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Lure casting rod/reel combo


GregOug

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Hi all,

Needing to find something to do without wearing a mask today, I start reviewing and rationalising my current rod and reel collection. I am trying to get two combos for each of the following:

1. Whiting/other small irrelevants

2. Grassies/snapper shallow water

3. Reefies (Moreton Bay size)

4. Trolling for Pelagics (Moreton Bay)

5. Pelagics (sight casting - mackerel, tuna etc.)

6. Jigging for bait

I have 1, 2, 3 and 6 covered. Just need a decent lever overhead (suggestions welcomed) for number 4, which leaves no. 5.

Looking for recommendations for length, style, type of rods and reels to suit sight casting for Moreton Bay pelagics. I should mention I already have two good baitcaster reels and two small to medium size overheads which can be cast as well. They are a Shimano Bantam 50, a Shimano Chromica 100B, an Abu Garcia 6600BCX and a Shakespeare SKP 6000. If I were to use these I would obviously need a couple of good baitcaster rods to suit. Or if everyone thinks spinning reels are better, what size etc. and which rods would suit. 
 

Would appreciate any suggestions, or if it’s all too hard and makes your brain hurt, just disregard this post. 🤪

cheers

Greg

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Idk really know much about trolling but as for sight casting pelagics . I would recommend a 5000 Stradic FL matched up with a daiwa TD hyper spin rod 6-12kg you could use 300m of 20-40lb braid and that should do the job . That might be a bit expensive but idk really know you’re budget I just know pelagics are not merciful creatures and will absolutely destroy you’re reels if there bad reels . A big tuna GT mackerel or anything like that tests you’re drag it will test you’re rotor you need a strong rotor when using a reel for pelagics so it doesn’t bend and flex . It will test you’re gears if you Have small crappy zinc gears it will tear them to shreds even if you don’t horse the fish in . The stradics definitely pass these test . Hooking pelagics and getting spooled on the 1000 Stradic wasn’t a issue for me . The reel in Cooktown And the Whitsundays held up well and it definitely held up well when I was hooking fish that go for 50m runs in a couple of seconds most of the time I was losing fish to their sharp teeth to I came close to landing a few legal size mackerel after long fights but they snap the line with their teeth just as you go to land them . The GT’s just took me for 50-70m joyrides all the time before dropping the bait those were way to big to land on my setup they were props 10kg+ GT’s and at the Whitsundays I lost heaps of giants and now that I’m back home I’ve bought heavyier gear lol

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Hey Greg

I think I agree with Bro on this one. I was thinking a Stradic 5000. I know you are a mono user, but I'd imagine they'd be able to hold a fair whack of mono or braid. They're s'posed to have good drag systems, and be light and good for throwing lures all day. 

I'm pretty well clueless on a rod, but all I'd want is something that has some 'whip' to it, so you can get a better cast.

Cheers Hamish

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@GregOug

4000-8000 spin reel. 20-30 lb braid. 30-40lb mono or fluorocarbon leader joined to the braid with an FG knot. 7-8ft 6-10 or 8-15kg spin rod. Graphite or composite (graphite butt, fibreglass tip) like your live fibres. 
mate I’m pretty sure some of your existing setups will do the job. List what you’ve got and let’s try to save you some $$$

eg my tuna spin setup is my soft plastics setup - 4-7kg 7’6 rod and 5000 Shimano reel with 20lb braid  I also spin with a 7ft 8-15kg composite rod with an 8000 Shimano reel and 30lb braid  but this doubles as a do anything bait rod  

gumtree is also a great place to find lightly used gear. I’ve seen some great condition live fibres on there recently. You should be able to pick up a TLD15/20 for around $100 for your trolling reel. 

everyone is different remember to see how it feels in your hand as you will be the one casting it all day!

 

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3 hours ago, benno573 said:

I agree with @Andrew_P in so much as I am sure some of your existing set ups will do the job fine and also having rigs that can do many things.

 

i have 2 x bay set ups that can bait fish, plastic or throw slugs. They are both 7ft graphite rods, one is a 4-6kg and the other a 6-8kg. I run 15lb or 20lb braid on the lighter rod with a 4000 size reel and run 20lb or 25lb on the heavier rod, again on a 4000 size reel. These both handle quite sizeable fish and can easily launch 20g-60g slugs a country mile. They aren’t great with fishing light (<1/4oz) plastics but generally in the bay I use 1/4 or 3/8 jig heads which work perfectly.

 

I often take a lighter set up when fishing the bay too - 2-5kg rod running 10lb braid. 

