Jump to content

Recommended Posts

hello 

Recently joined, hoping to get some thoughts on my current trailer situation.  Being fairly new to boating i went out a couple of years ago and fell in love with this Fraser formula glass boat. Compared to previous boat a Sportsman craft 5m this one is super wide with deep sides so the kids wouldnt fall out and way more room. Problem is i didnt realise the trailer was not right one for it. So its on skids not rollers - have noticed the odd gouge from where it scrapes if i dont load exactly right. Trailer actually stops short about 400mm of the transom, lastly its a bit rusted.

HAve pulled it out left boat on tyres now wondering what to do. a new trailer is @8 to 10k or i can rebuild / extend this one (maybe) but not sure how bad that rust is. though hitting with a hammer drops some off. 

Anyone built there own trailer? is it worth the effort or does it end up costing about the same. I can stick weld and have the basic gear in that respect. Am guessing its around 3k to properly do it over. Am sure there are other considerations - Is overhang actually ok?

cheers

 

 

Please login or register to view this image
Link to post
Share on other sites

Over the years, I have built several trailers for my boats and even the 8m 3.5T only cost me about $5.5K, I only reused some of the existing trailers running rollers and arms, but that was about 6 years ago. Generally you can move the boat a bit on the trailer but you have to be aware that if you move it forward or back that it will affect the weight on the towball and also the steering at highway speeds as a result.

There is a maximum % distance that you are allowed from the axles to the back of what  it is carrying, been a while so have forgotten what it is now. If the lights are too far under the boat  it may cause you problems with the police and also the long overhang will cause the end of the boat to swing out too far when turning.

Most of the cost apart from labour is in the running gear ie; axles, tyres, breaking system, suspension, rollers, etc, so if you can reuse the existing stuff you would save a lot of cash, this is assuming that those bits are still OK to use and are suitable. The actual frame shouldn't cost too much to replace, after all, a few 8m lengths of Galv. RHS or equivalent,  plus primer and paint etc would be less than $1K, this is also assuming that you can weld properly and not using a cheap  Bunnings or equivalent home handyman welder with a 10-15% duty cycle running off a 10A power supply.

Link to post
Share on other sites
2 minutes ago, Ed. said:

Had a quick look on E-Bay and found this one, don't know if it is any good or not, but it  might suit you and it is certainly cheaper than the price you mentioned.

Please login or register to view this content

He has a 5m boat so that one is way too big. A bit over 3K is what some of the the moderately priced one seem to go for new. I don't know how he arrived at 8-10K. 

Link to post
Share on other sites
7 minutes ago, bigkingie said:

He has a 5m boat so that one is way too big. A bit over 3K is what some of the the moderately priced one seem to go for new. I don't know how he arrived at 8-10K. 

I just used that one as an example just to show that a larger one would not cost as much as DanO was saying. Still it depends on how it's made too, as to whether or not he might need a larger size. Most of these on Ebay are really built to a price and he would need to take into consideration the weight rating it is made for as well, but just a replacement frame on it's own shouldn't cost him more than $1k  to build/replace.

Link to post
Share on other sites
11 minutes ago, Ed. said:

I just used that one as an example just to show that a larger one would not cost as much as DanO was saying. Still it depends on how it's made too, as to whether or not he might need a larger size. Most of these on Ebay are really built to a price and he would need to take into consideration the weight rating it is made for as well, but just a replacement frame on it's own shouldn't cost him more than $1k  to build/replace.

I got my Sales trailer in 1999 for my 5.4m boat and it's still going strong. I did replace the axles, springs and discs once. It is one of the cheaper brands. I'd guess it would be a bit over 3K for an equivalent one now. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

thanks for your replies - some clarification on dimensions

boat is a 1989 Fraser formula 626 with a pod style boat mount. this was the first of its kind apparently 

Length of boat along the ground is 6m from transom to start of bowsprit.

Over all length of 7.4m tip to prop 

The pod hangs out about another 400mm from transom with the motor still further out

The unsprung amount is about 800mm 

the total weight of boat is a guestimate for whatever a half cabin hand laid fibreglass boat would be, 180L fuel and gear - say 250kg for the 175 two stroke motor - 40kg for twin batteries. Would i be getting close to 2 ton - i thought it was over so wasnt looking at the sub 2 ton range. I never weighed the boat prior to pulling the trailer out

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, Ed. said:

Had a quick look on E-Bay and found this one, don't know if it is any good or not, but it  might suit you and it is certainly cheaper than the price you mentioned.

