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Hi guys , Am interested to hear , if anyone here , has or still uses old fishing rods , the solid fibreglass type , and old side cast reels ,? There my favourite type of fishing rods , and the sort I grew up with and used on the Edward river , love to see what everyone has in the vintage type rods , or am I the only one who still thinks there great ,

I'm wanting to find the name for a 3 piece Jarvis Walker rod circa 1975 ish, It is solid black fibreglass rod and came in 3 sections. Once piece was a reversible handle with cork grips. The idea was the shortest glass section connected in one end to form a very short boat rod or the two glass pieces connected together and connected into the other end of the handle assembly. It needed the reversible handle to do this as it needed two different sizes for the glass pieces depending on how it was used. I don't have the rod with me right now but I think it was about 7-8ft in length maximum. Anyone know the model name of this rod? I've looked around but can't see it on the Internet anywhere. Is there a Jarvis Walker online fishing rod museum anywhere?

Found this on FB. Pretty cool. https://www.facebook.com/watch/?v=697209870452921

Hi Folks, Currently sorting out some fishing gear that's been in storage for a while. I've got quite a few spools of line (not reel spools but the spools the line comes on when you buy them). What's the best way to tie these off so that the line doesn't unravel? Cheers, Chris

Hi Folks, Just got back from Lakes Entrance. Was fortunate to fish Bunga Beach and managed to land a nice salmon. I'm currently using a Butterworth surf rod (15ft I think) with an Abu 7000C overhead reel. The combination work well however there's one problem - lots of crabs at Bunga that constantly steal the bait. I was talking to a local who was using a shorter, lighter surf rod (around 9-10ft) with a lure. The rod was a lot thinner and "whippier" than mine. Just wondering what people would recommend for using with my 7000C in the surf with lures? I'm thinking of something around 9-10ft. Cheers, Chris

reckon i can drive one handed but how do i mount a rod on one of these? will be able to sell it to clive Churchill when i am finished

For a long time now I have been wanting to build my own deep drop electric fishing reel as I am sick and tired of rebuilding the standard off the shelf electric reels. A few months ago I decided to just get in and do it and so far I am very happy with the results. There is no roller bearings in this reel as they always seem to rust and seize up and there is no drag washers to burn out or go lumpy. The drag system is electronic and should just about last forever. Each part of the reel is modular and runs its own circuitry so in the event of a failure, I can quickly change out any damaged parts, even when out on the boat. All I need to finish now is the mounting frame to fit it in the boat, get the switch panel face plate made and spool it up with 1000m x 400lb braid. So far nearly everything has been drawn to CAD so I can make some more once this one has been fully tested to its limits. If all goes well, I am hoping to take it out to the deep water in about 2-3 weeks time and give it a hard flogging before I make a second one.

Ever wondered what exactly is a flasher rig or snapper rig? Are they just for snapper? Are they like a lure? Do you need bait with them? The most accurate way to describe a flasher rig is, simply, it is the best of both worlds of lure and bait fishing. Lures work by utilizing color, shape and movement that attracts fish to bite them. Bait, on the other hand, attract fish by smell and enticing them to their favorite snack. The same happens with flasher hooks. They move with the current to mimic bait fish and the color spectrum. Better Tackles flasher rigs are designed to mimic the hatch coloring your target species is currently feeding on. But unlike a lure, adding bait throws in a whole new level of sensory overload to your fishing. On top of color, movement, and shape, the smell of bait attracts fish to your rig swallowing your hook and fighting into your waiting net for your next PB. Originally designed for reef fishing, flasher rigs are not a new concept. Around 50 years ago, some experienced fisho’s used to make a similar style of hooks called wog heads or wogs (it was a different time, before political correctness) and were used to target reef fish and mackerel. These days we know that they work in almost all saltwater conditions and not just for snapper or reef fish. While you can catch pelagic fish like tuna and mackerel on them, we also have other styles of fishing rigs to target these species. We have personally tested flasher rigs from the beach, the rocks, jetties, estuaries and reefs and we guarantee these rigs will increase your hook-ups compared to just bait alone. Use them just like you would a normal bait rig. You can use these flasher rigs for any style of fishing you would normally use for bait. Just like lure fishing, matching the hatch your target species currently feeds on is important. Through testing, we found that two contrasting colors work best but keep in mind how deep and dirty the water you are fishing in as many colors will fade the deeper you drop. Most flasher rigs are found in paternoster or dropper rigs but we have found they work just as well on most fishing rig set-ups and will be bringing out more ranges to reflect this. We were originally going to call ourselves Lazy Man Lures before deciding on Better Tackle as we specialize in pre-made flasher rigs. We also branched out into other specialties of fishing rigs and gear. We are the original Rapid Release Rig winding board innovators that many competitors now use to wind on their rigs. Fathers day is coming up and to thank you for all the support here is 20% off. https://bettertackle.com/discount/FathersDay until monday the 26th as it takes about 5 days to get gear to you via mail and we want this in your hands by Fathers day. Tight lines guys and a huge shout out to Australian fishing admins and members. You all ready know what a great community this is so keep up the awesome job. This article can also be found at https://bettertackle.com/blogs/faq/what-are-flasher-rigs

