deegee12g

I'm surprised that you have not had more replies to your post, so I will chip in with my two cents worth even though it doesn't relate exactly to your query.
Some (many) years ago I had a 4.9 meter Canadian style canoe that I used to fish Hinze Dam when fossil fuel boats were banned. I fitted it with a small 28lb thrust electric motor to extend my travel range and time on the water.
It was great for traveling further and faster than I could paddle, and good for trolling too.  It got me back to the ramp quicker if the weather turned nasty while I was out on the water, and I really appreciated it a couple of times heading back into a stiff head wind.
I always thought of it as one of my better decisions, and that the price of the motor and battery was money well spent.
Cheers,   deegee12g

I'm surprised that you have not had more replies to your post, so I will chip in with my two cents worth even though it doesn't relate exactly to your query.
Some (many) years ago I had a 4.9 meter Canadian style canoe that I used to fish Hinze Dam when fossil fuel boats were banned. I fitted it with a small 28lb thrust electric motor to extend my travel range and time on the water.
It was great for traveling further and faster than I could paddle, and good for trolling too.  It got me back to the ramp quicker if the weather turned nasty while I was out on the water, and I really appreciated it a couple of times heading back into a stiff head wind.
I always thought of it as one of my better decisions, and that the price of the motor and battery was money well spent.
Cheers,   deegee12g

I'm surprised that you have not had more replies to your post, so I will chip in with my two cents worth even though it doesn't relate exactly to your query.
Some (many) years ago I had a 4.9 meter Canadian style canoe that I used to fish Hinze Dam when fossil fuel boats were banned. I fitted it with a small 28lb thrust electric motor to extend my travel range and time on the water.
It was great for traveling further and faster than I could paddle, and good for trolling too.  It got me back to the ramp quicker if the weather turned nasty while I was out on the water, and I really appreciated it a couple of times heading back into a stiff head wind.
I always thought of it as one of my better decisions, and that the price of the motor and battery was money well spent.
Cheers,   deegee12g

When I put a new floor in my boat, I bought a non-slip paint. It came with a container of VERY fine sand that had to be mixed into the paint. It was so fine that I didn't think it would work. So I put a coat of it and a piece of scrap plywood, and I was surprised at how much it roughened the surface, and how effective it was,  But it was not abrasive on bare  feet or tackle. I think that was because it was in the paint, not sprinkled on top of it.  It was inclined to settle to the bottom of the can and had to be stirred regularly to keep it in suspension.
Sorry, but I can't remember the brand, or where I got it , but it may have been from Bunnings.
If you use something like beach sand you could get a very coarse, rough surface, so you should test a small amount on some scrap wood before you mix any serious amounts. I'm not sure what makes paint so expensive, but is not cheap and you won't want to waste it.
Cheers,   Don.
 

When I put a new floor in my boat, I bought a non-slip paint. It came with a container of VERY fine sand that had to be mixed into the paint. It was so fine that I didn't think it would work. So I put a coat of it and a piece of scrap plywood, and I was surprised at how much it roughened the surface, and how effective it was,  But it was not abrasive on bare  feet or tackle. I think that was because it was in the paint, not sprinkled on top of it.  It was inclined to settle to the bottom of the can and had to be stirred regularly to keep it in suspension.
Sorry, but I can't remember the brand, or where I got it , but it may have been from Bunnings.
If you use something like beach sand you could get a very coarse, rough surface, so you should test a small amount on some scrap wood before you mix any serious amounts. I'm not sure what makes paint so expensive, but is not cheap and you won't want to waste it.
Cheers,   Don.
 

The shipping channel beacons in the Eastern and northern bay often hold yellowtail kingfish (and Cobia at times). They are not always big ones, but a few of them are. The bigger ones can be very wary, and will seldom take dead or cut baits. The best chance of hooking one is with live bait, which can usually be jigged at the same beacons.
 

The shipping channel beacons in the Eastern and northern bay often hold yellowtail kingfish (and Cobia at times). They are not always big ones, but a few of them are. The bigger ones can be very wary, and will seldom take dead or cut baits. The best chance of hooking one is with live bait, which can usually be jigged at the same beacons.
 

The shipping channel beacons in the Eastern and northern bay often hold yellowtail kingfish (and Cobia at times). They are not always big ones, but a few of them are. The bigger ones can be very wary, and will seldom take dead or cut baits. The best chance of hooking one is with live bait, which can usually be jigged at the same beacons.
 

The shipping channel beacons in the Eastern and northern bay often hold yellowtail kingfish (and Cobia at times). They are not always big ones, but a few of them are. The bigger ones can be very wary, and will seldom take dead or cut baits. The best chance of hooking one is with live bait, which can usually be jigged at the same beacons.
 

