Barry Oliver

Bugger x 2...I thought Tues is going to be good- wind is perfect...got excited...then looked at my diary...:-(...client's...client's...client's...I'm going to have to have a serious talk to my secretary...I mean, surely she can schedule clients on non-fishing days?
I am so keen to do an over-nighter...new boat and all...sigh...
 

The plot thickens!
I have just run an 'out-of-water' current test and this is what I found:
Rabbit mode/10= 5amps
9=4amps
8=3.5amps
7=3amps
6=2.4amps
5=2amps
4=1.9amps
3=1amp
2=0.68amps
1=0.37amps
I will test this next time I'm out. It won't surprise me if these current draws are x10 with load (in water pushing boat).
The engine is a 55lb Minn Kota Riptide Terrova. I have a 120ah battery. That's isolated from the rest of the electrics.
Once I get underload current draw I'll post them here.
In relation to the total electrics this is the story-
1. the electric motor battery is totally isolated from all other electrics (so the battery needs to be charged after each trip and won't be charged by the outboard alternator). The reason for this is most likely that the electrics needed to charge the deep cycle from the outboard without flattening the starter are not worth the effort in such a harsh environment like salt water. Also most outboard don't have big alternators which might be also relevant. Charging a deep cycle battery can take a lot of energy and you don't want to risk any problems with your starting batteries. The exact reason isn't clear yet but these two are good enough for me.
1A. Running deep cycles below 80% discharge reduces their life. Some say down to 50% is ok. Seems to be a bit subjective. So a 120ah battery only has only up to 60ah usable before damage is likely to occur. This means if you run it down more than 80% its going to fail earlier than otherwise. How earlier? How long is a piece of string? Anyway once I get a better idea of current draw under load it will give me better idea of run-times.
2. The isolating switch for the outboard battery: 1, 2 and 1&2 are that..isolating..if you are switched to 1- then only 1 will be charged by the outboard. If you are on 2 same idea- only 2. If on 1&2 both will be charged. However never have it switched to 1&2 because if you get a fault in one battery it will destroy the other. Run your whole trip on only 1 or 2. If you put it on 1&2 you are basically running on only 1 battery albeit a big one. On 1&2 you have the same risk as one battery. If you are out and on 1 and your battery goes flat (for whatever reason) you can switch to 2 and start or vice versa. If you are on 1&2 and you flatten them...call Marine assist or get out your hand starter cable or maybe use your deep cycle as a last resort...:-) Take note GregOug.
Its a good idea to swap between 1 and 2 on different trips, and keep each battery in peak charge. If you don't go out often then keeping both batteries charged is good practice.
Anyway, I hope this helps someone as well as me..:-)
 
 
 

Bugger x 2...I thought Tues is going to be good- wind is perfect...got excited...then looked at my diary...:-(...client's...client's...client's...I'm going to have to have a serious talk to my secretary...I mean, surely she can schedule clients on non-fishing days?
I am so keen to do an over-nighter...new boat and all...sigh...
 

The plot thickens!
I have just run an 'out-of-water' current test and this is what I found:
Rabbit mode/10= 5amps
9=4amps
8=3.5amps
7=3amps
6=2.4amps
5=2amps
4=1.9amps
3=1amp
2=0.68amps
1=0.37amps
I will test this next time I'm out. It won't surprise me if these current draws are x10 with load (in water pushing boat).
The engine is a 55lb Minn Kota Riptide Terrova. I have a 120ah battery. That's isolated from the rest of the electrics.
Once I get underload current draw I'll post them here.
In relation to the total electrics this is the story-
1. the electric motor battery is totally isolated from all other electrics (so the battery needs to be charged after each trip and won't be charged by the outboard alternator). The reason for this is most likely that the electrics needed to charge the deep cycle from the outboard without flattening the starter are not worth the effort in such a harsh environment like salt water. Also most outboard don't have big alternators which might be also relevant. Charging a deep cycle battery can take a lot of energy and you don't want to risk any problems with your starting batteries. The exact reason isn't clear yet but these two are good enough for me.
1A. Running deep cycles below 80% discharge reduces their life. Some say down to 50% is ok. Seems to be a bit subjective. So a 120ah battery only has only up to 60ah usable before damage is likely to occur. This means if you run it down more than 80% its going to fail earlier than otherwise. How earlier? How long is a piece of string? Anyway once I get a better idea of current draw under load it will give me better idea of run-times.
2. The isolating switch for the outboard battery: 1, 2 and 1&2 are that..isolating..if you are switched to 1- then only 1 will be charged by the outboard. If you are on 2 same idea- only 2. If on 1&2 both will be charged. However never have it switched to 1&2 because if you get a fault in one battery it will destroy the other. Run your whole trip on only 1 or 2. If you put it on 1&2 you are basically running on only 1 battery albeit a big one. On 1&2 you have the same risk as one battery. If you are out and on 1 and your battery goes flat (for whatever reason) you can switch to 2 and start or vice versa. If you are on 1&2 and you flatten them...call Marine assist or get out your hand starter cable or maybe use your deep cycle as a last resort...:-) Take note GregOug.
Its a good idea to swap between 1 and 2 on different trips, and keep each battery in peak charge. If you don't go out often then keeping both batteries charged is good practice.
Anyway, I hope this helps someone as well as me..:-)
 
 
 

Sold. Yay!
 

