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_Sloth_

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  1. It also looks like they put new panel pieces on either side because I can't see screw holes for those chrome pieces. They probably would have got Tim to cut those with the CNC router...
  2. I don't think they would fit. I have the 7 inch HDS Live in my dash and I can barely get the cover on and off (I leave it off) because of those chrome things. The only advantage they could have is providing visibility by shading the gauges. But I think they look bulky and a bit gaudy. I think your dash looks mint with the 9 inch and without those chrome things.
  3. LOL! Nice additions. I notice you don't have the big chrome things around the mercury gauges that I have on mine. Wondering if they removed those to fit the sounder or if they were never there? I think it looks much neater the way you have it.
  4. Conservatively I'd reckon each one of those sprays would be a cup of water. A hundred of those is 25L which would be in the ball park. A bit extra over the back and perhaps some sneaking past the bungs would explain it then I reckon.
  5. Interesting. Did it rain overnight? If so that is one source of additional water. The bilge pump should be wired independently of the isolation switch. It is usually the only item on the boat that does not go through the isolator so it should come on whenever required. I think I'd get that wiring changed if you are going to leave her in the water overnight. We sent a 30ft flybridge cruiser to the bottom of Sydney Harbour while she was on her mooring because of this...lesson learned the hard way. On the upside she was salvaged with two big mud crabs on board! I often have a fair bit of water in the hull after a day on the water. Some comes over the back and some over the front as spray and some comes in with swimmers. It can add up fairly quickly - but I am also suspicious that a bit gets in around the bungs too. Perhaps check the rubber rings on those. If you did take enough water to cause the bilge pump to come on then it would only pump it out just to the point that the float switch goes off. Any additional water would then trigger the float switch so you wouldn't have needed much water to come on board the second day to cause the bilge pump to run again. S
  6. Hi Greg Is the 9 inch screen in? If so can you post pic? I'm interested see how it fits in the dash. Also got a pic of the anchor installation? S PS mine still getting Minn Kota sorted. batteries and charger in now just need custom mount to hold the motor.
  7. I chose the ulterra 80lb 24V with 72 inch shaft. This one has gps, spot lock, cruise control and auto deploy. The cost of the motor is around 4.5K. Similar motor without the auto deploy (terrova) will set you back around 3.5K. There are cheaper options through motorguide and watersnake. The cost for fitting is not yet known. For a boat with a ready made motor mount it would probably be a couple of hundred dollars for wiring and labor plus the cost of batteries (say 400) plus another sum for battery chargers. In my case I need a custom bracket made. Either glass or stainless. I am expecting it to be expensive. That said every cent is worth it to equip your boat with one of these babies. I had the terrova on my last boat. Similar capabilities but not auto deploy. I can never go without now. There are so many advantages for fishing. Still pricing glass vs stainless and trying to work out which option will look better although neither will look good aesthetically. Will let you know when I know more...
  8. Really nice mods Rusty. I really like rod holder set up. Was thinking about something similar but yours is heaps better than what I had envisaged. Mine is getting fitted with a minn kota at the moment. Trying to work out whether to get a custom stainless bracket or fibreglass to mount it on. Was thinking stainless but looks like glass will allow better mounting position Will post some photos when it’s done - which could be a few weeks because all the fabricators and glassers are flat out... im also going to get a quote to alter the floor around the drivers and passengers footwell to improve comfort while standing. And an esky in the rear walkway hatch now that I have moved the battery. Will let you know feasability and cost once I get a quote if you’re interested. The other mod I’m planning is some low profile rails around the gunwales to mount rod holders etc but looks like you’ve got that covered. Who did the door in the console?
  9. That's awesome. Just put it on my list of things to do! Also I started a thread for SS64 mods to try to get them all collated in one place. We should move the conversation to there - what do you reckon?
  10. Hi Drop Bear, I have always had them fitted by the dealer but I can give you some info. For a tinnie I would go with the Quintrex Catch and release. You add a hook to the front where the tow eye is and the rest is added to the trailer. See For a glass boat I would use the L and R system (which is what I have) See the video here https://www.boatlatch.com Both can be retrofitted. With respect to the trailer - some trailers are designed specifically as drive on others - not. That said it is almost always possible to make a drive on trailer our of any trailer. Might need to add some bunks/rollers etc to help guide the boat which has to go on exactly the same way every time if the latch is going to work. "All About Trailer Repairs" at Beerburrum did some work on a mate of mine's trailer to improve drive on/off and I believe he is happy. They (or someone similar) should be able to advise on what your trailer needs. I have no affiliation to any of these businesses - just providing them as examples. Hope that helps John
  11. Hi All, Thought I would start a new thread for SS64 pros, cons, mods, refinements etc. There is lots of great info on modifications and refinements for these boats on several different threads and I thought it would be good to start to collate them in one place. Not exclusive though - will be great to hear from others about mods they have done too. S
  12. Similar to my original location. I moved mine to the dicky seat compartment but I think the cover is a good idea too. Thinking about a cover for mine too just to protect from water when washing the boat etc. did you put that pad in the recess for the ladder? Good idea. What did you use?
