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SuperHans

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  1. Like
    SuperHans got a reaction from Brodie_S in Poddy Mullet Trap   
    The new rig works OK! I guess you could call it a a running paternoster? 
    I wanted longer casting distance, less damage to baits (or losing them) during casting, and having the bait higher in the water column.
    The sinker is fixed at the end of the line. I have about 1 metre of line between the sinker and a fixed swivel above it. This goes some way to keeping the bait off the bottom. Above this swivel is a running dropper attached to the main line by a free moving swivel. As there is no obstruction above the fixed swivel, the bait on the running trace never gets a jolt when it slows down. In fact the fixed sinker usually travels a great distance when being cast while the running trace just floats behind and doesn't go anywhere near as far as the sinker. Initially I thought this was a problem, but the bait lands on the surface, and can cover a lot of distance and change in depth as it slowly heads towards the distant, deeper sinker. I think the sinker also goes further because it isn't hindered by the air resistance of the bait.
    Results? I have now been catching Tailor as well as flatties! I wanted to fish higher in the water column and the delay between the bait landing on the surface and its slow descent seems to achieve this. I had hoped that this rig allowed the bait to swim up and down the main line as it pleased, but without getting in the water to have a look I cant guarantee it.
    Tangles above the fixed swivel can occur if the main line is braid, but so far I haven't had that problem with mono.
    If the description of the rig isnt clear, let me know and I'll post a picture
     
  2. Like
    SuperHans got a reaction from Brodie_S in Poddy Mullet Trap   
    Hi Drop Bear,
    A sinker can be used just above the hook if you use a small bead between them. This stops the bait getting clobbered by the sinker. Having the sinker above the swivel means that the bait has to quickly accelerate to catch up with the sinker as it is cast. I think that this is why the bait is most likely to come off. I'm going to experiment with a new rig this week and will let you know how it goes 
  3. Like
    SuperHans got a reaction from AUS-BNE-FISHO in Poddy Mullet Trap   
    The new rig works OK! I guess you could call it a a running paternoster? 
    I wanted longer casting distance, less damage to baits (or losing them) during casting, and having the bait higher in the water column.
    The sinker is fixed at the end of the line. I have about 1 metre of line between the sinker and a fixed swivel above it. This goes some way to keeping the bait off the bottom. Above this swivel is a running dropper attached to the main line by a free moving swivel. As there is no obstruction above the fixed swivel, the bait on the running trace never gets a jolt when it slows down. In fact the fixed sinker usually travels a great distance when being cast while the running trace just floats behind and doesn't go anywhere near as far as the sinker. Initially I thought this was a problem, but the bait lands on the surface, and can cover a lot of distance and change in depth as it slowly heads towards the distant, deeper sinker. I think the sinker also goes further because it isn't hindered by the air resistance of the bait.
    Results? I have now been catching Tailor as well as flatties! I wanted to fish higher in the water column and the delay between the bait landing on the surface and its slow descent seems to achieve this. I had hoped that this rig allowed the bait to swim up and down the main line as it pleased, but without getting in the water to have a look I cant guarantee it.
    Tangles above the fixed swivel can occur if the main line is braid, but so far I haven't had that problem with mono.
    If the description of the rig isnt clear, let me know and I'll post a picture
     
  4. Like
    SuperHans got a reaction from Drop Bear in Poddy Mullet Trap   
    The new rig works OK! I guess you could call it a a running paternoster? 
    I wanted longer casting distance, less damage to baits (or losing them) during casting, and having the bait higher in the water column.
    The sinker is fixed at the end of the line. I have about 1 metre of line between the sinker and a fixed swivel above it. This goes some way to keeping the bait off the bottom. Above this swivel is a running dropper attached to the main line by a free moving swivel. As there is no obstruction above the fixed swivel, the bait on the running trace never gets a jolt when it slows down. In fact the fixed sinker usually travels a great distance when being cast while the running trace just floats behind and doesn't go anywhere near as far as the sinker. Initially I thought this was a problem, but the bait lands on the surface, and can cover a lot of distance and change in depth as it slowly heads towards the distant, deeper sinker. I think the sinker also goes further because it isn't hindered by the air resistance of the bait.
    Results? I have now been catching Tailor as well as flatties! I wanted to fish higher in the water column and the delay between the bait landing on the surface and its slow descent seems to achieve this. I had hoped that this rig allowed the bait to swim up and down the main line as it pleased, but without getting in the water to have a look I cant guarantee it.
    Tangles above the fixed swivel can occur if the main line is braid, but so far I haven't had that problem with mono.
    If the description of the rig isnt clear, let me know and I'll post a picture
     