Sold. Yay!
 

Sold. Yay!
 

Sold. Yay!
 

Sold. Yay!
 

Thanks for all the replies but no real answers here, and that probably is the answer...nobody really knows...and that's why its called "fishing"...:-)
 
 

Price is coming down. Make a reasonable offer and there'll be no pooey attitude...except maybe from all the fish you'll catch...;-)

Location is Brisbane. Suburb is Yeronga.
As for the pooey attitude, I generally find that characteristic is captain specific rather than vessel specific. 🙂
 

Location is Brisbane. Suburb is Yeronga.
As for the pooey attitude, I generally find that characteristic is captain specific rather than vessel specific. 🙂
 

Price is coming down. Make a reasonable offer and there'll be no pooey attitude...except maybe from all the fish you'll catch...;-)

Here's a question for the Brisbane fisho gurus (although others too perhaps)!
Before the rain event in Brisbane a couple of weeks ago- A Saturday I went out about 5k north of Peel in Moreton Bay. The water was alive with fish- those ones that school up and boil the water- eg mackerel, tuna etc.
There was lots of bait fish on the sounder. I was catching lots of herring and slimys for live bait as I floated across them. Once I got off the bait I caught lots of little bottom dwelling type fish (bream, squire, fish that look like tropical fish- stripes and colours- no idea what they are called- all small). Anyway, the fish were there and they were biting. It was from about 7am-11am that I was there. I had to leave around 11am for other reasons. I caught a couple of School Mackerel.
I went back to the same spot the following day. Same time 7am-11am. Weather was similar. Tide was similar- outgoing.The pressure hadn't changed by anything significant.
The only difference was that there was no fish- no bait fish on the sounder which I can understand as they probably moved, although the spot is usually very consistent, but there was also no bream,  squire etc. It was like the place had been nuked.
I was using the same bait jig that I used 24hrs earlier.
I didn't check water temp and so don't know if that could change in 24hrs to cause such a significant difference in fish behaviour and numbers.
Of course the bait fish movement can sort of be expected as well as the mackerel etc., but for the bottom dwelling fish to either disappear or seriously go off the bite in 24hrs?
 
Does anyone know what the missing variable may have been?
And maybe a linked question- is this a normal pattern in Moreton Bay? ie massive amounts of fish one day and then nothing the next?
 
Regards
Perplexed 🙂
 
 

Location is Brisbane. Suburb is Yeronga.
As for the pooey attitude, I generally find that characteristic is captain specific rather than vessel specific. 🙂
 

Location is Brisbane. Suburb is Yeronga.
As for the pooey attitude, I generally find that characteristic is captain specific rather than vessel specific. 🙂
 

Location is Brisbane. Suburb is Yeronga.
As for the pooey attitude, I generally find that characteristic is captain specific rather than vessel specific. 🙂
 

Location is Brisbane. Suburb is Yeronga.
As for the pooey attitude, I generally find that characteristic is captain specific rather than vessel specific. 🙂
 

Location is Brisbane. Suburb is Yeronga.
As for the pooey attitude, I generally find that characteristic is captain specific rather than vessel specific. 🙂
 

Its in excellent condition with only 106hrs.

It comes with anchor, fire ext, flares and lifejacket.

A lowrance Hook 5 sounder has been professionally fitted.

It has rodholders on each side professionally fitted.

It has a Fishski box on the back.

It has a brand new handlebar bag.

It has Jet Ski Collars and is very stable.

Its just been serviced by Brisbane Kawasaki ($425)

Rego on ski and trailer is due on 31.3.22 (ie I've just paid them- $260)

The trailer has just had the bearings re-greased (not that they needed it because I never put them under water)

The ski is flushed after every trip without fail. The ski is washed with automotive detergent and water after every trip.

It has a 62ltr fuel tank- the largest in its class

There's extensive storage.

Its 160hp 1500cc naturally aspirated engine.

Other general details can be obtained off the web.

Its about 50% of the replacement value.

It is the ultimate fishing machine.