DIY 2012 Yamaha F100 Outboard Maintenance

[Hweebe]

Going to to start a post that I will update with photos as I attempt DIY maintenance on my outboard (260hrs).

List of things in no particular order that I plan to DIY and post about. My last service was $470 in labour alone but I figure I can do most of the below.

Watch this space as it will be my first attempt on each of the below. Any hints / tips for any specific jobs appreciated.

1. Lubrication points - DONE
2. Oil Filter and Oil replacement - DONE
3. Engine Fuel Filter replacement - DONE
4. Inline Fuel Filter / water separator replacement - DONE
5. Spark Plug replacement - DONE
6. Engine Compression test - DONE
7. Gear oil replacement - DONE
8. Prop shaft lubrication / seal check - DONE
9. Gear oil seal check / test - DONE
10. Wheel Bearings replacement including Bearing buddies
11. Water pump / impeller replacement (next season/service) - DONE
12. Thermostat test - DONE - stuck thermostat - waiting part
13. Trim seal replacement - DONE
14. Steering/throttle/shift linkage / cable checks and lubrication  - DONE
15. Timing belt check  - DONE
16. Anodes check  - DONE
17. Hydraulic steering check / bleed

Things i will leave for the dealer

1. Valve clearance check
2. Pressure Control Valve check
3. Timing belt replacement

Let me know if there is anything i've missed or you would include for outboard maintenance.

Update: 8 June 2022 - Added service manual

Yamaha F100D Service Manual [en].pdf

[ellicat]

Look forward to following along.

You could add battery check/s to the list.

Do the service people run their eye over the engine's computer data to identify any issues ?

[bigkingie]

I would take the prop off, check for fishing line and re-grease. 

If the bearings look OK I would just repack them.

The hydraulic steering probably won't need bleeding unless there are signs of problems such as air in the system. Someone put up a link in another thread how to service them. This mainly involves cleaning and re-greasing the support rod on the top. 

I would check the build date of your tyres and replace them if it is older than 5 years, especially if it is a single axle trailer near the weight limit.

PS: is there something wrong with the trim and tilt for you want to be replacing the seals?

 

[Hweebe]

16 hours ago, ellicat said:

Look forward to following along.

You could add battery check/s to the list.

Do the service people run their eye over the engine's computer data to identify any issues ?

I’ve got the boat on a trickle charger and battery monitor/alarm so I’m not planning a specific battery test.

The Yamaha software and and interface cable is several $300-$400 so I’m giving this a miss. I’ve get digital gauges so if there is a major issue it should throw an alert.

[Hweebe]

14 hours ago, bigkingie said:

I would take the prop off, check for fishing line and re-grease. 

If the bearings look OK I would just repack them.

The hydraulic steering probably won't need bleeding unless there are signs of problems such as air in the system. Someone put up a link in another thread how to service them. This mainly involves cleaning and re-greasing the support rod on the top. 

I would check the build date of your tyres and replace them if it is older than 5 years, especially if it is a single axle trailer near the weight limit.

PS: is there something wrong with the trim and tilt for you want to be replacing the seals?

 

Check - added the prop removal and lube

good one - will check the steering hydraulic fluid first before deciding on bleed or not

My tyres would be well out of date, something I haven’t considered but will need to look at replacing otherwise I’m running the 30min guantlet to the boat ramp (single axle). The trailer does have a spare onboard, so I wouldn’t be stranded however there is the safety aspect to consider from a tire blowout.

Trim tilt seal is buggered as there is visible fluid leaking. Had it get stuck on me one but couple of taps with a mallet to the cylinder got it working again. Temporary workaround but I’ll need to fix so it doesn’t happen on water. I’m currently waiting on the special tool to open up the hydraulic cylinder.

 

[Junky]

 

[AUS-BNE-FISHO]

Good luck Hweebe, I'll be interested to hear how you go.

[Hweebe]

Update #1 - Parts ordered / First DIY repair

I used a site called Megazip.net - Bit of a gamble however their pricing (USD) was quite a bit cheaper (when buying multiple items then sourcing here in Australia)

Delivery was 2 weeks although shipping was expensive, I more than made up in savings from the parts pricing.

All items received were 100% OEM genuine yamaha parts so I can vouch for this website. I also called their call centre (Japanese / english speaking) and their support was great.

13. Trim seal replacement and Trim Motor rebuild / clean

I tackled this first as the engine tilt was malfunctioning intermittently / signs of leaking fluid

This was a very messy job with lots of hydraulic steering fluid spilling so photos on the phone was just too hard to do at the same time.

This guy is a legend - This was the exact same part and procedure i was working on: 

This video helped me immensely

Tips and tricks to watch out for:

• The cylinder caps were very tight / add hydraulic fluid to the mix and it was hard to get good purchase to unscrew.
• I had to bleed the cylinder quite a few times before the cylinder was full functioning / binding.
• Those bearings were very tricky to keep in place when repacking.
• Definitely do this on a bench and a vice.
• It was a bit dodge how in the video he was hooking up straight to the battery so i made a temporary fused switch as this was definitely needed to unpack / pack and bleed the trim cylinder

For my level of handiness this was a more complicated (steps) but not a difficult repair.

