Stainless bolts are an option if you learn to love sikaflex. We had to mount alum framed solar panels on stainless davits on the back of the old mans yacht, put sika everywhere on and around the stainless bolts and 8 years later no issues. Either way we were going to have alum and stainless together at some point. That stops the potential electrolysis but just depends on the situation on your boat. I've just found bolts and a backing plate (even out of simple marine ply that's had a good preserver added to it) seem to give you a stronger mount than rivets into alum. Just my personal experience.

[MarkMitch]

1 hour ago, aussie123 said:

Are the bolts that bolt the seat bases to the boat frame steel?

If so, they need to be removed and thrown away.

Nothing in an aluminium boat can be fixed with any steel screws or bolts, you must only use stainless or aluminium rivets.

Using steel will cause electrolysis which will fill the boat with pin holes.

Same for any electrical wiring, no wire should be fixed to the hull and that include an earth.

The + and - must go to the battery either direct or via a fuse panel or buss bar.

You need to check every single item that has been fitted into that boat and make sure all fixtures and fittings are stainless.

Anything steel, brass, copper ect must be removed asap.

I think you will be hard pressed to find a base like you have so you may need to look at a pedestal type and bolt them through the plywood flooring.

A fish plate below the floor will stop the bolts ripping out but again, make sure it is made from aluminium or stainless plate if it will touch the hull anywhere.

These are the best value pedestals at the moment at only $150 each for December only.

They have a swivel and slide in the price and are fully height adjustable.

There is cheaper options available similar to what is in your boat now but in all honesty, they are rubbish and will always cause issues.

It won't take much to get her fishable and it will be a fun project.

 

 

Click over image to enlarge

Product ID V2-293850 Vendor: reeltackle   Price $218.70$150.00   You Save $68.70 Tax included

Purchase   Quantity :

Overview

MANUAL ADJUSTABLE PEDESTAL

Description

ITEM DESCRIPTION:  * Heavy-duty marine grade cast aluminium base with 6 x 8mm mounting holes for a solid support in a cabin or cockpit. * Friction clamping top with slide and swivel. * Moulded nylon cup insert provides a smooth swivel performance. * Highly polished aluminium post. * Powder coated aluminium swivel. * Mechanical mechanism provides movement up and down. * 360° rotation.     PART NO. 293850 HEIGHT: 450mm-600mm Base: Diameter 305mm Post: Diameter 73mm Mount Plate: L 331mm x W 207mm

 

 

yep there steel bolts as there rusty and what you see with those poles are steel aswell taking the boat out for a test run tomorrow so ill remove the lot on Wednesday 

[MarkMitch]

On 11/28/2016 at 11:33 PM, benno573 said:

Stainless bolts are an option if you learn to love sikaflex. We had to mount alum framed solar panels on stainless davits on the back of the old mans yacht, put sika everywhere on and around the stainless bolts and 8 years later no issues. Either way we were going to have alum and stainless together at some point. That stops the potential electrolysis but just depends on the situation on your boat. I've just found bolts and a backing plate (even out of simple marine ply that's had a good preserver added to it) seem to give you a stronger mount than rivets into alum. Just my personal experience.

So is stainless steel bad for aluminium boats as well? there is 2 plates that is attached to the inside at the back of the boat holding the 2 outa handles on the out side of the boat with stainless steel bolts. will post pics soon as phone charges

[benno573]

Yeah stainless and alum don't mix well. If you use heaps of sikaflex on the bolts it stops direct contact and therefore stops electrolysis. 

[MarkMitch]

There is a lot of stainless steel parts, every bolt in the boat is stainless so a lot of work to do

[sax]

I like to use Tef-Gel between stainless and aluminium to prevent corrosion. Can be purchased from boating stores like Whitworths. It is designed specifically for this purpose. 

https://www.tefgel.com.au/

[MarkMitch]

Ok iv taken the stainless steel handle support off and found some corrosive around the holes, 

[deye223]

16 hours ago, sax said:

I like to use Tef-Gel between stainless and aluminium to prevent corrosion. Can be purchased from boating stores like Whitworths. It is designed specifically for this purpose. 

https://www.tefgel.com.au/

yes me too it's very good stuff.

 

and what is being talked about is not electrolysis it is galvanic corrosion .

 

 

 

[MarkMitch]

Is there any stuff i can get to stop the galvanic corrosion thats already happening?

[deye223]

don't know about that but try cleaning ALL the white powdery stuff out and then replace the hardware with teff gel and then check it in about a month and see how it is going.

[MarkMitch]

20 hours ago, deye223 said:

don't know about that but try cleaning ALL the white powdery stuff out and then replace the hardware with teff gel and then check it in about a month and see how it is going.

Thanks

[MarkMitch]

Hi all, thanks for all the grate advice's. well now im ready to take the boat off the road to paint the hull and replace some rollers thats split on the trailer. iv watched lots of vids on how to remove the boat safely from the trailer but the thing is wen its removed i need to flip the boat on its side to remove all the old paint from the hull and give it a new one. will it be safe for the boat to lay on its side on a hard ground being aluminium? i am one person doing this by the way.. was thinking putting some old mattress down to rest the boat on, i will be only repainting the hull to the water line for now.. cheers

[aussie123]

The boat is fine on the ground.

Most guys will sit the boat on old car tyres but for a small tinny, it doesnt really matter.

[MarkMitch]

hi all. well im in the process of removing all the old paint from the boat to repaint it. there is a lot of corrosion that is just starting off. is it safe to clean the corrosion with a brass bristle wire drill brush? its all i have atm. and can i use CRC Salt & Corrosion Terminator or something like Septone Rust Converter to stop the corrosion? cheers

[MarkMitch]

Well hull is all painted and finished. sides and inside will be next with my new outboard ready to fit, just hope the paint holds up to the water

[Binder]

Your keen!

Will make you cry the first scratch you put in her !

[MarkMitch]

Well all painted and outboard is on.. now its time to work on getting the seats