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Junky last won the day on October 9 2019

Junky had the most liked content!

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About Junky

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    Advanced Member

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  • Fishing Types
    Offshore and Reef Fishing


  • Boat Type
    Motor Boat

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  1. If you spot fish then the sounder has done its job. It is not going to tell you which direction they are travelling. That is why it is called fishing....not catching. Once you know the fish are there.. or around the area.....cast, burley, bait the crap out of it. It can take me sometimes 2hrs before I drop a line. I'll sound around till I get what I am looking for.....and after a while you'll be able to tell what fish are giving the returns. I can tell what most returns are just by the image on the screen. Snapps pearlies and reds have a very identifiable return. That takes a while to get the gist of though but with time you will learn.
  2. 200 kHz is for shallow water. Up to 100m or thereabouts. It pings quicker than 77khz. By ping I mean the clicking of the transducer...similar to dolphins clicking when they're sounding for food. An easier way to look at it is 200khz pings every half a second......77khz will ping every second and a half. That's why your picture looks faded on 77khz compared to 200khz. The information is just not coming back as quick as the 200khz is. That is why it is more for deep water. You can hear the pings if you pour some water over a glass table top and sit the transducer in it. Power up the unit and listen to the clicking. The transducer sends out a click/ping. It then waits for that ping to go down, hit the objects and return to the transducer. Solids will return quicker...softer surfaces will absorb some of the ping. That's how it determines the density of the object and relays it into the coresponding color. Red is hard....yellow soft etc. Sounders without chirp will only read 1 ping at a time. Chirp reads every ping all the time....hence the clearer picture. The sounder is processing so much more info with chirp. Splitting your screen and running the frequencies separate is not really going to help you. Running them together will because the sounder area is increased with the 77khz cone. If chirp is functioning then it will say it on the bottom of the screen around the kHz etc. Chirp is worth it imo. If you split your screen, try the full view on one side and zoomed view on the other. I set my zoom at about 10m and leave the depth range on auto. It will then follow the bottom in a zoomed view and the full screen view will pick up anything higher up in the water. Generally do this in depths greater than 25m otherwise just leave the full screen view. There is also bottom lock. Bottom lock will leave the ocean floor flat meaning it wont drop down and come up on the screen as the depth changes. It just has a flat return and all reefs etc will rise off the flat bottom. Handy for picking up fish inside reefs etc.
  3. Down scan is a waste of time when looking for fish IMO. I prefer the traditional view for all structure and fish sounding activities. This can take me over an hr when I go out. Like you say...no point fishing a deserted spot. If you find a strange return that may resemble a wreck or something then yes switch to downscan for a better picture but for general sounding I find the traditional is the go. Can't help with settings as I do not use that brand but I'll pass on what I would do. From a guess you have 2 frequencies. 200khz is a 20deg cone and 50khz/80khz is a 60deg cone.....or thereabouts. 200khz is for shallow water with more pings. 50khz is for deeper water with fewer pings. Want to hear the pings? Pour water onto a flat sheet of glass, dining table works well. Power up the unit and plug the transducer in. Sit the transducer in the water on the glass. It will tick away (this is how to test a transducer if you think it is not working). Now set it to 50khz. Pings should be noticeably less. I would try them both frequencies together, then try 200 on its own. The gain should have an Auto setting. If the screen is still cluttered when set on auto then dial it back manually. You only need to go back enough until the screen clutter disappears. It's a fine line but you should have a clear screen with good returns of fish and structure. LEAVE FISH ID OFF. Do not use this. This function will not decipher between junk in the water and fish. All you get is a screen full of little fish pictures. A piece of weed or plastic bag will throw a different return than a fish. So leave the fish ID off. Cheers.
  4. Redbait....maybe.
  5. Not a problem at all. I had one mounted in the weather in my old boat. It was the echomap 90 (no chirp). Other than that it was the same unit. You'll love the garmin.
  6. Yeah mate. For when sounding while you're on the move. It's how I find all my good spots. You would be able to get one of those hook 9s for a k. Echomap 9 in the garmin is a touch more.
  7. Get the biggest screen you can imo. It may be a 7 inch screen but it's only a 3.5 inch GPS and fishfinder.
  8. Well done. That is a great catch. I remember a vid of you last year catching them off the beach. What a rush. Cheers.
  9. Cut old stubbie coolers down to width and slide over the spool. Do it for all my leader and spare spools.
  10. FISHHH. Was that really 6lb line? Champion effort. I did hear 30lb towards the end but maybe that was the leader.
  11. That was awesome. I did not realise hammer heads get that big.
  12. Snapper are like flys at the moment. Anywhere from 20m out to the shelf. Good pearlies around the 60m to 80m line. Pillies are the preferred bait rigged on a float line setup. Plenty of good ground out there. Heaps of starter marks on the net. Get a few close to where you're heading and put in some time just sounding around.
  13. Junky

