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Fishing Boat Within 10k


dhingchakdude

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Hi all,

I live in Adelaide .The main thing I am looking in a boat after safety is ability to drive it standing, I prefer to drive it while I stand, if thats not an option then I will go for a normal boat.

I have tried using a drone, but I could only go as far as 500m from the shore. I would appreciate if anyone can give any tips, tricks for buying a used boat, and if buying new boat is of any good?

Max people that can fit in, I would say 3-4. If there is a boat for 2, that would be fine, as long as its not very tiny that if there are waves I am draining water using a bucket... lol

something like this...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1QS5Nww2NrI

 

Is the boat in pic the same from the video?

 

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Beautiful looking boat! I currently have a buddy cabin Haines Hunter 470SF but am wishing I had of bought a centre console mainly as this thing is a pain on your own.. Managable but tedious with a strong current and wind to dock....Plus the kids don't go with me as much as I would like due to the ex..

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27 minutes ago, kmcrosby78 said:

Mate look on Boatsales and Gumtree and you'll find plenty of options in your price bracket. Take a look and see/work out what you think you like and then come back on here for opinions on which ones are best suited to what you want to use it for 🙂 

There are so many... (

If I could get advice on a perfect boat, then it would good for me.

I saw Busta 420, but I would have to manually steer the motor, if I could get a steering in that boat class, then it would suit my need.

And also, I am new to boats, so not sure which boat gives me ability to drive it while I stand... (

 

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13 minutes ago, dhingchakdude said:

There are so many... (

If I could get advice on a perfect boat, then it would good for me.

I saw Busta 420, but I would have to manually steer the motor, if I could get a steering in that boat class, then it would suit my need.

 

The problem is there is no perfect boat and they all have their positives and negatives. You need to decide what size you want, what size motor, how much fuel/range you want, whether you want a shallow draft boat (for creeks, etc) or a deep hull, half/cuddy cabin or side console or centre console, fibreglass/plastic/alloy/plate alloy. Lots to weigh up, but it needs to start with you getting/gaining an idea of what may suit your needs.

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16 minutes ago, kmcrosby78 said:

The problem is there is no perfect boat and they all have their positives and negatives. You need to decide what size you want, what size motor, how much fuel/range you want, whether you want a shallow draft boat (for creeks, etc) or a deep hull, half/cuddy cabin or side console or centre console, fibreglass/plastic/alloy/plate alloy. Lots to weigh up, but it needs to start with you getting/gaining an idea of what may suit your needs.

And I thought, I could go and buy a boat. Its not easy as it looks. 

now, where do I start from.... hmmm

Size: Enough for at least 2 people

Range: No idea on that, probably 10-20 km...?

Boat to be used in the sea is what I know, center or side console would be fine.

Material: Safety first, so anything that is not too expensive.

Basically a boat which I can drive while standing is my main priority is it should be able to drive while standing.

https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/wanneroo/motorboats-powerboats/quintrex-bayhunter-475/1202077069

 

How does this look? Can I drive it standing?

 

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If you're brand new to boating, I'd go and look at a boatyard first so you can see them in the flesh and get some ideas from the staff there, that would be a good starting point. You'll probably want to look at minimum 14ft boats, probably 15-16ft would suit you best I suspect, and probably either centre or side console (unless you want some sort of cabin at the front to sleep in). As far as what they're made of, looking at them in the flesh and talking to the boatyard staff will start you on the track to making this decision. Good luck and report back with your progress so we can help more 🙂 

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4 minutes ago, kmcrosby78 said:

If you're brand new to boating, I'd go and look at a boatyard first so you can see them in the flesh and get some ideas from the staff there, that would be a good starting point. You'll probably want to look at minimum 14ft boats, probably 15-16ft would suit you best I suspect, and probably either centre or side console (unless you want some sort of cabin at the front to sleep in). As far as what they're made of, looking at them in the flesh and talking to the boatyard staff will start you on the track to making this decision. Good luck and report back with your progress so we can help more 🙂 

Any genuine and friendly boatyard you are aware about in Adelaide? BTW, I am new to Australia, so not at all familiar with a lot of stuff,

Hows this?