  13. Yikes! The throttle must be touchy with the 17. Yeah it’s great having the 21 degree hull in the chop but the sharp angle exacerbates chine walking. Need a lot of skill and nerve to steer against back and forth safely. Bass boats and ski boats generally have a flatter rear and so not as susceptible. I tried trimming down a bit more than normal but at high speed this just creates a new set of safety issues. Let me know what you decide with the 17. It would be good just for the purpose of putting the engine through its paces.
  14. Nice. I’m going to put some holes like that too. I had same issue with that panel in the back. I put some pieces of starboard in the corners to raise it 12mm to get it off the fuel. The supplied esky no longer fits but I use that space for my tackle bag. Also have an extinguisher and epirb mounted under there. I put the esky in the walkway. Fits nice there and I can stand on it and fish when the boat is loaded with people and space is at a premium...
  15. Sorry Willi - haven't recorded any exact figures. Early on I worked out the approximate range when running between 45 and 60 kph (about 2900 to 3500 rpm from memory) you will get about 2km per litre so around 400 kms total range with 200 L fuel. I tend to drive lots of short distances to set drifts so a lot of getting on plane which uses a bit more fuel but the engine does it so easy the fuel figures are still good. I think you will be pleasantly surprised. You'd thing a 4.6 L V8 would chew the gas but they are amazingly fuel efficient. 200 hp will be identical to 225 except at the very top end where the 225 should (in theory) get a few kph more but it makes no difference because you can't drive those speeds in any conditions I encounter...I just bought the 225 because I always get the max horsepower but in this case I wasted my money... Tim will probably fit a 19P 4 blade revolution prop. This gives incredible hole shot and acceleration. It's a really good prop for this boat-motor combination. In theory you might lose a couple of kph at top speed compared to a 3-blade but as I said above - it won't matter. If you were doing a lot of rough water work you could get a bit better ride by using a 3 blade prop in a design that gives a bit of extra slip. Then the prop won't drive the boat so forcefully into the waves but I prefer the 4 blade for most of the stuff I do. Be careful the first time you drive it near the ramp. Throttle is very touchy. I also fitted a launch and release system for driving on and off. Very glad I did. The boat goes on and off easy as and I can do it solo no problems in any conditions. Highly recommend this. S
  16. Thanks Drop Bear. Not sure about full throttle. Never had it wound out! I'm not a good enough driver - chine walking starts at about 85 kph. I know it does 90 at around 5000 RPM but that is where my nerve and my skill level both run out...
  17. Hi Greg, I posted a couple of photos. You can see where the floor is raised under the drivers and passenger pedestal seats in my boat. I would prefer it flat. If yours is flat through there then I guess Tim listened to feedback about that and changed it. I’ll probably get that altered at some stage. I strongly recommend moving the battery from under that hatch in the rear deck. It is a serious design flaw. No battery compartment should have salt water rushing over the top of the hatch door no matter how good the seals. Mine was actually supplied to me with no rubber seal at all - see photo - which I had rectified straight away. One wash of salt over the back and I would have had a burnt out battery and been stranded in a brand new boat, possibly one fire. With the seal there is little or no ingress of water but rubber seals don’t last forever and you can be sure it won’t give way at the ramp. You’ll be out at one if the FADs off Moreton when it goes and it’s a long tow back from there. Even with dual batteries - salt on one will likely cause a burnout of the other as well as the computer in the engine...it is much safer under the dicky seat or put both in the ski locker. I personally want to keep the ski ocker clear because I use it from my rods. i can keep 10 rods up to 7 and a 1/2 feet long in there which is tops. My wife doesn’t know how many rods I have because I can swap them out of the locker I think a live well is ideal for the rear hatch. It can be used as a wet locker or even an esky too. I don’t use bait so for me it would be mainly used to put fish in between landing and photos as well as to drop in squid. On the occasions when I forget the ice (happens a bit I am afraid) it will also provide a way to keep the catch fresh. In any case - I am a serial boat customiser - probably why I never have any money for anything else. I usually spend a few years perfecting my set-up before selling the boat (usually at a large loss) and starting all over again... Cheers, S
  18. Hi Rusty. Thanks mate. Can you be more specific about the holes? Mine had holes inside the storage compartments in the console but they were blocked with gunk. I was about to drill some when I realised. I’ve thought about doing the same on the step too. Also in those little sections next to the driver and passenger seats that seem to serve no real purpose but to hold water. Did you put holes there too? I forgot to mention one other slight annoyance of mine - there is a pretty strong fuel smell around the vent at all times and also in the hull. Never seen evidence of loose fuel when removing bungs or anything but even with the boat in the driveway I can often smell fuel in the house (the front door is a few metres from the boat. Do you find the same thing? Cheers, S
