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mangajack

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Posts posted by mangajack

  1. One wrap of masking tape in the bottom of the spool negates the use of mono starter to avoid slipping.

    I just trim masking tape down to about 6mm wide and nest it in the bottom of the spool at almost but not quite 1 turn.

    Tie a small loop in the end of the braid and feed the mainline back through the loop, do two turns around the spool and cinch it up. If done the correct way the line cinches tight to the spool, if wrong it does not tighten, flip it over and it will tighten. This method avoids any bulky knots in the base of the spool.

  2. I use old braid for under shots on reels not needing large capacity.

    When I swap out braids I keep the bottom braid that is in good condition for under shots.

    I am not a fan of mono as an undershot because if you are getting close to an undershot on a big fish the braid can bury deeply into the mono backing when heavy pressure is applied....this does not happen with braid backing in my experience.

    I also use a nikko pen to blacken the first couple of metres of the top shot just for a visual indicator when playing a fish....back the drag a tad when it appears to preserve the joiner knot.

  3. Why would you limit your searching to inflatables?

    Most small inflatables do not have positive bouyancy if the tube is ruptured.

    The tubes degrade with age whether they are used or not....quite expensive to replace.

    Lots of sharp things about when fishing too.

    If you want a small boat for a first boat I suggest looking for a Polycraft Tuff Tender boat....indestructable and a really good small fishing boat.

    They are available 2nd hand for about 4k boat motor and trailer....

  4. 5 hours ago, Peter K said:

    Many thanks Mangajack, in relation to your rating system, would you know anything about Daiwa Jbraid x8 expedition for number 3,4 and 6 from your list?

    Cheers,
    Peter

    Diawa Jbraid is decent braid, i have come close to buying it before.

    Spin or baitcaster?

     

  5. I rate braids characteristics in the following importance:

    1. is it a fused braid line? least desirable

    2. is it a coated line? prefer uncoated.

    3. is the line truly limp and memory free?

    4. is thin for breaking strain....Siglon PEX8 and Tasline All white are my two long term favorite braids.

    5. is it white or orange.

    6. Does the PE rating on the box also include actual test breaking strain? If not I do not buy it.

    For me the PE system for braid is crap you can get the same PE rating across multiple brands and versions and have wildly different breaking strains.

    Casting diameters mean bugger all if your bait does not have enough weight or is too much weight for the rod that you are using.

  6. usually it is polyethylene.....grades vary greatly.

    UHMWPE is a high end version of this.....you do not need that high a quality plastic.

    Holland Plastics, PM Plastics, Nerang Plastics all will have what you are looking for.

    A google search will give you dozens of suppliers near you.

  7. About 12 years ago i caught my first legal nanny off Redcliffe, there had been small models about for about 5 years before that that I know of. I have since caught 3 more legals and maybe around 10 undersized models.

    They are definitely becoming more common. My decky caught one at Clara Rocks in February...undersized but still surprising.

  8. I agree with Neil, different spots at different stages of the tide....

    Incoming look for feeding banks about to get a few inches of water on them....they will be feeding hard there for about 30 minutes. Keep following the flooding banks as the water rises. You want to cast into about 6 inches of water roughly.

    Once the bites have tapered off you need to find where they will wait for food to come to them....look for a sand bank that tapers down to the river bank along the river.....you can bet a years wages they will sit there until the top of the tide vacuuming up all the worms and small crabs and yabbies dislodged by the sand bank being disturbed.  You really should recon the river towards the last of the run out tide to learn where this high tide spot will be. Ideally the sand bank should be at least 1/2 the river wide and taper down to the bank on one side only on the upstream end.....the fish will be over the last 15 metres of that bank guaranteed. Google Earth Pro shows these sand banks quite well too....another way to plan your run.

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