 

https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/wanneroo/motorboats-powerboats/quintrex-bayhunter-475/1202077069

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8 hours ago, dhingchakdude said:

Any genuine and friendly boatyard you are aware about in Adelaide? BTW, I am new to Australia, so not at all familiar with a lot of stuff,

Hows this?

 

https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/wanneroo/motorboats-powerboats/quintrex-bayhunter-475/1202077069

Mate, if you've never owned a boat before, and don't have any experience with them, my advice to you is to buy yourself a basic tinny with tiller steer in the 3.8 to 4.2 mtr range and get fishing in rivers and creeks , generally safer then out in the bay or offshore when you have no experience, owning a boat can be expensive particularly if it is sitting around in the garage or yard, which it will , regardless of all your best intentions, as weather, work etc will get in the way of fishing, unless of course you have plenty of money and don't have to work, what I am saying mate is experience it first, and see if you like it, if you do and can see you will be fishing enough to justify spending more money on your ideal boat, then do it, I am on my 4th boat and I still haven't got it quite right, and most of the guys on this site will tell you the same, by the way the rig you put a picture up in your initial post, will set you back about $40k.

MSB

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If you want to stand up then a side console is no good. They are a sit down and drive boat mostly. So is a tiller steer, although tiller steer is the way to go when under 4.5m imo. 

Ideally you are after a center console or half cabin cuddy cab center cab if you want to stand up. The boat in the video you posted is a center console. 

 

 

There are 2 main materials boats are made from. Fiberglass and aluminum. There is also a boat builder called pollycraft and their boats are moulded plastic, similar to your otto or wheelie bin material. 

 

If looking at glass boats then rotting timber under the glass is what to check for. The hull is moulded fiberglass so there is no timber as such in the outer mould but the transom and stringers/floor have timber formers that the glass is layed over once the hull is removed from the mould. The timber eventually gets water entry and rots out. This weakens the structure although not that bad in stringers it can be detrimental to the boats strength when in the transom...especially when big horsepower engines are fitted.

Older glass boats can be picked up relatively cheap. Keep in mind that glass is heavier so you'll need more horsepower on the back to push it.

The outer covering on glass boats known as gel coat can crack due to stress. So check for signs of stress and fatigue around deck joins and sides. Thebkeel is another spot that glass boat owner abuse so check the keel thoroughly. Tapping of the transom can give an idea of a delaminated fiberglass covering or rotting transom. Grab the outboardleg and lift it up and down and see if the outboard mounting clamp moves with the transom. This should be a solid area so movement would indicate aweakend transom.....although still very hard to identify.

Repairing glass is not that hard but a clean finish is not all that easy to get unless you paint the repaired section. Replacing transoms etc is a little more involved so advised to seek professional help. 

Glass boats are not built for running up on the shore like alloy boats. Once the gel coat is compromised then water starts to enter into the structure of the boat eventually causing more damage. Basically you have to be more careful when in glass boats. 

 

Aluminum is the preferred material for smaller boats but is still used for larger boats as well. 

The alloy boats with clinker sides are what are known as pressed tinny's.

A softer temper alloy normall off a roll of 1.3mm - 3mm thick (depending on size of boat) is layed in a break press to puch out the shape of the panel. The lower tensile alloy is strengthened because of the clinker folds. Keep in mind that some manufactures are tricking you with some models not having the clinker folds in the side giving the illusion it is a plate boat. After the panels are pressed out the builder welds all the panels together over a series of extrusions to form up the finished boat. 