    Stay Safe

    Stupid boys. Look, I can say "I hope they're okay" however with the time frame you sorta have to face the inevitable. Currents, winds etc just on the first night would create a several hundred square klm search area let alone this far along. Hats off the all of the search crews as well. Tiring relentless job. I'm guilty of these shananigans myself in my younger years. Yes it is bloody stupid....but it's fun at the time. Unfortunately these fellas most likely have paid the ultimate price. I will say though that with the conditions on saturday we would have stayed well south of where they were and definitely wearing our jackets.
  14. That unit will do the trick. In the creeks etc you may choose to use the sidescan but offshore it is not really worth it imo. I don't use downview either unless I want a clear picture of the structure. Fish returns are hard to pick up in deeper water. Stick to the traditional sonar. Some people like the white background but I prefer the blue for visual enhancement. In deeper water than 20m I split the screen with bottom lock or zoomed view. Make the depth range for bottom lock/zoom approx 10m. This will give you a clearer picture of what you're fishing and the fish returns are a lot clearer around the structure. Head out around Humpy and sound around.
  15. You have marks for wonky holes? Keep that quiet....although I'm happy to review them. I live in Brisbane so no chance of me fishing there, often. Like DB said...you should be slaughtering the fish. Rigs. Float lining on the drift is imo the best way to fish because I hate pulling anchors in and plastics work better on the drift. Also....you'd be surprised how many (honey pots) or good spots you will find when drifting. Check the sounder every 30sec or so when drifting. I tie about a rod length of leader onto the end of my braid using the FG knot. That then gets a running sinker on it (sinker size depends on drift speed, current) and a swivel tied on. Then about half to a meter of the same leader tied on and a hook or gang of your choice. Make sure the sinker isn't a heavy bomb. You want it to sink to the bottom but not bomb down. Dont stop letting line out either. Occasionally you can lock the spool but only for a short time. I do the same with plastics. Light as possible but still getting down there. Drift speed can play a big part too. Up there it gets windy. Wind against tide is a @#$% to fish in. There are parachutes designed for fishing that will hold you in the current better and stop the wind blowing you around. This then allows your bait to get down and present better. What sounder have you got? Get a good sounder with 500kw+ traditional chirp transducer. Learn to use it and actually sound up the fish before you drop. If I'm in a new area I will drive around till I start sounding fish, sometimes this may take more than an hr. Split the screen so you have full depth on one split and either bottom lock or zoomed mode on the other split. In 50m of water you won't see much on full view but the zoomed view will show good returns. However full view may pick up a bait school or fish returns outside of your zoomed in view. I always have full view showing just in case. If you haven't got a good GPS with all the contours then don't fear. Try this Chart. All you need right there. How wide do you head out? I have friends up that way (rosslyn) and they stay at Humpy Is. all the time. He cleans up on trout, nannys etc not far off the island. Believe me, I get the photos as proof. Exactly where I have no idea but like I said above...a good sounder set up properly won't take long to find the fish. I think we're heading up in Nov. I haven't been out of Rosslyn before. If our friends can't fish with me then I'd be happy to take you. We'll be in Rosslyn though. Not far as I understand. Still not a defenant yet. However if I do then I plan to do exactly what I've posted above. Drive till I find fish. Good luck.