Please login or register to view this content

Ive been chatting with the sales guys re the over 2 ton variety, said i wanted to go north they advised me to go the 4mm steel construction - maybe not the best choice

Link to post
Share on other sites

Once you go over the 2000kg limit the price starts to climb significantly. You will need solid axles, as well as brakes on each axle including a breakaway  system as well, and yes, I would also go the 4mm SHS. As I said before, the steel component is probably the cheapest part. If you get it galvanized, that will also set you back quite a fair bit (probably $1500 plus) or you could start with galvanized SHS or I beam and then touch up with Galv paint, primer and more galv paint/epoxy, but you will not save too much due to the extra costs of the paints and extra time to coat it all so you will have to decide if it is worth going the slightly cheaper route.

That is the way I did mine but it will start to chip off after a while and you will not be able to get to the inner sections of the SHS,where the outside welding has burnt off the Zinc in the Heat Affected Zones (HAZ) on the inner SHS. Not to mention, it won't look as nice as a completely welded trailer that has gone to the Galvanizers. Some people completely seal off the SHS and then pour some oil into it. We made our comments based on a 5-5.5m boat, as yours is longer and heavier, then that is a different ball game.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Ed. 

Am hoping to find someone who may the same or similar boat and get an accurate weight on it. if it all falls under 2ton would probably head for the shops and pick up that seatrail one. Its been a task trying to find anything as Fraser sold off to over seas buyers Japan or China not sure.

Regards

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey DanO, just be aware that those sold on E-Bay are probably made cheap, it would pay to go and see one in the flesh to see it's "quality" as well as its build before you lay down your hard earned cash. Once you start looking at 2T trailers it is more important to get a good build rather than a cheap build if you know what I mean.

I have seen plenty of trailers that are professionally made (and I use that term very loosely) which I would not be happy having them under one of my hulls. As the saying goes;  "you get what you pay for".

To give you an example here is an E-Bay listing for some axles, ignore the crud / dirt on the ends but just have a close look at the actual welds themselves and if that quality is anything to go by, then what is the rest of the trailers welds like?

 

Please login or register to view this image
Link to post
Share on other sites

thanks Ed - Wow I cant believe some of those welds are considered at all satisfactory or safe etc, would have got a kick in the pants submitting similar, they must be the reject pile certainly?  Have been asking around the various boating / fishing forums and the odd boat shop looks like the Fraser is actually a sub 2 ton AGM. As you say though you get what you pay for. Was looking at a Redco trailer but lead time is Jan next year delivery. Really want to to some longer trips north and the concern that trailer will rattle apart is very real, and thats sticking to the bitumen. a 3000k round trip isnt going to be easy on a Chinese import cheapie, though maybe the more expensive ones may. 

Thanks leeroy1 - have been looking at those just a bit concerned on the hot dip it looks really different to when stuff is done here. They are Chinese, have heard some comments about them i think may not be suitable for my use but they are still a maybe. Have been comparing them with Seatrail who also import. They have the breakaway range which is quite expensive but 4mm steel, upgraded suspension etc but almost double the price - 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
8 hours ago, Dan0 said:

thanks Ed - Wow I cant believe some of those welds are considered at all satisfactory or safe etc, would have got a kick in the pants submitting similar, they must be the reject pile certainly?

 

They are being sold without warranty but either way, as it is the bracket that holds the brake calipers, you would think that they would not sell them as they are structurally unsafe. So just write them off as a tax loss deduction and just scrap them.

A few years ago I bought 2 complete axles from a well known local trailer component manufacturing company in the Brisbane area, when I did a checkup about 18mths later, I found water in the grease, so I pulled it apart and found that when they did the welding, they didn't put a sleeve over the bearing surface to protect it, so it ended up with the little ball bearing overspray on the area where the rubber seals sit, they didn't remove them and just pushed the rubber seals over it, greased it up and sold it that way without a care in the world.

Next issue was they didn't align up the caliper bracket correctly or used the wrong sized bracket before welding to the axle so the brake pads were hanging over the rotors outer edge by about 25%, so not achieving full braking capacity and wearing a big ridge in to the pads.

All I got out of them was "sorry" we will make sure it won't happen again, yeah right! That should not have happened the first time, what quality control?

Sad old state of the world where you have to check everything to make sure it is done right, that is what we pay them for. Lesson learned though! Now I check everything, and you would be surprised what I find making its way to be sold. 🤬

Link to post
Share on other sites

update on trailer situation

Have gone out and purchased a fairly decent 2017 dunbier rollered trailer at the correct length and with a healthy 2450kg rating, Has a decent electric hydraulic setup just need the vehicle controller. Should get us up and down the Qld coastline in safety for a while. Fyi, if your buying an unregistered trailer rated over a certain amount it will need a heavy vehicle inspection, this is where they measure it all up with a tape and do some other mysterious things and then your all good. Its free if you go to Pineapple St Zillmere Transport. So thats if its unregistered which this was.There main concern being modifications. Anyway all good now.

Thanks everyone for your thoughts.

new= 

 

old

Please login or register to view this image
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Previous Member
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



×
×
  • Create New...