Plate aluminum is more for the larger boats. Plate alloy is when a flat sheet of alloy or 5083 is either routed by machine or cut out using a template to the required shape. Then a fabricator will fold the sheet over the formed up stringers and bulk heads. The sheet has no form to it meaning it is flat still, so the cut out sheets are folded around using brute force of the fabricator and whatever leverage he can get on the jig he is building it on. The hull sheets are the hardest ones to fold...especially when they're thicker 5 to 6mm sheets. These boats rely on their strength coming from the floor construction. Full length bulk heads and stringers as apposed to the extrusions used in pressed models. This is when it becomes expensive due to build times. You could essentially throw a pressed tinny together in a day however a plate boat can take weeks to build. 

Alloy boats in most cases are lighter and easier to manage on your lonesome. They don't require as much horsepower to push them however they do ride rougher than glass because of this. They are also noisier and colder to be in. 

Alloy also cracks but a repair is as simple as running a weld over the affected area however this should be done by an experienced alloy fabricator as alloy is very easy to blow holes in and an inexperienced welder can create more problems than what they started with. 

So when checking alloy hulls look for cracks around all the vital welds. Start at the keel and work out to the chines and up to the gunwhales. Also the transom and the transom gussets inside. Alloy won't crack on the weld as much as it does beside the weld. So some cracks can be hard to see. Then check inside the hull. Check all the extrusions and if there is a ply floor then get the owner to lift the floor. This is where the neglect will be seen in a boat. 

 

 

In my experience a smaller boats up to 5m are better with either tiller steer or side/center console. Forward controls require the skipper to be at the front of the boat. The front/bow of a boat is the roughest place to be. The outboard has the smoothest ride on a boat so in smaller boats that is the place to be.....or as close to it as possible. 

Tiller steer is when you have a handle that is connected directly to the outboard.  This application allows the skipper to be at the rear/stern of the boat (the smoothest place to be). Steering is direct and most tiller handles these days have all the controls right there on them. Tiller steer also allows the most fishing space possible in a boat. Most tiller owners will fit what they call a casting deck at the bow. Basically a floor from the top of the front seat that goes right up and under the anchor well. Hatches can also be added to the floor of a casting deck for storage areas. 

Center console's or roundabouts as I call them allow you to be center of the hull and standing. This lets the legs to act as shock absorbers and the ride is not as rough as being up at the bow but because your standing up doesn't require the ride to be as smooth as when sitting like in the tiller steer.  You still have a lot of fishing platform as well. Some center consoles have what is called a targa or roof. These can also be a fold down option on some boats. Keep in mind that a fold down targa creates a weak point at the fixing points. 

 

Outboards.....

Where to start? 

2 stroke engines tend to be more common on the smaller boats due to weight restrictions....but the 2 stroke is on death row. Every greeny worldwide is looking to end their life and I believe that happens next year. That does not mean you can't own one....you just can't buy a new one.

Overall appearance of the motor. Lift the cowl and check for corrosion. I can say with all honesty that mercury are the leaders in corrosion resisting materials so a merc may look good on the ouside yet have other issues. Some other outboard manufacturers have terrible corrosion resistance.

Check starting from cold...when you lift the cowl, feel the engine to see if the owner has pre started it before you get there. Not a biggie but the engine may have cold start issues. You don't want to be out there pull starting a dead engine. 

Run the motor on the muffs. Check for noises (yamaha enduro 2 cyl 2 strokes are very noisey but tend to be bulletproof so keep that in mind) Check for a strong tell tail (that's the water outlet just under the cowl). Weak pressure could be a poor impeller or blockages in water galleries in the motor castings. Check the electrics for corrosion. Check gear oil. It should be clean like oil is. If it is milky then there is water entry into the gearbox. Check the prop for gouges and out of shape blades. Check the skeg (fin at bottom of leg in front of the propeller) for signs of damage. Most skeg will have some paint off them due to hitting the ground however broken skegs are a sign of some much larger impacts. 

4 stroke engines will be heavier however they will most likely have electric start, electric trim and tilt making life a he'll of a lot easier than manual options. Same check's for 4 stroke as 2 stroke as well as engine oil levels and condition of oil. If it is a sludge then chances are the owner has been lazy in changing the oil.  

Check all motors for signs of leaks.