Went past carseldine tackle shop today and she’s all but empty, I thought it was tied in that that mob at Sandgate? Must admit it was pretty run down last time I was in there, used to be a great lil shop to stop in and have a chat.

Just not getting the use it needs, I tend to stick to the spinning reels.Purchased 6 months a go on special for $420, willing to part with it to a good home for $300.It has only seen fresh water about 3 times. Google it they are a magic reel. No more wind knots,overruns,tangles etc. Dino

Looking to get back into some fishing again and decided to throw some coin at a new rig to start back up again. I'm pretty set on the Penn Battle II 4000 reel as it's the perfect bang for buck for what I'll be using it for. I'm a little unsure about the rod though; I'm heavily leaning towards an Ugly Stik but not sure which one out of these two. the 6'6" one or the 7' one. Also, the 7' one is only a 1-piece rod compared to the 6'6" which is 4 piece, not sure whether this matters or not? https://www.tackledirect.com/shakespeare-ussp702ul-ugly-stik-gx2-spinning-rod.html https://www.tackledirect.com/shakespeare-ussp664m-ugly-stik-gx2-pack-rod-spinning.html Or are there any alternative rods around the same price that you guys might recommend with this reel? For line, it looks as though I'll be using this unless advised otherwise. 30lb/0,14mm/300 yards, or should I drop back to 20lb/0.14mm/300 yards? https://www.amazon.com.au/gp/product/B07KF9HQPP/ref=crt_ewc_title_dp_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A4XRJ8S0WXSO0 Thanks so much in advance.

Howdy, After searching for a decent way to store the rods and being very disappointed with whats available commercially, i thought i would give it a go to make myself. It was very easy once you have the rough idea what you want. Turned out pretty good, Total cost to make was $47

So I've recently been trout fishing a few times, and I liked it, very different from the Saltwater fishing I'm used to, I'll use lures/soft plastics, It'll be mostly high country Victoria and Tasmania so a two piece is prefered, I was thinking maybe a good lightweight rod/reel would let me hike around the high country with it, although I'll probably drive most of the time. what do you guys suggest, a budget for the rod and reel is around the $1-1.2k mark I think, but depends on what you guys suggest.

After some negotiation with the owner of Gobblers Lures, my wife and I have purchased the small business. We will be taking it over in early July and manufacturing from home. (Just in time for me to make a few lures for the Kimberly trip coming up in end of July). It will take a few months to find our feet and then hopefully we can start making some small changes to improve the Gobbler experience. Predominantly my Julie will be manufacturing the lures while I be doing marketing, development etc. I'm sure there will a special for AFO members when we are sorted. This is why I have been quite on the forum for a little while.

Big Shout out to Adam at Castwide in Sydney's Arnecliffe who replaced a new Blackwater Egi stick snapped at the butt that went on to catch 5 good sized Arrows on first outing last night inside an hour.Adam has the best prices we've found on Yamashita squid jigs-check him out

Hi guys i would like to know where a good place in brisbane to fish is.

Hey All, Looking to put together a combo I can use for stickbaits and poppers on the reefs just off Yeppoon. We do an annual trip there for 2 weeks a year, but I also want to be able to use the rod through the year for various applications around Moreton. Thinking a Demon Blood V2 792 XH and pairing it with a Saltiga 15 5000H. This would give me a rod I could throw medium to large stick baits on and still fish for Tuna, Mackies and Snapper on (maybe a bit heavy but could do it). The reel would be light enough (though still powerful) to use around Moreton but is it too light for Yeppoon (do I need to go to the Expedition 6500?) Most GT's you might hit up that way are 10-15kgs so while I recognize I might be light for a 20-30kg pelagic I am not overly concerned about that. Guess what I am asking is for some confirmation this combo will cover both my needs or any feedback on why it won't and what you might recommend instead

I emailed Jarvis Waker this question, person answered but was not able to provide an adequate answer. Does anyone have an empty 12, 15, 25 Lb spool of Jarvis Walker Bulk line as sold by BigW and can tell me what the empty dispenser weight is in grams measured on digital kitchen scales to gram resolution? Reason I ask is so I can calculate line used/remaining before trying to fill empty reel spools to know if enough remains. I will also be able to calculate the amount of line on each reel. I have recorded the original full dispenser weight of the line so this can be calculated.

