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dhess

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Posts posted by dhess

  1. I have sashimi'd plenty of them and they are quite nice, but like Angus said not as nice as YFT or longtails.

    The key is bleed and when you fillet cut all of the red meaty stuff away. With any fish you are preparing for sashimi always cut the slices against the grain of the flesh as it is all about texture. Having a proper sashimi knife that is razor sharp and parts the flesh as you cut makes a big difference. The cuts should be a glide rather than a sawing motion. Especially with soft fleshed fish.

  2. With regards to Penn Spinfishers the older series has a legendary reputation for being near indestrucatble. The newer spinfishers that cost $99 and are made in China have been getting less than stella (haha terrible pun) reviews. I haven't used either. Just being a keyboard fisherman. :blush:

    Too funny Shane. Small world.

    For popping I use the saltiga maverick on a FCL labo popping rod.

    Unfortunately jig rods are completely useless as popping rods and vice versa. The monster mesh has held up ok so far jigging but am yet to give it a proper workout. I am a bit worried as I have heard reports about the older black coloured series randomly exploding. Probably need to get another saltiga with lower gear ratio's as a jig reel as the 6500H makes it hard work cranking up from the depths.

  3. I only have very limited popping experience, but from what I have learned there is no such thing as cheap yet effective popping gear.

    Firstly you need a strong reel with strong drag and fast retrieve gear ratio.

    Reel: At a bare minimum I would look at a Daiwa Saltist 6500 or a Shimano Saragosa or similar. Either will be around $280. Anything less is likely to get bent or completely destroyed on the first few fish.

    Rod: As a minimum a shimano Tcurve GT special or a Daiwa monster mesh popping rod. Around $250-$300.

    Line: Around $100

    Total ~$650

    Disclaimer: I may be wrong and it would be awesome to see something reasonably cheap that works.

    Popping is very physically demanding and anything less than what I have listed just won't cast a lure or bloop a lure well, and will have you completely shagged after a few minutes.

    A more typical $2000+ combo will be way easier to cast and fish for any period of time than the options I have listed.

    I ended up taking the plunge and buying a highish end combo but unfortunately haven't had many opportunities to you use it.

    My time will come this coming summer though. :evil:

  4. what a terrific thread,

    i have a trip with (bargy) from fraser guided fishing next weekend. A mate of mine (who has caught quite a few in hervey bay) gave me a few proven plastics to use. I thought i might add them along with the examples that plastic fantastic has shared. (thanks mate)

    [attachment=48282]035.JPG[/attachment]

    The jig heads are 5/8 ounce with a heavy guage hook.

    cant wait to get onto my first tuna.

    Are those snapbacks?

  5. Excellent write up. I have only caught a few but things I have learned:

    1. They can show up anywhere and I mean anywhere not just closer to shore. I have caught longtails on livies fished right on the bottom (heavy patternoster) 30kms off Fraser Island. Have also heard of several reports of them being caught well into Pumicestone Passage.

    2. If you are short on plastics or slugs but have a spare livie use it. Just lob it straight into the action and it will likely get smashed.

    3. When winter westerlies have well and truly set in, longtails feed in really close to bribie. Just reiterating the whole feeding into the wind or current thing. Have heard it is possible to catch them off the beach with a bit of luck.

    Hey Andrew,

    Have you had any longtail encounters on popper?

  6. I find belting the races out easy enough. Probably take only one minute each if you work them side to side. Probably quicker then getting the welder out and packing it away.

    All you need is a steel rod or heavy guage pipe around 15-20mm in diametter and about a foot long. If you can get hold of a piece of brass even better but mild steel is fine. Using hardened steel can be very dangerous as hardened steel on hardened steel can splinter and fling shrapnel.

    Having a couple of solid blocks of hardwood to rest the hubs on is very handy also. As is a nylon hammer or any other dead blow type hammer.

  7. Great report and great pics mate!! enjoyed the read B) in pic 8 at the end of the mat one maybe two of the trout must have come close to being under size? remember with a spear you can select before shooting, i would be shooting the bigger ones like you did and not risk shooting possible legals ;):)

    Fair enough call. At least one of the redthroat is undersized as well.

  8. Dilute hydrochloric acid (around 20 to 1) won't harm the hull providing its washed off in a reasonable amount of time. It should still soften the barnacles as their shells are made of calcium carbonate which is very prone to acid attack. If you had a vat of vinegar you could just dip the thing and they would all disolve.

    Probably your best bet is to hit it with a hard core pressure cleaner. An ordinary domestic one probably won't be powerful enough.

  9. Completely agree with you Gazza. Peopple like that are the scum of the earth. I exactly know the kind of tight arsed pieces of sh!t you are talking about. Used to have a few friends (no longer friends) like that in the past who are happy to make them selves scarce at the bowser and hope that you don't mention chipping in for anything. :angry:

    I expect all of my crew go in equal including cleaning up. I spend a lot of time the day before prepping things and pre tying rigs for everyone and I am the one who ends up driving at sparrows farts while they are asleep in the car.

    A typical trip for me is:

    car towing fuel - $30

    bait - $30

    2 stroke oil - $20

    boat fuel - $140

    ice - $10

    So $70 each between 3. If someone whinges about cost or questions it being correct its the last time they come out with me. I tell them to go buy their own boat, take the depreciation hit, pay 2 sets of rego, insurance, servicing, keeping safety gear up to date that go with it. Or tell them to pay $200 plus for a charter on a cattle truck full of drunken line tangling d!ckheads where they probably won't catch a thing. :angry:

    If someone is struggling a bit financially or is a student or something I cut them some slack though. I think they should still be able to enjoy coming out for a fish. B)

  10. shortie wrote:

    mine is a 5.2 mtr boat. Is on a braked trailer. Need aprox 6.7 mtrs for trailer to fit in the yard. trailer is rated to 1200kg. I think any boat longer just about needs to be on a tandem axle trailer.

    My current trailer has mechanical brakes not electric.

    The falcon will tow any of the boats you mentioned. No name tows his haines with a falcon.

    Only downfall is on a slippery ramp you may have troubles pulling her up.

    It's calculated by weight not length as my boat is 5.6m and on single axle trailer.

    I have seen some of the new trailers have draw bars which fold away to the side to make them shorter. I am sure it wouldn't be too hard to modify a trailer to do this. This way you could have a boat almost as long as your garage.

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