Like Greg, I have been thinking of replacing my 7" Lowrance chart plotter with a 9" Garmin and I got quite keen about it when I saw that BCF ad for $1119.
Unfortunately that deal was on the superseded "Echomap Plus" which have been sold out for months.
It has been replaced by the EchoMap UHD 95SV Combo.  The best deal I can find on this unit is BCF at $1349 (as in Ed's post above) and the same at Anaconda. Both are "club" prices but it is free and easy to join up.
While I was typing this Greg has made a decision, but I will post this anyway, in case anyone else has been following the thread with a view to buying or upgrading.
 

Like Greg, I have been thinking of replacing my 7" Lowrance chart plotter with a 9" Garmin and I got quite keen about it when I saw that BCF ad for $1119.
Unfortunately that deal was on the superseded "Echomap Plus" which have been sold out for months.
It has been replaced by the EchoMap UHD 95SV Combo.  The best deal I can find on this unit is BCF at $1349 (as in Ed's post above) and the same at Anaconda. Both are "club" prices but it is free and easy to join up.
While I was typing this Greg has made a decision, but I will post this anyway, in case anyone else has been following the thread with a view to buying or upgrading.
 

Like Greg, I have been thinking of replacing my 7" Lowrance chart plotter with a 9" Garmin and I got quite keen about it when I saw that BCF ad for $1119.
Unfortunately that deal was on the superseded "Echomap Plus" which have been sold out for months.
It has been replaced by the EchoMap UHD 95SV Combo.  The best deal I can find on this unit is BCF at $1349 (as in Ed's post above) and the same at Anaconda. Both are "club" prices but it is free and easy to join up.
While I was typing this Greg has made a decision, but I will post this anyway, in case anyone else has been following the thread with a view to buying or upgrading.
 

Like Greg, I have been thinking of replacing my 7" Lowrance chart plotter with a 9" Garmin and I got quite keen about it when I saw that BCF ad for $1119.
Unfortunately that deal was on the superseded "Echomap Plus" which have been sold out for months.
It has been replaced by the EchoMap UHD 95SV Combo.  The best deal I can find on this unit is BCF at $1349 (as in Ed's post above) and the same at Anaconda. Both are "club" prices but it is free and easy to join up.
While I was typing this Greg has made a decision, but I will post this anyway, in case anyone else has been following the thread with a view to buying or upgrading.
 

Like Greg, I have been thinking of replacing my 7" Lowrance chart plotter with a 9" Garmin and I got quite keen about it when I saw that BCF ad for $1119.
Unfortunately that deal was on the superseded "Echomap Plus" which have been sold out for months.
It has been replaced by the EchoMap UHD 95SV Combo.  The best deal I can find on this unit is BCF at $1349 (as in Ed's post above) and the same at Anaconda. Both are "club" prices but it is free and easy to join up.
While I was typing this Greg has made a decision, but I will post this anyway, in case anyone else has been following the thread with a view to buying or upgrading.
 

Kat's memory may be more accurate than mine, but I think we were anchored in about 5/6 meters, around 30-40 meters up-current from a steep drop-off into about 10-12m deep. The sounder showed quite a lot of small shows, and a few larger ones in the deep water.
However, we got most of our bites fairly close to the boat. This was while the tidal run was slow and not taking our baits back very far towards the deeper water.  They were probably still on the high side of the drop-off.  When the tide run picked up a bit the action was noticeably slower. If we had not already filled our quota I might have re-anchored closer to the edge, so our baits were at the bottom of the slope.  Maybe worth remembering for future reference.

Kat's memory may be more accurate than mine, but I think we were anchored in about 5/6 meters, around 30-40 meters up-current from a steep drop-off into about 10-12m deep. The sounder showed quite a lot of small shows, and a few larger ones in the deep water.
However, we got most of our bites fairly close to the boat. This was while the tidal run was slow and not taking our baits back very far towards the deeper water.  They were probably still on the high side of the drop-off.  When the tide run picked up a bit the action was noticeably slower. If we had not already filled our quota I might have re-anchored closer to the edge, so our baits were at the bottom of the slope.  Maybe worth remembering for future reference.

Kat's memory may be more accurate than mine, but I think we were anchored in about 5/6 meters, around 30-40 meters up-current from a steep drop-off into about 10-12m deep. The sounder showed quite a lot of small shows, and a few larger ones in the deep water.
However, we got most of our bites fairly close to the boat. This was while the tidal run was slow and not taking our baits back very far towards the deeper water.  They were probably still on the high side of the drop-off.  When the tide run picked up a bit the action was noticeably slower. If we had not already filled our quota I might have re-anchored closer to the edge, so our baits were at the bottom of the slope.  Maybe worth remembering for future reference.

Kat's memory may be more accurate than mine, but I think we were anchored in about 5/6 meters, around 30-40 meters up-current from a steep drop-off into about 10-12m deep. The sounder showed quite a lot of small shows, and a few larger ones in the deep water.
However, we got most of our bites fairly close to the boat. This was while the tidal run was slow and not taking our baits back very far towards the deeper water.  They were probably still on the high side of the drop-off.  When the tide run picked up a bit the action was noticeably slower. If we had not already filled our quota I might have re-anchored closer to the edge, so our baits were at the bottom of the slope.  Maybe worth remembering for future reference.