As some may be aware I have been a Gobblers lure sponsored angler for last few years however, I resigned on Friday. I'll still be a customer of Gobblers Lures and continue to use them because they are a great lure in my book.

Reproduced from latest fishing world. Fish facts: Is barbless best? By Dr Ben Diggles | 8 April 2019 Comments 0 Comments image: http://yaffa-cdn.s3.amazonaws.com/fishing/images/dmImage/StandardImage/Injury 3 550.jpg Barbless hooks are safer for both fish and anglers. MOST anglers have heard about barbless hooks in various writings in the fishing press from time to time, but when you ask around its surprising how few anglers have actually had any practical experience using them. For those who are not familiar with what I am talking about, I am referring to the process of manually removing the barb from a fishing hook for a particular purpose. This is done to smaller fine wire hooks by crushing (or crimping) the barb down with pliers, which in todays modern high tensile chemically sharpened hooks usually results in a quick “snap” as the offending appendage is removed. In the past most hook patterns had relatively large “ski jump” barbs which we know in hindsight reduced hook penetration quite a bit. Even as recently as 25 years or so ago, all top anglers knew that part of the art of serious fishing was honing ones ability to develop sufficient dexterity with a file or sharpening stone to sharpen the hook point so that it would meet the time honoured criteria of grabbing onto a fingernail, rather than sliding off (thus being more suited to holding in the hard bony mouth of a large fish). Furthermore, back in the day many insightful anglers went even further, spending extra time to reprofile the barb to reduce its size and/or add cutting edges in order to improve hook penetration. With the hook technology available at the time, such attention to detail could make all the difference when chasing large hard mouthed jumping gamefish such as marlin. Interestingly, when the reduced barb approach was also adapted to other more mundane species, it worked a treat, and many switched on anglers found they could eliminate the barb completely and not experience a drop in catch rates. Today, familiarity with this sort of detail is no longer required due to the modern engineering applied to the almost ubiquitous fine wire chemically sharpened hooks, which also possess much reduced barbs to aid hook penetration. These advances in technology have in turn bred a whole generation of anglers who do not need to regularly sharpen their hooks and therefore who may also be less likely to think deeply about the barb vs barbless subject. Barbless hooks provide obvious improvements for angler safety. If you are fishing in remote locations that may be many hours or even days travel from medical treatment, the decision to make all your hooks barbless should be seriously considered. This can save a lot of trouble, pain and even a lost fishing trip if someone in your group is unfortunate enough to hook themselves up with a barbed hook. Barbless hooks embedded in a finger, hand, arm or leg will come out easily the way they went in, with minimum trauma allowing the angler to continue on without major issue (keep those tetanus jabs up to date though…). However, with almost any sized barb, you are forced to either (a) push the hook through the impaled appendage (so that the barb can be accessed and crushed down or the hook cut off at the gape), or if pushing the hook through is not possible (b) seek medical attention, or (c) utilise a friend to help try to pull the hook out the way it went in (usually achieved using some fishing line tied to the gape of the hook). The latter process risks causing significant damage depending on the size of the barb involved and the skill of your friend. Of course, there are other reasons why barbless hooks are worth consideration. They are better for fish. There are several scenarios (breakoffs and biteoffs being the main ones, deep hooking while using bait is another) which may see you leaving a hook in a fish. Recent studies of lure shedding in various fish species (including northern pike in Europe) have found that fish shed the vast majority of lures over the first 2 days, and nearly all lures within 2 weeks of a breakoff, but that lures with barbless hooks are shed much faster, maximising survival rates. We all know that all undersized fish must be returned to the water as soon as possible, and research has consistently found that if you can’t quickly get the hook out, survival of released fish is much higher when the line is cut close to the hook rather than damaging the fish and increasing its air exposure time by conducting surgery on it. Hooks are cheap and should be considered as disposable items in such circumstances. Studies conducted in the Caribbean on bonefish, in the USA on bluegill and by NSW Fisheries on yellowfin bream have found that around 50% of ingested hooks are usually shed within 2 weeks, and over 70% by 6 weeks. In all cases, if a released fish can shed an ingested hook, their survival chances are higher, and in all of these studies, ingested barbless hooks were dislodged much more often and much faster than barbed designs, leading to improved survival rates. It seems at least some of this is due to the fact that barbless hooks corroded up to 9 times faster than unmodified hooks (due to the loss of the barb), however other factors that influence hook corrosion rates inside fish included the hook material (i.e. wire material, diameter, and coating), the position of the hook in the digestive system, and whether the fish was in freshwater or saltwater. Such information suggests that if you are leaving hooks in fish, avoid stainless hook varieties as these will not corrode, and will tend to stay in place for longer. So for these various reasons barbless hooks are the default situation for me. Barbless is better for me, and better for the fish. I make it a general rule of removing the barbs from every hook I use, especially when fishing catch and release, and I leave the barbs on only if there is a specific need for it - which usually involves jumping pelagic fish like marlin, or specifically targeting fish which I will kill anyway for a feed. So barbless is best for me. What about you ? Read more at http://www.fishingworld.com.au/news/fish-facts-is-barbless-best?utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Newsletter+-+8419&utm_content=Newsletter+-+8419+CID_6f6e21d1264792db5647b3ecd843b4a9&utm_source=Email+marketing+software&utm_term=barbless+hooks#8GGpSSGSlU3AP3cU.99