 

As well as the boat you have to check trailers thoroughly. The most neglected item in most cases. Broken welds, rust, poor galvanised parts or painted parts. Painting a trailer is not a bad thing....it just needs to be checked and preferably painted in some form of rust prevention paint. 

Don't be afraid to climb down and look at the trailer from the ground up. The box sections will rust out underneath and look fine from the top.  Jack up the wheels and check for excessive movement or noises in bearings. 

 

 

Hope some of this helps you. 

 

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48 minutes ago, Junky said:

If you want to stand up then a side console is no good. They are a sit down and drive boat mostly. So is a tiller steer, although tiller steer is the way to go when under 4.5m imo. 

Ideally you are after a center console or half cabin cuddy cab center cab if you want to stand up. The boat in the video you posted is a center console. 

 

 

There are 2 main materials boats are made from. Fiberglass and aluminum. There is also a boat builder called pollycraft and their boats are moulded plastic, similar to your otto or wheelie bin material. 

 

If looking at glass boats then rotting timber under the glass is what to check for. The hull is moulded fiberglass so there is no timber as such in the outer mould but the transom and stringers/floor have timber formers that the glass is layed over once the hull is removed from the mould. The timber eventually gets water entry and rots out. This weakens the structure although not that bad in stringers it can be detrimental to the boats strength when in the transom...especially when big horsepower engines are fitted.

Older glass boats can be picked up relatively cheap. Keep in mind that glass is heavier so you'll need more horsepower on the back to push it.

The outer covering on glass boats known as gel coat can crack due to stress. So check for signs of stress and fatigue around deck joins and sides. Thebkeel is another spot that glass boat owner abuse so check the keel thoroughly. Tapping of the transom can give an idea of a delaminated fiberglass covering or rotting transom. Grab the outboardleg and lift it up and down and see if the outboard mounting clamp moves with the transom. This should be a solid area so movement would indicate aweakend transom.....although still very hard to identify.

Repairing glass is not that hard but a clean finish is not all that easy to get unless you paint the repaired section. Replacing transoms etc is a little more involved so advised to seek professional help. 

Glass boats are not built for running up on the shore like alloy boats. Once the gel coat is compromised then water starts to enter into the structure of the boat eventually causing more damage. Basically you have to be more careful when in glass boats. 

 

Aluminum is the preferred material for smaller boats but is still used for larger boats as well. 

The alloy boats with clinker sides are what are known as pressed tinny's.

A softer temper alloy normall off a roll of 1.3mm - 3mm thick (depending on size of boat) is layed in a break press to puch out the shape of the panel. The lower tensile alloy is strengthened because of the clinker folds. Keep in mind that some manufactures are tricking you with some models not having the clinker folds in the side giving the illusion it is a plate boat. After the panels are pressed out the builder welds all the panels together over a series of extrusions to form up the finished boat. 

Plate aluminum is more for the larger boats. Plate alloy is when a flat sheet of alloy or 5083 is either routed by machine or cut out using a template to the required shape. Then a fabricator will fold the sheet over the formed up stringers and bulk heads. The sheet has no form to it meaning it is flat still, so the cut out sheets are folded around using brute force of the fabricator and whatever leverage he can get on the jig he is building it on. The hull sheets are the hardest ones to fold...especially when they're thicker 5 to 6mm sheets. These boats rely on their strength coming from the floor construction. Full length bulk heads and stringers as apposed to the extrusions used in pressed models. This is when it becomes expensive due to build times. You could essentially throw a pressed tinny together in a day however a plate boat can take weeks to build. 

Alloy boats in most cases are lighter and easier to manage on your lonesome. They don't require as much horsepower to push them however they do ride rougher than glass because of this. They are also noisier and colder to be in. 

Alloy also cracks but a repair is as simple as running a weld over the affected area however this should be done by an experienced alloy fabricator as alloy is very easy to blow holes in and an inexperienced welder can create more problems than what they started with. 