Whilst I had this whole unit on the bench i decided to disassemble the trim motor to clean and rebuild as i had a gut feel the trim motor may also be an issue.

This video from about 11:30mins was very helpful for rebuilding a trim motor.

 

Found lots of dirt and gunk in the trim motor which i cleaned out as per the video. Anecdotally i think the motor is now working better then before the rebuild.

So with the Trim motor and Trim cylinder rebuilt ~$50 is o-rings/seals/back up rings + $22 trim fluid + $80 cylinder tool. 

I worked on this all day but it was probably about 6hrs of actual work and probably 3hrs for someone handy.

Initial quote $500 trim motor and $1200 Trim cylinder (Parts and Labour) I've save myself close to $1500 so I'm pretty stocked at the result.

 

Edit Extras:

A symptom of a failing trim motor is if you give it light tap with a hammer/mallet while pressing trim button the trim motor starts to work again - classic tell that it needs an internal clean. I found the idea from this video. Something to keep in the back pocket if your trim moto plays up at the ramp. This may get you out of a bind

 

 

 

 

[Angry51]

Great imfo. Thanks for posting.

[Hweebe]

Update #2

Prop shaft lubrication / seal check - DONE

Water pump / impeller replacement (next season/service) - DONE

1) First up was to remove the prop. This was straightforward, cotter pin off and castle nut off. Cleaned out all the old grease around the prop shaft / shaft seal. Re-lube and re-install. Trick is to use a block of wood to chock the prop to stop it spinning so you can remove the castle nut.

TIP I also left the prop aside to reduce some weight and give me something to grab / leverage for the impellor replacement. The gear leg is a real awkward shape to carry / lift with the prop off it was much easier.

Was really glad i did this simple maintenance as found about 1m of old fishing braid would up onto the prop washer next to the shaft seal. I think I will be checking the prop more regularly for this given how easy it was to remove and reinstall. Just need to buy some spare cotter pins as this are not reuseable items

 

Next up to the drop the lower gear case to get to the impeller. For this motor this involved removing 2 nuts on each side (4 in total), 1 bolt holding the trim anode on the lower leg and another bolt hidden by that anode once removed.

TIP Use a marker to mark your anode alignment before removing - I forgot to do this but could remember my trim anode was slightly offset to the right.

For this particular motor there is this water / speed pick up tube? That should be removed before attempting to remove the lower leg. That tubing was a pain to slide back through when i went to install the leg again.

TIP Have an offsider / spare hand with you to help reinstall the leg / tube pickup. It was awkward trying to hold the weight of the leg and freeing your other hand to massage the tube through.

 

Once I got the lower leg off (few knocks with the mallet) - time to inspect the impeller.

This impeller is only about 100hrs however two years old. There were definite signs of fatigue / cracking on the impellor fins as per the photos however these were not deep cracks (maybe 1/8 of the fin thickness). I perhaps could have re-used for another season however given it is a 2 year old impeller I decided to just replace for piece of mind. I think i would be comfortable stretching a service out to 150hrs or 2.5 years and still feel safe. Given i rarely venture into any shallow / dirty water.

Rather surprisingly the impeller removal, re-gasket and, re-bolt was all relatively simple again. Just a bit of elbow grease to remove the old impeller.

The water pump replacement all comes in a kit from Yamaha with everything you need

TIP add a bit of grease to the impeller to help with initial start-up and make sure you record which direction the impeller fins are spinning as you will need to spin the impeller shaft to fit the impeller into its housing.

Reattaching the lower leg is awkward to line up the shaft / gear lever / tubing so i highly recommend a second pair of hands. Although it can definitely be done solo on smaller motors, i can see this being challenging with larger engines.

I've tackled the two more challenging maintenance items first up as i want to make sure I got them out of the way. Watch this space for the next update.

All up 2hr job - I could see a pro probably doing this in less than 1 hr. Genuine Yamaha water pump kit was $150, If done by the boat shop? Not sure what the going rate is for a water pump replacement? maybe a saving of $200 in labour?

 

 

 

 

 

[Angry51]

Very well done/explained.

Will no doubt help someone do their own work

'and save some money, I think we all need to do more

of our own work as it helps better understand what runs our boats.

Thanks for posting

[Hweebe]

3 hours ago, Angry51 said:

Very well done/explained.

Will no doubt help someone do their own work

'and save some money, I think we all need to do more

of our own work as it helps better understand what runs our boats.

Thanks for posting

Thanks @Angry51 just trying to share back and build up the community here and big plus if we can save a few dollars, cause that may mean a bit more towards time on the water with Fuel sky high at the moment. It's also been really enjoyable to get the hands dirty and work on things mechanical that I just don't get to do in my day job. 

