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Pre-2008 Suzuki Df90-115-140 Corrosion Issues


kmcrosby78

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As alluded to, my 2003 Suzuki DF90 4-stroke motor has carked it. Turns out it had corrosion in the side plate where the engine holder exhaust port is (more on this below), which has been puttied (instead of being welded) and also, when removing the powerhead considerable corrosion was found in the engine block. Very annoying considering I've only had this motor/boat for 2 years - I bought it privately but paid an outboard mechanic to inspect it. John Eadie (who it is now with) said that the putty would have signalled to them straight away that there was an issue .......

Anyway, I'm moving on but for anyone with a pre-2008 DF90-115-140hp motor, I'd suggest you look at the below threads (there will no doubt be more, I stopped once I'd read enough as my focus now is what to put on next) as you will probably have a ticking time bomb. For those that don't want to read the links, the overview is that Suzuki used an aluminium sleeve combined with a steel (carbon steel I think) plug, which then corrodes the aluminium sleeve, makes it very hard to remove the plug and if left undetected, the heat from the exhaust burns a hole in the metal plate. Not good!!

 @Robert Allen - thought you might be interested in this (and no doubt have probably come across it?).

http://www.marineengine.com/boat-forum/showthread.php?376579-Engine-holder-problem-anyone-else/page2

http://fishwrecked.com/forum/suzuki-df90-115-140-exhaust-issue

http://fishwrecked.com/forum/suzuki-df90-115-140-exhaust-issue

Guys in USA have bought an aluminium plug that was designed to solve this problem from www.goldplug.com .

Hope this helps someone 🙂 

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42 minutes ago, Jimmyjack said:

I think this was the issue I had with my 90 Johnson 4S, (rebadged Suzie 90) but managed to catch it in time. When I took it to the outboard machanic he knew what the problem was strgaight away, and fixed it with a weld maybe? Put me off suzies TBH.

Probably is the same issue - the options when they found it were to weld it or put a new plate on (about $1300 just for the part ....) but when they then found the corrosion in the block it became insurmountable.

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As part of my research, this time into the corrosion in the block, I found a YouTube video about flushing your motor which recommended flushing for 5-7 minutes (although he went on to say he actually prefers 7-9 minutes) so that it heats up enough to open the thermostat. I'm not exactly sure how long I normally run it for, I would think somewhere around the 5-7 mins mark, but I think in future I'll be taking a bit more of a keen interest and probably just aim for 9 minutes to be safe, after all it's basically just water and time.

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  • 11 months later...
6 hours ago, Josh28 said:

Hi guys, I have found I have the issue of the corroded plug. Has anyone replaced the engine holder that the exhaust plug is in? If so, what did this cost you? Was it worth doing?

Hi Josh28 - pretty sure you have to buy the whole side plate (that includes the engine holder) and costs about $1300 just for the part and then from memory about 4-5 hours of labour. Keep us in the loop with your progress, I'd be interested to know if you are able to rectify it.

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