So when checking alloy hulls look for cracks around all the vital welds. Start at the keel and work out to the chines and up to the gunwhales. Also the transom and the transom gussets inside. Alloy won't crack on the weld as much as it does beside the weld. So some cracks can be hard to see. Then check inside the hull. Check all the extrusions and if there is a ply floor then get the owner to lift the floor. This is where the neglect will be seen in a boat. 

 

 

In my experience a smaller boats up to 5m are better with either tiller steer or side/center console. Forward controls require the skipper to be at the front of the boat. The front/bow of a boat is the roughest place to be. The outboard has the smoothest ride on a boat so in smaller boats that is the place to be.....or as close to it as possible. 

Tiller steer is when you have a handle that is connected directly to the outboard.  This application allows the skipper to be at the rear/stern of the boat (the smoothest place to be). Steering is direct and most tiller handles these days have all the controls right there on them. Tiller steer also allows the most fishing space possible in a boat. Most tiller owners will fit what they call a casting deck at the bow. Basically a floor from the top of the front seat that goes right up and under the anchor well. Hatches can also be added to the floor of a casting deck for storage areas. 

Center console's or roundabouts as I call them allow you to be center of the hull and standing. This lets the legs to act as shock absorbers and the ride is not as rough as being up at the bow but because your standing up doesn't require the ride to be as smooth as when sitting like in the tiller steer.  You still have a lot of fishing platform as well. Some center consoles have what is called a targa or roof. These can also be a fold down option on some boats. Keep in mind that a fold down targa creates a weak point at the fixing points. 

 

Outboards.....

Where to start? 

2 stroke engines tend to be more common on the smaller boats due to weight restrictions....but the 2 stroke is on death row. Every greeny worldwide is looking to end their life and I believe that happens next year. That does not mean you can't own one....you just can't buy a new one.

Overall appearance of the motor. Lift the cowl and check for corrosion. I can say with all honesty that mercury are the leaders in corrosion resisting materials so a merc may look good on the ouside yet have other issues. Some other outboard manufacturers have terrible corrosion resistance.

Check starting from cold...when you lift the cowl, feel the engine to see if the owner has pre started it before you get there. Not a biggie but the engine may have cold start issues. You don't want to be out there pull starting a dead engine. 

Run the motor on the muffs. Check for noises (yamaha enduro 2 cyl 2 strokes are very noisey but tend to be bulletproof so keep that in mind) Check for a strong tell tail (that's the water outlet just under the cowl). Weak pressure could be a poor impeller or blockages in water galleries in the motor castings. Check the electrics for corrosion. Check gear oil. It should be clean like oil is. If it is milky then there is water entry into the gearbox. Check the prop for gouges and out of shape blades. Check the skeg (fin at bottom of leg in front of the propeller) for signs of damage. Most skeg will have some paint off them due to hitting the ground however broken skegs are a sign of some much larger impacts. 

4 stroke engines will be heavier however they will most likely have electric start, electric trim and tilt making life a he'll of a lot easier than manual options. Same check's for 4 stroke as 2 stroke as well as engine oil levels and condition of oil. If it is a sludge then chances are the owner has been lazy in changing the oil.  

Check all motors for signs of leaks.

 

As well as the boat you have to check trailers thoroughly. The most neglected item in most cases. Broken welds, rust, poor galvanised parts or painted parts. Painting a trailer is not a bad thing....it just needs to be checked and preferably painted in some form of rust prevention paint. 

Don't be afraid to climb down and look at the trailer from the ground up. The box sections will rust out underneath and look fine from the top.  Jack up the wheels and check for excessive movement or noises in bearings. 

 

 

Hope some of this helps you. 

 

Some help? This has been the most helpful advice I have received... cheers bro!

I will keep these points in mind... is there a technician I can hire who can inspect things for me?

 

And one curious thing... why in the world are boats expensive compared to cars!!