Hi, I am new here. Are there anyone have any information on this Daiwa Phantom Surf Rod? So far I only manage to gather this information. Is this rod available in Australia? Thank you. SIZE 450-SD 15 Feet SIZE 480-SD 16 Feet X45 BRAIDING X HVF – HIGH VOLUME FIBER GRAPHITE BLANK FUJI O-RING GUIDE FUJI REEL SEAT SHRINK RUBBER BLANK PROTECTION PREVENTS SCRATCHING AND WEAR RING 7 CAST WT 150 – 250 g LINE 20 – 50 LB MADE IN VIETNAM

Hi I have read around a bit on this and another forum looking for a rod and reel combo for fishing on holidays. It will mostly be used in East Gippsland around Paynesville area for land based fishing of Flathead and Bream. Kids would like to do a little fishing on our summer holidays, I thought why not get something so I can join in as well. I haven't had a chance to fish since I was a kid. May also have the use of a kayak for fishing as well. My ideal rod would be 7ft /2.13m 2-5kg travel rod paired with 2500 reel as a decent allrounder. I would prefer a travel rod as driving to holiday destinations with a wife and two kids in a 2 door hatchback doesn't leave a lot of room, also means I can pack the rod and reel when visiting the grandparents in Tassie when we fly. My choices have also been limited by looking for something that is tough and can take some abuse. In all likely hood a pure graphite rod is going to get too many bumps and fail pretty quickly when trying to fish with two youngish children. Ugly Stik Rods seem to have a reputation of surviving some rougher treatment. I am a realistic parent as I'm sure the fishing rod will be used as a light sabre as soon as my back is turned . As with all things in life it will be a compromise solution, otherwise I would just buy a Shimano Raider Travel Rod or a Pfluger Transcendent travel rod. With the Ugly Stik been a bit tougher I may be able to get away with a two piece rod and manage to squeeze this into the roof pod on top of the car. When the kids get older and a bit more responsible then I can look to upgrade the gear if we all still enjoy fishing together. I'm looking at the following: SHAKESPEARE UGLY STIK GOLD Travel Rod 6'6''/195cm, 3-6kg line weight, 4 piece Action : Light/Medium - price around AUD $100 SHAKESPEARE UGLY STIK GOLD Spin Rod 7'0' / 210cm , 2-4kg line weight, 2 piece Action : Light - price around AUD $80 Could either of these rods be used with soft plastics or will these be just bait only rods? Would these be usable for my intended use of land based fishing with maybe some kayak fishing as well. ? If anyone has used either of these and has some feedback on them in use it would be fantastic. Thank You all for helping a novice out in advance. Regards The Spook.

Hi, Is there any different between the OLD Sensor Surf IZM comparing the the NEW Sensor Surf (2018)? The only thing i can see different is the shrink tube different pattern. Thanks.

Hi just enquiring if anyone has upgraded the handle knob on there stradic c14, (3000, 4000) just wanting to know what is a direct replacement and where to get them from thanks.

I’m looking for Rhino Stik’s!! I know they don’t make them anymore, but maybe someone has a few just sitting there!! Will pay 3 times what there worth!!!