 

For trolling i have a heavy baitcaster style live fibre matched up to a small overhead reel with 30lb braid. This is great for trolling for macks etc and also for a live bait or float line set up. 

Thanks @benno573. When you say a small overhead, what size do you mean? I have a TLD10 but was thinking that is too small.

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20 minutes ago, GregOug said:

Is braid fine for baitcasters or does it tangle too easily?

I suppose that it depends on the brand of braid, I haven't had too much of an Issue with the ones I use but have noticed that some braids are stiffer than others so that may contribute to some degree, also it would depend on whether or not the baitcasters level wind is fixed even when in free spool if it isn't, so after a few casts the position of line on the spool from the previous wind in may not be in line where the level wind is, and so will be on an an acute angle, and that may contribute to a bird nest. I generally use a long mono top shot over the braid on my reels anyway.

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7 minutes ago, Ed. said:

I suppose that it depends on the brand of braid, I haven't had too much of an Issue with the ones I use but have noticed that some braids are stiffer than others so that may contribute to some degree, also it would depend on whether or not the baitcasters level wind is fixed even when in free spool if it isn't, so after a few casts the position of line on the spool from the previous wind in may not be in line where the level wind is, and so will be on an an acute angle, and that may contribute to a bird nest. I generally use a long mono top shot over the braid on my reels anyway.

Thanks ED. That sounds like a good idea. You cast with the mono running through but the braid underneath gives you more line on the reel. I will try that. What knot do you use to join the two? 

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30 minutes ago, GregOug said:

Thanks @benno573. When you say a small overhead, what size do you mean? I have a TLD10 but was thinking that is too small.

Not sure that the TLD 10 is even made anymore as the TLD  series has been out for a very long time and there are much better reels out there now. If you wanted a smallish overhead which would still handle larger fish you could look at the Penn Fathom FTH25LD2 or the wider body FTH30LD2, full ally body, both 2 speed, relatively compact and with almost 15kg drags plus they have a thrust bearing,  you can buy them for about $280.

The knot I generally use is the FG.

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3 minutes ago, Ed. said:

Not sure that the TLD 10 is even made anymore as the TLD  series has been out for a very long time and there are much better reels out there now. If you wanted a smallish overhead which would still handle larger fish you could look at the Penn Fathom FTH25LD2 or the wider body FTH30LD2, full ally body, both 2 speed, relatively compact and with almost 15kg drags plus they have a thrust bearing,  you can buy them for about $280.

The knot I generally use is the FG.

Thanks for that. I’ll look at those reels. I already have the TLD10. Was just saying it’s probably too small. I could use it for one of my bottom bashing/reef rigs though?

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No problem, in the smaller sized overheads there are heaps of them available that will do the job, I personally like the Penn fathoms as they give you a lot of bang for your buck as the saying goes, go to a large tackle store and have a feel of them and other brands as well, as I have said before what suits me may not be what others like. You could pair it up with a 20Kg Ugly Stik for less than $160, heaps of grunt in the lower part of the blank and yet has a fairly sensitive tip for feeling small nibbles. Added bonus is that they are extremely robust so you would have to be doing something silly to break one and can take high sticking pretty well without damage unlike the high graphite rods.

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3 minutes ago, Ed. said:

No problem, in the smaller sized overheads there are heaps of them available that will do the job, I personally like the Penn fathoms as they give you a lot of bang for your buck as the saying goes, go to a large tackle store and have a feel of them and other brands as well, as I have said before what suits me may not be what others like. You could pair it up with a 20Kg Ugly Stik for less than $160, heaps of grunt in the lower part of the blank and yet has a fairly sensitive tip for feeling small nibbles. Added bonus is that they are extremely robust so you would have to be doing something silly to break one and can take high sticking pretty well without damage unlike the high graphite rods.

So a 20kg Ugly Stik overhead rod and a Penn Fathom reel for trolling. Is that right?

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If you wanted it purely for trolling then a rod that isn't as tippy would be better but that Ugly Stik would also give you the ability to cast  a bait or heavier jig  further from the boat, as well as bottom bashing, sort of an all round combo.

If you came up to  my area (Ningi) I could let you try out these setups (plus a few others) at my place.

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2 minutes ago, Ed. said:

If you wanted it purely for trolling then a rod that isn't as tippy would be better but that Ugly Stik would also give you the ability to cast  a bait or heavier jig  further from the boat, sort of an all round combo.

If you came up to  my area (Ningi) I could let you try out these setups (plus a few others) at my place.