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5 hours ago, MSB said:

Mate, if you've never owned a boat before, and don't have any experience with them, my advice to you is to buy yourself a basic tinny with tiller steer in the 3.8 to 4.2 mtr range and get fishing in rivers and creeks , generally safer then out in the bay or offshore when you have no experience, owning a boat can be expensive particularly if it is sitting around in the garage or yard, which it will , regardless of all your best intentions, as weather, work etc will get in the way of fishing, unless of course you have plenty of money and don't have to work, what I am saying mate is experience it first, and see if you like it, if you do and can see you will be fishing enough to justify spending more money on your ideal boat, then do it, I am on my 4th boat and I still haven't got it quite right, and most of the guys on this site will tell you the same, by the way the rig you put a picture up in your initial post, will set you back about $40k.

MSB

You have a point. I totally get it.

 

 Yeah.. I have to work.. and with the points you highlighted. I will have to think about this through..

I can totally relate to your advice .. I buy few things then after some usage it stays unused, and with a boat lying in my garage... it won't be a good sight.

I doubt there are many rivers in Adelaide,  and whether I will like going there since I live close to beach.

 

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51 minutes ago, dhingchakdude said:

You have a point. I totally get it.

 

 Yeah.. I have to work.. and with the points you highlighted. I will have to think about this through..

I can totally relate to your advice .. I buy few things then after some usage it stays unused, and with a boat lying in my garage... it won't be a good sight.

I doubt there are many rivers in Adelaide,  and whether I will like going there since I live close to beach.

 

Most of us on here are from up Brisbane way or northern coasts NSW. Why don't you look for a local fishing club and try and get some advice there. Find a small tackle shop or even chat to older fellas in BCF if you have one or a Tackleworld (these guys are great). Best point of advice is always locals...

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http://www.clubsofaustralia.com.au/Fishing/Clubs-in-South-Australia.html

With our massive range of fishing tackle Tackle World Adelaide Metro has you covered! Rods, reels, lures and terminal tackle is our speciality!
 
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@Junky has generously provided lots of valuable information and there is not much more that l could add. 

Once you decide on a boat you may wish to purchase you can employ a mobile marine mechanic or a boat inspection company that can provide you a report on the condition of the hull and motor. Similar to a car inspection check. 

With it being your first boat this would be worth while investment IMO. I have had 8 or so boats and still had l had a check done on boat l have currently. 

 

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4 hours ago, Luvit said:

@Junky has generously provided lots of valuable information and there is not much more that l could add. 

Once you decide on a boat you may wish to purchase you can employ a mobile marine mechanic or a boat inspection company that can provide you a report on the condition of the hull and motor. Similar to a car inspection check. 

With it being your first boat this would be worth while investment IMO. I have had 8 or so boats and still had l had a check done on boat l have currently. 

 

I was referring to these boats I found on gumtree

2000 Clayton Marine Tridant 4.2

And this

Boat

Center console boat

stejcraft 15ft half cab boat

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I am another Brisbaneite so only familiar with boats available in Qld.

 Stejcraft,Haines Hunter,and Cruisecraft are long established boat building firms with a reputation for building well designed seaworthy fibreglass hulls, Just be certain that you get a reputable person to check out the condition of the hull,motor and trailer.

You may be better off joining a local forum such as https://www.fishinsa.com.au/forums/

Because they would be more familiar with locally produced boats.

Another thing to consider is what car you intend to tow with and check its towing capacity with the weight of the boat you wish to tow with. An alluminium boat of 15 to 16 feet will be a couple of hundred kg less than a glass boat but will not be as comfortable to ride in.

Another advantage of a local forum you may be able to meet up with a couple of members who may be able to take you out in theirboats and helpyou form an idea on your own choice of boat that will suit your needs.

Cheers

Ray

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9 hours ago, dhingchakdude said:

I was referring to these boats I found on gumtree

2000 Clayton Marine Tridant 4.2

And this

Boat

Center console boat

stejcraft 15ft half cab boat

Hey mate,

Welcome to the hunt for the perfect boat.

It has taken me years to work out what I think I want and now that I have it I want something else. 

The advice above is excellent. Try to really under stand what they are saying.

I agree with some of the others that if this is your fist boat I would try and find a small tiller steer aluminium boat of around $2,000 that is about 5 to 8 years old.

