Luvit

Luvit's boat improvements

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Wow looks fantastic! Great call mate.

Would you consider buying a small tub of paint stripper and doing a small test area? Might save you hours especially on the un flat spots like that water outlet in the photo. 

Also you probably know this but i messed up on an old boat. Watch sanding the courners as it is extremely easy to sand these too deeply and go through the gell coat. 

I look forward to seeing the results one day out on the water.

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I may use the paint stripping gel on the bottom part of the hull. If I do I can use it around the fittings. It expensive stuff so l’ll wait to see if l need it. 

The fittings are painful to work around. I will possibly replace the through hull fittings down the track if this all goes well. 

Based on the work already done I estimate it will take about 6-8hrs for one side to be done to polished stage. 

Will be careful on the edges as per your advice. 

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That is this years  project for my kevlarcat , I was advised soda blasting will not harm the gel coat. Twin hulls are far too difficult to fiddle around with sanders, having pods etc. you have got a really good result for your efforts.

Cheers

Waz

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On 01/01/2019 at 8:55 AM, WAZA said:

That is this years  project for my kevlarcat , I was advised soda blasting will not harm the gel coat. Twin hulls are far too difficult to fiddle around with sanders, having pods etc. you have got a really good result for your efforts.

Cheers

Waz

I’v heard conflicting information on this. If you do have it done l would be interested in seeing the results. 

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On 31/12/2018 at 3:10 PM, kmcrosby78 said:

Looking great Wayne. For the uninitiated, what's the deal/idea with antifoul? Is it a protective coating to limit scratches?

It’s a coating that boats have up to the water line that reduces the amount of marine growth adherent to the hull. There are different types depending on boats use. It is primarily used on boats that are moored in the water for long periods of time or large boats not removed from the water.  It has to be redone on a regular basis. Yearly in most cases. The first owner in the US had it moored for half of the year and why they applied antifoul. 

It is only active if left in the water and that is why it is no use on trailer boats that live out of water. 

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25 minutes ago, shakey55 said:

What polish and or wax did you use to get this looking so good

Got it from Supercheap. The polish was recommended to me by a boat detailer. I buy it when they have 20% -30% off store wide.

No secret it’s just labour and patience. 

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Mr Buff cutting compound and Autoglm super resin polish. 

Edited by Luvit

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33 minutes ago, Drop Bear said:

Looks beautiful. Worth the effort mate. 

Does it go faster? 

No, the difference in a high performance yatch maybe noticeable but, in a fishing boat l can’t tell. 

Coukd be the same principle as a golf ball dimples. The rougher surface breaks the friction and travel faster or it could be smooth surface travels faster. I don’t know l just drive it like normal. 

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3 minutes ago, Luvit said:

No, the difference in a high performance yatch maybe noticeable but, in a fishing boat l can’t tell. 

Coukd be the same principle as a golf ball dimples. The rougher surface breaks the friction and travel faster or it could be smooth surface travels faster. I don’t know l just drive it like normal. 

ok thanks mate.

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Hey Waz

They did a sample dry blast and a sample wet blast. The wet blast was a better result. 

They have done a great job considering it was on a trailer and had to work on it sitting down. 

Here are some photos.

l asked them to stay away from any edges and l would do them by hand. The guy made one mistake where he thought some sikaflex was anti foul and left it on there too long and blasted through the gel coat. About the size of a thumb print on the transom. Considering the Swiss cheese l made of it trying to get my transducer position right. I will repairr both at the same time. 

Soda blasting claims to not damage fibreglass. I found it leaves a rough finish but on the test section l could use some 1200 wet and dry and it smoothed it out. I expected to have to hand sand the bottom to get it smooth. It will be a lot easier now 95% of the antifoul is gone. 

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6 minutes ago, aussie123 said:

Does that transom have wood in it or are they a composite transom.

To my knowledge after 1998 they changed to a XL Greenwood ply that had a lifetime warranty on it. They still use it to this day. It not composite. The fibreglass is all hand laid. 

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You mean the area the gel coat has been broken? 

I will be sealing it with gel coat before it is properly repaired to avoid moisture ingress. I’m going to fill the drill holes with epoxy. Before installing a transom saver mounting plate for the transducers. Boat will be out of the water for a few weeks. 

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1 minute ago, aussie123 said:

No not the gel coat, the broken transom cap in the red box.

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Thanks, yes I noticed this when l was polishing it. I’m going to replace it. Think l’ll have to take the motor off to do it. 

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That cap is the biggest cause of transom failures so you need to find a solution to permanently waterproof that top edge or you will end up with rot.

You need to seal under those plastic ends to as water will get under them and in between your transom skins.

When you remove the cap have a dig around the timber with a screw driver and see if there is any soft spots.

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