  5. Thanks
    SuperHans got a reaction from ellicat in Poddy Mullet Trap   
    The new rig works OK! I guess you could call it a a running paternoster? 
    I wanted longer casting distance, less damage to baits (or losing them) during casting, and having the bait higher in the water column.
    The sinker is fixed at the end of the line. I have about 1 metre of line between the sinker and a fixed swivel above it. This goes some way to keeping the bait off the bottom. Above this swivel is a running dropper attached to the main line by a free moving swivel. As there is no obstruction above the fixed swivel, the bait on the running trace never gets a jolt when it slows down. In fact the fixed sinker usually travels a great distance when being cast while the running trace just floats behind and doesn't go anywhere near as far as the sinker. Initially I thought this was a problem, but the bait lands on the surface, and can cover a lot of distance and change in depth as it slowly heads towards the distant, deeper sinker. I think the sinker also goes further because it isn't hindered by the air resistance of the bait.
    Results? I have now been catching Tailor as well as flatties! I wanted to fish higher in the water column and the delay between the bait landing on the surface and its slow descent seems to achieve this. I had hoped that this rig allowed the bait to swim up and down the main line as it pleased, but without getting in the water to have a look I cant guarantee it.
    Tangles above the fixed swivel can occur if the main line is braid, but so far I haven't had that problem with mono.
    If the description of the rig isnt clear, let me know and I'll post a picture
     