Kat's memory may be more accurate than mine, but I think we were anchored in about 5/6 meters, around 30-40 meters up-current from a steep drop-off into about 10-12m deep. The sounder showed quite a lot of small shows, and a few larger ones in the deep water.
However, we got most of our bites fairly close to the boat. This was while the tidal run was slow and not taking our baits back very far towards the deeper water.  They were probably still on the high side of the drop-off.  When the tide run picked up a bit the action was noticeably slower. If we had not already filled our quota I might have re-anchored closer to the edge, so our baits were at the bottom of the slope.  Maybe worth remembering for future reference.

G'day Kat,
Re your questions :- Most have been answered somewhere above, but here's my two cent's worth.
1. What Ellicat said
2. The Albright is a good knot, but I find it doesn't go through the rod runners as well as the double uni-knot especially in heavier line classes, so I use the double uni.
3. What Revan and Hamish said.
4. The clinch (or half blood knot) is a good knot, but I prefer the single uni-knot, mainly because I find it easier to tie in bad light.
I also agree with Hamish on the number of turns needed for any knots which rely on multiple turns or twists  i.e.  light lines need more turns and heavy lines need less. 
Once upon a time I did a lot of knot strength testing and that was one thing that really stood out. The other  was that most knots needed to be lubed or moistened before tightening.
Since then I use 6 or 7 turns for lines up to 6/7 Kg., one or two less for heavier line, and three or four turns for very heavy leaders.
My rule of thumb for braid is twice as many turns as I would use for mono.
Cheers,   Don.

Hello Kat,  Whiptails only grow to about 30cm max. I have caught several them in Moreton Bay in the past but have never seen or caught one bigger than 20cm.

If I understand what you have said here, then you would be breaking the law by using a "set line". Here is an excerpt from the Qld Recreational fishing rules and regulations :-

Fishing equipment - Fishing Lines - Tidal water

 A cross line, drum line, free-floating line or set line is NOT included as a fishing line.
 You must be present with the line at all times.
Whoops - Ellicat beat me to it while I was cutting & pasting.
 
 
 

G'day Kat,
Re your questions :- Most have been answered somewhere above, but here's my two cent's worth.
1. What Ellicat said
2. The Albright is a good knot, but I find it doesn't go through the rod runners as well as the double uni-knot especially in heavier line classes, so I use the double uni.
3. What Revan and Hamish said.
4. The clinch (or half blood knot) is a good knot, but I prefer the single uni-knot, mainly because I find it easier to tie in bad light.
I also agree with Hamish on the number of turns needed for any knots which rely on multiple turns or twists  i.e.  light lines need more turns and heavy lines need less. 
Once upon a time I did a lot of knot strength testing and that was one thing that really stood out. The other  was that most knots needed to be lubed or moistened before tightening.
Since then I use 6 or 7 turns for lines up to 6/7 Kg., one or two less for heavier line, and three or four turns for very heavy leaders.
My rule of thumb for braid is twice as many turns as I would use for mono.
Cheers,   Don.

G'day Kat,
Re your questions :- Most have been answered somewhere above, but here's my two cent's worth.
1. What Ellicat said
2. The Albright is a good knot, but I find it doesn't go through the rod runners as well as the double uni-knot especially in heavier line classes, so I use the double uni.
3. What Revan and Hamish said.
4. The clinch (or half blood knot) is a good knot, but I prefer the single uni-knot, mainly because I find it easier to tie in bad light.
I also agree with Hamish on the number of turns needed for any knots which rely on multiple turns or twists  i.e.  light lines need more turns and heavy lines need less. 
Once upon a time I did a lot of knot strength testing and that was one thing that really stood out. The other  was that most knots needed to be lubed or moistened before tightening.
Since then I use 6 or 7 turns for lines up to 6/7 Kg., one or two less for heavier line, and three or four turns for very heavy leaders.
My rule of thumb for braid is twice as many turns as I would use for mono.
Cheers,   Don.

G'day Kat,
Re your questions :- Most have been answered somewhere above, but here's my two cent's worth.
1. What Ellicat said
2. The Albright is a good knot, but I find it doesn't go through the rod runners as well as the double uni-knot especially in heavier line classes, so I use the double uni.
3. What Revan and Hamish said.
4. The clinch (or half blood knot) is a good knot, but I prefer the single uni-knot, mainly because I find it easier to tie in bad light.
I also agree with Hamish on the number of turns needed for any knots which rely on multiple turns or twists  i.e.  light lines need more turns and heavy lines need less. 
Once upon a time I did a lot of knot strength testing and that was one thing that really stood out. The other  was that most knots needed to be lubed or moistened before tightening.
Since then I use 6 or 7 turns for lines up to 6/7 Kg., one or two less for heavier line, and three or four turns for very heavy leaders.
My rule of thumb for braid is twice as many turns as I would use for mono.
Cheers,   Don.