 

[Hweebe]

Update #3 - Big weekend of more boat maintenance

1. Lubrication points - DONE
2. Oil Filter and Oil replacement - DONE
3. Engine Fuel Filter replacement - DONE
4. Inline Fuel Filter / water separator replacement - DONE
5. Spark Plug replacement - DONE
6. Engine Compression test - DONE
7. Gear oil replacement  - DONE
8. Gear oil seal check / test - DONE
9. Thermostat test - DONE - FOUND a stuck Thermostat and faulty seal - Waiting parts
10. Steering/throttle/shift linkage / cable checks and lubrication - DONE
11. Timing belt check - DONE
12. Anodes check - DONE

 

Lubrication points - This was supposed to be simple however because the old lube had hardened and i had cheaped out with a supercheap grease gun, grease leaked out of the grease gun hose instead of making its way through the unit. Trip to autobahn / new grease gun - this time with a trigger handle (much easier to direct the hose). 

TIP - Don't skimp on your grease gun or grease gun hose - and get one with a trigger which is much easier to handle.

**************

Oil Filter and Oil replacement - With the filter being in an awkward spot where you can't fit your your hand in, you will need an oil filter wrench or oil filter cap tool. Straight forward by poor design by Yamaha oil drain plug means you can't just place a tub on the floor to catch the oil as it drains and hits the lower leg and splashed everywhere.

TIP - Next time I will probably use a oil/fluid evacuator pump, instead of having to stand there holding the oil drain pan up at the drain plug. Have lots of rags on hand as the oil filter will still contain lots of oil that will leak out on removal

**************

Engine Fuel Filter replacement - Very simple and easy job. Unplug the sensor cable, twist off the Fuel filter housing and replace the filter element.

TIP - The fuel filter housing has an O-ring (which i didn't have on hand) that should be replaced at the same time if deteriorated. I missed this O-ring when i ordered the fuel filter

**************

Inline Fuel Filter / water separator replacement - The filter was a total pain to remove as over time / grease and suction made this a pain to unscrew. Due to the size of the filter and access i couldn't get a good grip of the filter to unscrew. Trip to bunnings and found a tool / wide mouthed vice grip. The alternative could have been to drive a screw driver through the filter but i didn't want leaking fuel. The water separator was reused, and with this filter all the new o-rings were supplied.

TIP - I hadn't released the water from the separator for a while - I need to do this more frequently.

**************

Spark Plug replacement and Engine Compression test - Easiest of the jobs to date. With all the spark plugs removed, check colouration across all cylinders. Consistent (good). Previous install used grease to lube. I used some anti seize to save a bit of this mess

Compression test across all cylinders revealed 210PSI +- 10 PSI - Tells me there is still plenty of life in the engine

**************************

Gear oil replacement  - Gear oil coming out showed no milky colours, still nice gear oil colour with some darker contaminants. This was also one of the simpler jobs although you need a pump to get the gear oil in.

TIP: Get a pump to squirt the fluid up to the correct level from the bottom of the gear case. The Screw plug and filler holes may be hard to undo unless you have a screw driver with a hex shaft that you can use a spanner to rotate the screw driver. A manual impact screw driver may also work.

 

Gear oil seal check / test - Didn't take photos but found the right screw fitting and pumped and check guage did not change. All clear

TIP - You need the right thread screw to hold presser and test.

*********************

Thermostat test - DONE - FOUND a stuck Thermostat and faulty seal - Waiting parts

For this engine the thermostat is at the top under the cowling plastic cover. Two screw and you are able to access the thermostat. I found the thermostat seal had perished and the thermostat stuck open. This does explain why the tell tale water temp was not heating up.

TIP - If your water tell tale is not warming up when flushing / cleaning up. This could be a stuck Thermostat

Steering/throttle/shift linkage / cable checks and lubrication - Wiped off  old grease and relubed all the linkages - Easy to spot under the cowling

Timing belt check - Rotate the large fly wheel clockwise manually and inspected the belt for wear and tear. Easy check. Should just do this whenever i have the cowling off as a quick check.

******************

Anodes check - For this particular engine there are 3 anodes on the cylinder block. There was some scaling but still plenty of anode on each one that I checked.

Tip - Grease the anode holder (bottom part in picture above) before reinstalling - Otherwise these may also corrode

[Angry51]

Job well done.

When you get the sack at your present job you

could sign on at Yamaha.

Thanks for update.

[Hweebe]

58 minutes ago, Angry51 said:

Job well done.

When you get the sack at your present job you

could sign on at Yamaha.

Thanks for update.

Hahahaha - Amazing what you can achieve with a Service Manual, some reading and a bit of youtube.

Sure beats microsoft word / excel which is what I leave in for my day job.

[AUS-BNE-FISHO]

Thanks for the informative write ups @Hweebe.

[Willosy]

Sorry for resurrecting an old thread. I'm about to embark on DIY 100HR service for my F100D. All of the old images and service manual are no longer working from this thread. Is there a way to get a hold of them?

[Hweebe]

@Willosy did you get the service done? I can probably dig around for a copy of the service manual and repost if you need it. Cheers.

[Hweebe]

Owner's Manual and Service Manual Re-uploaded.

Yamaha F100D Service Manual [en].pdf Yamaha F100DET Australia.pdf

[Willosy]

Hey Hweebe,

Thanks for that mate. I am still collecting the parts for service and searching for the manual. I'm pretty handy with tools, just needed help with lubrication points and once I get to more complicated service items.