  6. Like
    SuperHans got a reaction from ellicat in Freezing Yabbies Aka Nippers   
    Lol. Yes they go mushy, but this method really toughened them up. Just wish I could recall the details
  7. Like
    SuperHans got a reaction from AFO in Freezing Yabbies Aka Nippers   
    In the 1970s/1980s I remember SEQ TV in QLD had a weekly fishing show with Stan Tappenden ? called Hook Line + Sinker.
    One really good bit of advice was how to freeze yabbies so that they didn't go mushy when thawed.
    All I remember was that the process involved putting them cold water and salty water before boiling them. I've forgotten the details, but remember them being really tough, bright red and excellent bait after thawing.
    Does anyone recall how this is done?
  8. Like
    SuperHans got a reaction from Drop Bear in Black Fly Larvae   
    Maybe they have an unpleasant smell for fish if they just ignore them. I would try injuring some before putting them in the water to see if their blood interests the fish
  9. Like
    SuperHans got a reaction from Drop Bear in Black Fly Larvae   
    I remember reading about a bloke who hung a snapper head in a branch which overhung a creek. The flies bred and maggots dropped regularly into the water. He went back a week later and used maggots and caught a haul of bream I think-it was a long time ago.
  10. Like
    SuperHans got a reaction from Drop Bear in Black Fly Larvae   
  11. Like
    SuperHans got a reaction from Drop Bear in Poddy Mullet Trap   
    Hi Drop Bear,
    A sinker can be used just above the hook if you use a small bead between them. This stops the bait getting clobbered by the sinker. Having the sinker above the swivel means that the bait has to quickly accelerate to catch up with the sinker as it is cast. I think that this is why the bait is most likely to come off. I'm going to experiment with a new rig this week and will let you know how it goes 
  12. Like
    SuperHans got a reaction from Kat in Poddy Mullet Trap   
    This is my first ever post and I hope it helps someone. I'm in nsw so cast nets are illegal here. After watching videos, searching fishing forums and a lot of trial and error I have a trap that works best for me. 
    Initial problems I encountered were:
    1. Plastic bottle was too bouyant and needed sinkers to hold it down.
    2.Other species (especially toadfish) filled the traps and scared off the poddies.
    3. Poddies ate the burley but didn't enter the trap via the top hole.
    So, my fix is a glass trap made from a large Moccona coffee jar which sinks and stays put.
    I stick the plastic part of the lid onto the mouth of the jar and make 4 inward flaps in it with diagonal cuts. (Glue doesn't work well, instead I use Selleys Roof & Gutter sealant.) The glass part of the lid is not used.
    Unlike plastic, the glass jar doesn't get scratches or become opaque.
    I avoid other species like toads by setting the trap in water that is less salty (mullet tolerate fresh water while toads don't). eg coastal lagoons that are not open to the sea or upstream in creeks feeding into the sea
    I used to sit the trap upright but I find that the trap works much better if it lies on its side. The mullet see the bread and circle the trap until they find the entrance. For some reason they didn't enter from the top when it was upright.
    I dont burley. I set the trap where I have seen mullet. They will find the trap if they are there. Water depth is usually knee deep. I put about 20 x 1cm square pieces of white bread in the trap and hold my hand over the entrance to stop bread escaping while I remove any bubbles.
    This trap isn't perfect but it works better for me than the others I have tried.
    One problem is that to remove the poddies, you need to upend the trap while bending a flap or two in the opposite direction. Its a minor inconvenience. This also puts stress on the sealant holding the plastic flap lid in place. It needs resealing occasionally. One the sealant has set I always give the trap a thorough flush before use.
    NSW regulations require a max entry diameter of 6cm so ensure the cuts in the plastic lid comply. Also a floating ID label. I printed a label and sealed it with a laminator.
    The only time I now fail is trying to trap them at night.  Has anyone had success trapping poddies at night?
    Also does anyone have advice on using poddies in the surf? The lighter they are pinned (eg thru the lips/jaw) the longer they live but its difficult to get good casting distance without risking them coming off. Also a sinker that doesn't run up to the hook also tends to reduce distance and increase the risk of the lightly pinned bait coming off. This sort of limits me to fishing for bottom fish like flatties, but I would like to cast further out and fish higher in the water for other species too.  A recommended rig diagram and hook placement advice for casting/upper water fishing appreciated.
     
     
     
     
     

  13. Like
    SuperHans got a reaction from ellicat in Poddy Mullet Trap   
    Hi Drop Bear,
    A sinker can be used just above the hook if you use a small bead between them. This stops the bait getting clobbered by the sinker. Having the sinker above the swivel means that the bait has to quickly accelerate to catch up with the sinker as it is cast. I think that this is why the bait is most likely to come off. I'm going to experiment with a new rig this week and will let you know how it goes 
  14. Like
    SuperHans got a reaction from Brodie_S in Poddy Mullet Trap   
    This is my first ever post and I hope it helps someone. I'm in nsw so cast nets are illegal here. After watching videos, searching fishing forums and a lot of trial and error I have a trap that works best for me. 
    Initial problems I encountered were:
    1. Plastic bottle was too bouyant and needed sinkers to hold it down.
    2.Other species (especially toadfish) filled the traps and scared off the poddies.
    3. Poddies ate the burley but didn't enter the trap via the top hole.
    So, my fix is a glass trap made from a large Moccona coffee jar which sinks and stays put.
    I stick the plastic part of the lid onto the mouth of the jar and make 4 inward flaps in it with diagonal cuts. (Glue doesn't work well, instead I use Selleys Roof & Gutter sealant.) The glass part of the lid is not used.
    Unlike plastic, the glass jar doesn't get scratches or become opaque.
    I avoid other species like toads by setting the trap in water that is less salty (mullet tolerate fresh water while toads don't). eg coastal lagoons that are not open to the sea or upstream in creeks feeding into the sea
    I used to sit the trap upright but I find that the trap works much better if it lies on its side. The mullet see the bread and circle the trap until they find the entrance. For some reason they didn't enter from the top when it was upright.
    I dont burley. I set the trap where I have seen mullet. They will find the trap if they are there. Water depth is usually knee deep. I put about 20 x 1cm square pieces of white bread in the trap and hold my hand over the entrance to stop bread escaping while I remove any bubbles.
    This trap isn't perfect but it works better for me than the others I have tried.
    One problem is that to remove the poddies, you need to upend the trap while bending a flap or two in the opposite direction. Its a minor inconvenience. This also puts stress on the sealant holding the plastic flap lid in place. It needs resealing occasionally. One the sealant has set I always give the trap a thorough flush before use.
    NSW regulations require a max entry diameter of 6cm so ensure the cuts in the plastic lid comply. Also a floating ID label. I printed a label and sealed it with a laminator.
    The only time I now fail is trying to trap them at night.  Has anyone had success trapping poddies at night?
    Also does anyone have advice on using poddies in the surf? The lighter they are pinned (eg thru the lips/jaw) the longer they live but its difficult to get good casting distance without risking them coming off. Also a sinker that doesn't run up to the hook also tends to reduce distance and increase the risk of the lightly pinned bait coming off. This sort of limits me to fishing for bottom fish like flatties, but I would like to cast further out and fish higher in the water for other species too.  A recommended rig diagram and hook placement advice for casting/upper water fishing appreciated.
     
