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Fillet knives


Nastymind

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Hi Guys,

I'm buying myself a decent Svord filleting knife and need a bit of advice.

I used to work in the meatworks and learnt a little bit about sharpening, but fillet knives have different characteristics to the blades that i am used to.

Example (and my main issue): no shoulders on the blade

Can anyone tell me how to best sharpen a quality filleting knife without spending hundreds of dollars on multi texture stones and steels?

Is a cheap, 'swipe through' sharpener the way to go?

Should i buy a single soft stone and steel?

(although, then i'd be putting a shoulder on it)

Should i be putting a shoulder on it when i sharpen it?

Thanks in advance.

Michael

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werewolf wrote:

Okay, sorry for the noob question, but what is a "shoulder" on a knife, and what does the leather trick do?:dry:

The shoulder is where the flat bit of steel (the blade) has an angle to it.

That's the only way i know how to describe it.

Boning knives have it and filleting knives don't seem to (or perhaps aren't supposed to)

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Fir fishing knives just use a elcheapo drag through sharpener with hard stainless bladed knives..

When I used to be a roo shooter, I used to spend ages sharpening black steel knives properly, not worth it for fishing knives, fish bones scales etc take the edge off (read nicks and cuts) to quick to bother with a good soft knife.

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Nastymind wrote:

No.

I think 'hollow ground' is a type of manufacturing pattern of the blade.

I could be wrong, but you can tell a hollow ground blade be looking line markings on it????

hollow ground means exactly what it says. the side of the blade has a hollow ground into it these are hunting knifes designed for stabbing things. you twist the blade slightly and the hollows on either side of the blade make the suction of the flesh release and you can pull the blade out easier

blades with a pattern on/in them are damascened blades(damascus steel) the pattern is caused by the metal being heated then folded over then beaten solid again over and over. tradition has it that the more folds the the better the blades wil hold an edge.

the japanese did it with samurai swords

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I have a Furi sharpening kit that I find works ok for me. It has a drag through for the initial shaping then a coarse and a fine diamond hone blades.

I then just use a steel to keep the edge conditioned and about once a year on the fine diamond blade.

When doing sharks I have to hone more frequently.

I have never used a strop so cant comment.

Cheers

Ray

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rayke1938 wrote:

I have a Furi sharpening kit that I find works ok for me. It has a drag through for the initial shaping then a coarse and a fine diamond hone blades.

I then just use a steel to keep the edge conditioned and about once a year on the fine diamond blade.

When doing sharks I have to hone more frequently.

I have never used a strop so cant comment.

Cheers

Ray

Thanks Ray.

Some very helpful information there

Cheers,

Michael

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shortie wrote:

jeff f wrote:
works 10 times better this way

this is what barbers use for straight razors

and leather carvers use for swivel knives

Yep jeff thats how i was taught by a farmer who uses to kill his own animals to eat.

.

We just used a chainsaw,a special one though, bought new specifically for cattle slaughtering. Never had any oil in the blade oiler!

Cut it into 1/4's froze the quarters and used a band saw on the frozen meat to turn her into steaks!

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