  19. Hi Willi, I looked at both boats before I bought the SS64. I wrote an essay for you and thought I posted it but looks like something went wrong... I'll try again. Both boats are excellent. The 620BR has the SVDH hull which is one of the best around and rides very softly. The SS64 hull is longer and wider but not as soft-riding as the 620BR. It goes well in Moreton bay but you will need to drive to conditions as always when the wind picks up. Some guy sledged me at the ramp for taking a "ski boat" in the bay - told me to stick to the rivers. It was pretty rough that day. He got a 10 minute start on me but I must have passed him in the middle of the bay because he arrived at the beacons after me and he looked wet and uncomfortable. That said, it is important to realise you won't be smashing your way comfortably at 30 knots in all bay conditions. You will have to slow down at times but both of these hulls can handle pretty much anything in the bay if you drive them appropriately. The SS64 layout is far superior for fishing. I can fish 5 from mine very comfortably - casting lures. Two off the back, two off the front (I have a removable casting deck) and one in the cockpit. The construction method for the SS64 is more modern and uses no wood and has ocean grip flooring for easy cleaning and maintenance. The 620 uses wood in the construction which makes for a nice riding boat but can lead to problems if there is water ingress. Also the flooring is not as versatile. They use carpet and if you want sea-deck, they cut out the carpet sections and put the sea-dek in so you have a mix of carpet up the walls and in the ski-locker and sea-deck on the floor. It is still nice underfoot but I hate carpet in a boat. It stinks and it stays wet and makes it hard to clean the boat. The SS64 shines in this regard. Neither hull is great for big game fishing. The SS64 is particularly unsuited because you can't reverse hard into chop without taking water over the back through the walkway. This could be rectified easily with a removable panel across the walkway. For general bay, inshore, estuary and river fishing the SS64 is excellent. It doesn't look like a fishing boat on the trailer but it works well in the water. I am adding some rails and handles to mine for Ram rod holders etc. It is currently being fitted with a minn Kota Ultra which should make it a fishing weapon... The engine. Haines Signature are the dealers for Suzuki so most of the Haines dealers want to put a Suzuki on the boat. That's fine they are great motors. Most of the Stej dealers do Mercury. Now - I have always had Yamaha - but I put the Mercury 225 HP Pro XS on my SS64 and I can honestly say this is the single best bit of kit of any kind I have ever owned. You can't describe the grunt this engine has. You need to experience it. Everyone that comes on my boat is blown away by the acceleration - not just off the mark but if you punch the throttle at 80 kph you get pushed back in the seat. It also sounds good, although it is hard to be stealthy hence the minn Kota installation. At 60 kph mine is doing around 3200 rpm (i.e. motor barely working). I use the same fuel as on my old 5 m tinny with a 75 HP 4 stroke engine but getting everywhere in half the time. I looked at the 620BR and the SS64 and I am sure I made the right decision for me. I use mine primarily in the bay and in estuaries and sometimes offshore. It's great for fishing in these conditions and my wife loves the boat too. She nearly always comes for the ride - lazing up front while I fish down the back and with one or two other couples on board, it is still comfortable. A couple of things I don't like about the SS64. The battery compartment is on the back deck which gets pretty wet. This is a design flaw as water can run around the seal and on to the battery. I moved the battery forward under the dicky seat behind the driver. I am going to install a custom live well under the rear hatch where the battery was. The floor should have been made flat rather than with all the funky raised sections. It is hard to stand and drive because there is not much floor space behind the wheel. I am thinking of getting that modified a bit so it is more comfy for standing while driving. Happy to answer any other questions you might have. Cheers S
  20. Hey Greg, Is that Garmin an additional unit? I think you said you had a Lowrance? How are you fitting the 9 inch into the dash? Or is it on a mount? S
  21. Noice. I have had mine for about 2 months now. First glass boat - Have always had tinnies. I sold a 5 m Stacer Crossfire and bought the SS64. Overall I am pretty happy. It rides OK in the bay (thought it might handle the short bay chop a bit better given the 21 degree deadrise). It hit's harder than the crossfire which has an awesome hull for a tinny. Have had a few quality control problems I need to get sorted...screws missing/falling out, cracked gel coat near foot well due to glass rubbing on glass, and a couple of other irritating things. I also got a Mercury V8. The engine is tops. Very happy with it. I'm going to get a trolling motor fitted (need to get some custom glass or stainless for that) and also put a removable casting deck up front. Overall - pretty happy. The rear deck is great for casting lures...The black hull and sides suit me because I like squid and the ink is not showing up on boat... Cheers, John
  22. Hello All, I am a new member from north side of Brisbane. I regularly fish in bay, the Bribie passage, around Moreton Island, Redcliffe, Scarborough, Woody Point, The Pine as well as waters around Elliott Heads. Looking forward to trading fishing and boating tips. TS
  23. Hi Mate, Just wondering if you ended up getting the SS64? The reason I ask is that I have one too ... was wondering how it is working out for you? You made any mods for fishing etc?
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