     
     
     
     

  15. Like
    SuperHans got a reaction from Old Scaley in Poddy Mullet Trap   
    This is my first ever post and I hope it helps someone. I'm in nsw so cast nets are illegal here. After watching videos, searching fishing forums and a lot of trial and error I have a trap that works best for me. 
    Initial problems I encountered were:
    1. Plastic bottle was too bouyant and needed sinkers to hold it down.
    2.Other species (especially toadfish) filled the traps and scared off the poddies.
    3. Poddies ate the burley but didn't enter the trap via the top hole.
    So, my fix is a glass trap made from a large Moccona coffee jar which sinks and stays put.
    I stick the plastic part of the lid onto the mouth of the jar and make 4 inward flaps in it with diagonal cuts. (Glue doesn't work well, instead I use Selleys Roof & Gutter sealant.) The glass part of the lid is not used.
    Unlike plastic, the glass jar doesn't get scratches or become opaque.
    I avoid other species like toads by setting the trap in water that is less salty (mullet tolerate fresh water while toads don't). eg coastal lagoons that are not open to the sea or upstream in creeks feeding into the sea
    I used to sit the trap upright but I find that the trap works much better if it lies on its side. The mullet see the bread and circle the trap until they find the entrance. For some reason they didn't enter from the top when it was upright.
    I dont burley. I set the trap where I have seen mullet. They will find the trap if they are there. Water depth is usually knee deep. I put about 20 x 1cm square pieces of white bread in the trap and hold my hand over the entrance to stop bread escaping while I remove any bubbles.
    This trap isn't perfect but it works better for me than the others I have tried.
    One problem is that to remove the poddies, you need to upend the trap while bending a flap or two in the opposite direction. Its a minor inconvenience. This also puts stress on the sealant holding the plastic flap lid in place. It needs resealing occasionally. One the sealant has set I always give the trap a thorough flush before use.
    NSW regulations require a max entry diameter of 6cm so ensure the cuts in the plastic lid comply. Also a floating ID label. I printed a label and sealed it with a laminator.
    The only time I now fail is trying to trap them at night.  Has anyone had success trapping poddies at night?
    Also does anyone have advice on using poddies in the surf? The lighter they are pinned (eg thru the lips/jaw) the longer they live but its difficult to get good casting distance without risking them coming off. Also a sinker that doesn't run up to the hook also tends to reduce distance and increase the risk of the lightly pinned bait coming off. This sort of limits me to fishing for bottom fish like flatties, but I would like to cast further out and fish higher in the water for other species too.  A recommended rig diagram and hook placement advice for casting/upper water fishing appreciated.
     