It is a huge commitment buying a large boat and so much can (and will) go wrong. If you buy a small boat you will be able to fish in the river etc and get to know the water. 

Also try and find a fishing some fishing charters in Adelaide.  Ask heaps of questions. Here are some I googled.

https://absolutefishingcharters.com.au/

https://fishingtripsandfishingchartersadelaide.com.au/

https://www.fishingcharterbase.com/basic-fishing-tuition-land-based-charters-adelaide

Don't be in a hurry or you will most likely buy something that doesn't suit you. 

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That centre console on gumtree looks very much like an old vintage 1970S model dehaviland. Good sea boat but not overmuch freeboard, They were handmade in the old dehaviland aircraft factory. The transom behind the motor looks a bit sus they originally came with plywood between the motor and the hull and the aluminium tended to corrode out behind the plywood. They are also a riveted hull and if worked hard the rivets tended to work loose and leak. It is a bugger of a job to repair . If you are lucky you can reswage the rivets otherwise you have to drill them out and replace with new rivets.It is impossible to access some of the rivets without removing the seats. Boat is way overpriced considering its age.

I would avoid all dehaviland riveted hulls look for an old clarke abalone in good nick they were a wet hull but built like the proverbial brick shithouse. Other tinny hulls that are ok are bookers,quinterx,stessl, savage ( Beware of the old ospreys they are a bugger for broaching in a following sea)bluefin ( Not the later chinese ones)stacer,stessco and seajay there may be others that are popular in SA that are not in QLD so seaking local knowledge is essential.

Of course you could do the right thing and move to QLD.😄

Cheers

Ray

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13 hours ago, rayke1938 said:

That centre console on gumtree looks very much like an old vintage 1970S model dehaviland. Good sea boat but not overmuch freeboard, They were handmade in the old dehaviland aircraft factory. The transom behind the motor looks a bit sus they originally came with plywood between the motor and the hull and the aluminium tended to corrode out behind the plywood. They are also a riveted hull and if worked hard the rivets tended to work loose and leak. It is a bugger of a job to repair . If you are lucky you can reswage the rivets otherwise you have to drill them out and replace with new rivets.It is impossible to access some of the rivets without removing the seats. Boat is way overpriced considering its age.

I would avoid all dehaviland riveted hulls look for an old clarke abalone in good nick they were a wet hull but built like the proverbial brick shithouse. Other tinny hulls that are ok are bookers,quinterx,stessl, savage ( Beware of the old ospreys they are a bugger for broaching in a following sea)bluefin ( Not the later chinese ones)stacer,stessco and seajay there may be others that are popular in SA that are not in QLD so seaking local knowledge is essential.

Of course you could do the right thing and move to QLD.😄

Cheers

Ray

Help me find job in IT in QLD..  I will move...

 

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14 hours ago, rayke1938 said:

That centre console on gumtree looks very much like an old vintage 1970S model dehaviland. Good sea boat but not overmuch freeboard, They were handmade in the old dehaviland aircraft factory. The transom behind the motor looks a bit sus they originally came with plywood between the motor and the hull and the aluminium tended to corrode out behind the plywood. They are also a riveted hull and if worked hard the rivets tended to work loose and leak. It is a bugger of a job to repair . If you are lucky you can reswage the rivets otherwise you have to drill them out and replace with new rivets.It is impossible to access some of the rivets without removing the seats. Boat is way overpriced considering its age.

I would avoid all dehaviland riveted hulls look for an old clarke abalone in good nick they were a wet hull but built like the proverbial brick shithouse. Other tinny hulls that are ok are bookers,quinterx,stessl, savage ( Beware of the old ospreys they are a bugger for broaching in a following sea)bluefin ( Not the later chinese ones)stacer,stessco and seajay there may be others that are popular in SA that are not in QLD so seaking local knowledge is essential.

Of course you could do the right thing and move to QLD.😄

Cheers

Ray

Great post thanks Rayke

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