Would have liked to have come up and have a look before Tuesday but that is not possible in the current lockdown. Brian (Ellicat) and I are planning to drive up the coast on Tuesday and look at gear a guy has up there. He has heaps of second hands reels, rods and everything else. Hoping to find the rods and reels I need up there. If you aren’t doing anything your welcome to come along. Also, I want this outfit purely for trolling. My boat has a large space meant for skis but I can fit quite a lot of rods in there. Although, I like to have them rigged up ready to go so too many and they start catching on each other. Hence the rationalisation of my outfits.

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Just now, GregOug said:

Would have liked to have come up and have a look before Tuesday but that is not possible in the current lockdown. Brian (Ellicat) and I are planning to drive up the coast on Tuesday and look at gear a guy has up there. He has heaps of second hands reels, rods and everything else. Hoping to find the rods and reels I need up there. If you aren’t doing anything your welcome to come along. Also, I want this outfit purely for trolling. My boat has a large space meant for skis but I can fit quite a lot of rods in there. Although, I like to have them rigged up ready to go so too many and they start catching on each other. Hence the rationalisation of my outfits.

If you did come along, we could pick you up and have a look at your gear before we head up.

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2 hours ago, GregOug said:

So a 20kg Ugly Stik overhead rod and a Penn Fathom reel for trolling. Is that right?

A rod rated 20kg for trolling inside the bay is overkill in my opinion. 10-15kg would be suitable and you could get away with 8-12kg. If you are confused about rod ratings just choose line halfway between the rod rating to be safe ie 8-12kg I would fish 10kg mono, and slightly heavier braid - maybe 15kg. This would be plenty to tackle bay mackerel, tuna and even a rogue kingy. 
Rods and reels made in the last 10 years are so good you can get away with smaller, lighter setups than you think and they are way more fun to fight fish rather than big old heavy cumbersome gear. 

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In regards to the sight casting setup, don't forget to consider lure weight range when picking your rod. For Mackerel I commonly spin slugs from 15-45gms. A lot of rods that you may consider will have a max lure range of around 30gms, especially when you start getting into lengths over 7'. When you start frantically casting heavy slugs at tuna busting the surface, you will be happy you have that extra bit of strength in the tip. My preferred rod length for doing this is around 7'6" - long enough to get a good cast, but not too long to be a hinderance in a boat.

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4 hours ago, marty said:

In regards to the sight casting setup, don't forget to consider lure weight range when picking your rod. For Mackerel I commonly spin slugs from 15-45gms. A lot of rods that you may consider will have a max lure range of around 30gms, especially when you start getting into lengths over 7'. When you start frantically casting heavy slugs at tuna busting the surface, you will be happy you have that extra bit of strength in the tip. My preferred rod length for doing this is around 7'6" - long enough to get a good cast, but not too long to be a hinderance in a boat.

Unfortunately the two rods I have picked for casting don’t have casting weights marked on them. I’ll let you know how I go. If I can get close enough to some pelagics, that is.

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  • 4 months later...

Now, I know we’ve discussed this before but I’m more motivated now after the tuna. Can I get some recommendations for a good rod and a good reel for trolling Moreton Bay please? I like the look of the Shimano Talicas but their price is up there. What size reel - a 12, 16 or 25? Two speed or single speed? I don’t want to go too large but I dont want something that won’t handle a decent fish if we get one. As for a rod, I like my Live Fibres. Any thoughts on kg rating? Any other brands?

cheers

Greg

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Greg, It sounds to me like an adjustment issue, usually if the lever stops moving well before strike position it means that the drag cam cap is screwed in too tight. Back off the lever drag to free spool (important) and unscrew the cap halfway and then push the lever up and see if it goes further to the strike drag position. If it does, then it is an adjustment issue, then you just need to adjust the lever control cap till you have the right lever drag pressure. I usually use a plastic bucket with water to set my drags. Take the reel off the rod and tie the line to the buckets handle, and ie: fill the bucket with water, 10l roughly is 10 kg. Do not adjust the drag cap unless the lever is in the free spool position as you may damage the cam mechanism.

Put drag lever to free spool, screw in the drag cap half way, push lever to strike drag and try to lift the bucket, if the spool turns and the line slips, and doesn't raise the bucket,  then repeat and tighten the drag cap more. Repeat and adjust the cap in or out till the drag pressure is right for the line class (1/3rd of the lines rating) you are using or the reels capacity. Select the amount of water in the bucket to correspond with the drag amount you want at the strike position.

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