     
     
     
     

  16. Like
    SuperHans got a reaction from Drop Bear in Poddy Mullet Trap   
    This is my first ever post and I hope it helps someone. I'm in nsw so cast nets are illegal here. After watching videos, searching fishing forums and a lot of trial and error I have a trap that works best for me. 
    Initial problems I encountered were:
    1. Plastic bottle was too bouyant and needed sinkers to hold it down.
    2.Other species (especially toadfish) filled the traps and scared off the poddies.
    3. Poddies ate the burley but didn't enter the trap via the top hole.
    So, my fix is a glass trap made from a large Moccona coffee jar which sinks and stays put.
    I stick the plastic part of the lid onto the mouth of the jar and make 4 inward flaps in it with diagonal cuts. (Glue doesn't work well, instead I use Selleys Roof & Gutter sealant.) The glass part of the lid is not used.
    Unlike plastic, the glass jar doesn't get scratches or become opaque.
    I avoid other species like toads by setting the trap in water that is less salty (mullet tolerate fresh water while toads don't). eg coastal lagoons that are not open to the sea or upstream in creeks feeding into the sea
    I used to sit the trap upright but I find that the trap works much better if it lies on its side. The mullet see the bread and circle the trap until they find the entrance. For some reason they didn't enter from the top when it was upright.
    I dont burley. I set the trap where I have seen mullet. They will find the trap if they are there. Water depth is usually knee deep. I put about 20 x 1cm square pieces of white bread in the trap and hold my hand over the entrance to stop bread escaping while I remove any bubbles.
    This trap isn't perfect but it works better for me than the others I have tried.
    One problem is that to remove the poddies, you need to upend the trap while bending a flap or two in the opposite direction. Its a minor inconvenience. This also puts stress on the sealant holding the plastic flap lid in place. It needs resealing occasionally. One the sealant has set I always give the trap a thorough flush before use.
    NSW regulations require a max entry diameter of 6cm so ensure the cuts in the plastic lid comply. Also a floating ID label. I printed a label and sealed it with a laminator.
    The only time I now fail is trying to trap them at night.  Has anyone had success trapping poddies at night?
    Also does anyone have advice on using poddies in the surf? The lighter they are pinned (eg thru the lips/jaw) the longer they live but its difficult to get good casting distance without risking them coming off. Also a sinker that doesn't run up to the hook also tends to reduce distance and increase the risk of the lightly pinned bait coming off. This sort of limits me to fishing for bottom fish like flatties, but I would like to cast further out and fish higher in the water for other species too.  A recommended rig diagram and hook placement advice for casting/upper water fishing appreciated.
     
     
     
     
     

