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Hweebe

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Posts posted by Hweebe

  1. 9 hours ago, Huxstang said:

    Yes, just need to understand what the engine gauges do with NMEA and how it ties in with actual engine data.  Dont want to be bumping up engine hours just because its connected to power when the NMEA is powered up ie all the time except when main is switched off.

    You won't have any issues with engine hours due to powering the NMEA. The NMEA is a effectively a "dumb" comms / network cable and is only transmitting what data is presented back from the outboard ECU. The Outboard ECU is what transmits the stored engine hours. As long as the Outboard isn't idling, engine hours won't increase

  2. 2 hours ago, Angry51 said:

    Do you need to use red, what happens if you like green or blue?

    Hahahhahaha sometimes in boat trailer wiring looms they use other colours which is a big help when troubleshooting which trailer light is connected on the wiring loom.

    I have definitely used old odd coloured wiring and Future Me has definitely rued this when I've had to come back and figure what past me did....:) 

  3. On 31/08/2023 at 8:47 PM, Huxstang said:

    bit of a bugger, there is already a NMEA backbone in play for the engine gauge which also has its own GPS puck.

    Are you not able to trace the Boat supplied NMEA backbone and find where the positive and negative wires to disconnect this. Once this is done you should be able to join the two NMEA networks together and single power source from the NMEA backbone you installed?

  4. For a 4.3m i would just use the welded on rails. This would be more than enough.

    Cleats especially if they are not flush mounted can cause a few issues:

    1) Tangles with cast nets

    2) If you have a painted hull - water paint bubbling 

    3) Electrolysis (depending on what kind of fasterners you use (dissimilar metals)

     

     

  5. I'm running 24v for my trolling motor on a BarCrusher 5.75c and love it.

    24v also allows me to plug in my waeco camp fridge for longer fishing trips. I'm also thinking of getting a nice pie / sausage roll oven.

    I'm heavy on the Lowrance echosystem but by all accounts I see a lot moving towards Garmin. (it will be just prohibitively expensive to swap out for me. Maybe on the next boat)

     

     

  6. I'm usually running at least a rod length of leader so swivel is not an option.

    Flatties are one of the best species to try and test yourself on the soft plastics. (ie put your lure in their ambush zone and they will engulf) Getting the rod tip action and lure action / pause with the squidgy will be more important than whether you have a snap swivel or loop knot. For a squidgy the lead head will drive most of the lure action with the sinking and squidgy tail flutter.

    For other species or more delicate lures this may not always be the case.

     

  7. Bit of Benji magic dust has helped the tigers attack. His time under bennett, time away from the game after retiring, doing league analyst work and the final mentoring under sheens is going to make him a great coach

     

  8. Nudgee beach/ beaches in Redcliffe hardly have a wave break so you can just use what you have for regular estuary fishing.

    For Bribie 12ft is way overkill again the wave break is only slight. A 9-10ft graphite or fibreglass rod will suffice for the mostly dart / bream / whiting / flathead catches there.

    For Bribie Island the upper beach side end where there is more swell / wave action tends to fish better.

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