  17. Like
    SuperHans got a reaction from ellicat in Poddy Mullet Trap   
    This is my first ever post and I hope it helps someone. I'm in nsw so cast nets are illegal here. After watching videos, searching fishing forums and a lot of trial and error I have a trap that works best for me. 
    Initial problems I encountered were:
    1. Plastic bottle was too bouyant and needed sinkers to hold it down.
    2.Other species (especially toadfish) filled the traps and scared off the poddies.
    3. Poddies ate the burley but didn't enter the trap via the top hole.
    So, my fix is a glass trap made from a large Moccona coffee jar which sinks and stays put.
    I stick the plastic part of the lid onto the mouth of the jar and make 4 inward flaps in it with diagonal cuts. (Glue doesn't work well, instead I use Selleys Roof & Gutter sealant.) The glass part of the lid is not used.
    Unlike plastic, the glass jar doesn't get scratches or become opaque.
    I avoid other species like toads by setting the trap in water that is less salty (mullet tolerate fresh water while toads don't). eg coastal lagoons that are not open to the sea or upstream in creeks feeding into the sea
    I used to sit the trap upright but I find that the trap works much better if it lies on its side. The mullet see the bread and circle the trap until they find the entrance. For some reason they didn't enter from the top when it was upright.
    I dont burley. I set the trap where I have seen mullet. They will find the trap if they are there. Water depth is usually knee deep. I put about 20 x 1cm square pieces of white bread in the trap and hold my hand over the entrance to stop bread escaping while I remove any bubbles.
    This trap isn't perfect but it works better for me than the others I have tried.
    One problem is that to remove the poddies, you need to upend the trap while bending a flap or two in the opposite direction. Its a minor inconvenience. This also puts stress on the sealant holding the plastic flap lid in place. It needs resealing occasionally. One the sealant has set I always give the trap a thorough flush before use.
    NSW regulations require a max entry diameter of 6cm so ensure the cuts in the plastic lid comply. Also a floating ID label. I printed a label and sealed it with a laminator.
    The only time I now fail is trying to trap them at night.  Has anyone had success trapping poddies at night?
    Also does anyone have advice on using poddies in the surf? The lighter they are pinned (eg thru the lips/jaw) the longer they live but its difficult to get good casting distance without risking them coming off. Also a sinker that doesn't run up to the hook also tends to reduce distance and increase the risk of the lightly pinned bait coming off. This sort of limits me to fishing for bottom fish like flatties, but I would like to cast further out and fish higher in the water for other species too.  A recommended rig diagram and hook placement advice for casting/upper water fishing appreciated.
     
     
     
     
     

  18. Like
    SuperHans got a reaction from AUS-BNE-FISHO in Poddy Mullet Trap   
    This is my first ever post and I hope it helps someone. I'm in nsw so cast nets are illegal here. After watching videos, searching fishing forums and a lot of trial and error I have a trap that works best for me. 
    Initial problems I encountered were:
    1. Plastic bottle was too bouyant and needed sinkers to hold it down.
    2.Other species (especially toadfish) filled the traps and scared off the poddies.
    3. Poddies ate the burley but didn't enter the trap via the top hole.
    So, my fix is a glass trap made from a large Moccona coffee jar which sinks and stays put.
    I stick the plastic part of the lid onto the mouth of the jar and make 4 inward flaps in it with diagonal cuts. (Glue doesn't work well, instead I use Selleys Roof & Gutter sealant.) The glass part of the lid is not used.
    Unlike plastic, the glass jar doesn't get scratches or become opaque.
    I avoid other species like toads by setting the trap in water that is less salty (mullet tolerate fresh water while toads don't). eg coastal lagoons that are not open to the sea or upstream in creeks feeding into the sea
    I used to sit the trap upright but I find that the trap works much better if it lies on its side. The mullet see the bread and circle the trap until they find the entrance. For some reason they didn't enter from the top when it was upright.
    I dont burley. I set the trap where I have seen mullet. They will find the trap if they are there. Water depth is usually knee deep. I put about 20 x 1cm square pieces of white bread in the trap and hold my hand over the entrance to stop bread escaping while I remove any bubbles.
    This trap isn't perfect but it works better for me than the others I have tried.
    One problem is that to remove the poddies, you need to upend the trap while bending a flap or two in the opposite direction. Its a minor inconvenience. This also puts stress on the sealant holding the plastic flap lid in place. It needs resealing occasionally. One the sealant has set I always give the trap a thorough flush before use.
    NSW regulations require a max entry diameter of 6cm so ensure the cuts in the plastic lid comply. Also a floating ID label. I printed a label and sealed it with a laminator.
    The only time I now fail is trying to trap them at night.  Has anyone had success trapping poddies at night?
    Also does anyone have advice on using poddies in the surf? The lighter they are pinned (eg thru the lips/jaw) the longer they live but its difficult to get good casting distance without risking them coming off. Also a sinker that doesn't run up to the hook also tends to reduce distance and increase the risk of the lightly pinned bait coming off. This sort of limits me to fishing for bottom fish like flatties, but I would like to cast further out and fish higher in the water for other species too.  A recommended rig diagram and hook placement advice for casting/upper water fishing appreciated.
     
     
     
     
     

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