Newbie Tackle Rods & Reels Questions

[Kat]

Hi All

Thought I would set up this topic so I can ask all my Newbie questions about tackle here.  You guys are like my encyclopaedia of fishing.

First questions are:

1.  Is it stupid to put a lighter trace on a heavier line and leader?

2.  I use the albright to tie my braid to my fluro leader.  Is this still okay to tie mono line to fluro.

3.  I understand Braid is considered better than mono (I tend to agree) - but under what circumstances is mono better than braid (if any)?

4.  I use a clinch knot for all my other terminal tackle (3 and 1/2 turns).  It has been strong and very rarely failed as far as I can tell.  My braid has snapped more than my knot failing.  Given that should I be using a different knot?

 

[Revan]

Mono is better than braid for abrasion so, rock fishing, also it stretches so it's good for slinging heavy weights far and not snapping line, it's a good all round line that is cheap and works, yes braid has a thinner diamter for it's strength but casting distance is most often heavily overrated, but not always.

[ellicat]

1 hour ago, Kat said:

Hi All

Thought I would set up this topic so I can ask all my Newbie questions about tackle here.  You guys are like my encyclopaedia of fishing.

First questions are:

1.  Is it stupid to put a lighter trace on a heavier line and leader?

2.  I use the albright to tie my braid to my fluro leader.  Is this still okay to tie mono line to fluro.

3.  I understand Braid is considered better than mono (I tend to agree) - but under what circumstances is mono better than braid (if any)?

4.  I use a clinch knot for all my other terminal tackle (3 and 1/2 turns).  It has been strong and very rarely failed as far as I can tell.  My braid has snapped more than my knot failing.  Given that should I be using a different knot?

 

1. No, it is not stupid. EG You're running 12 leader and trace for flatties, then decide to chase bream. I would just change my trace to a lighter line. (Actually I couldn't be bothered but it's just an example).

2. Don't know. Don't use it.

3. In addition to Revan's comment, when fishing light in shallower water where there's not much difference in feeling a bite between mono and braid. EG Whiting in 2 metres of water using 6lb.

4. If it ain't broke don't fix it. If you'd like to try something different - For hooks I use a locked bloodknot or a uniknot. For swivels I use a Jansik knot.

[AUS-BNE-FISHO]

2 hours ago, Kat said:

Hi All

Thought I would set up this topic so I can ask all my Newbie questions about tackle here.  You guys are like my encyclopaedia of fishing.

First questions are:

1.  Is it stupid to put a lighter trace on a heavier line and leader?

2.  I use the albright to tie my braid to my fluro leader.  Is this still okay to tie mono line to fluro.

3.  I understand Braid is considered better than mono (I tend to agree) - but under what circumstances is mono better than braid (if any)?

4.  I use a clinch knot for all my other terminal tackle (3 and 1/2 turns).  It has been strong and very rarely failed as far as I can tell.  My braid has snapped more than my knot failing.  Given that should I be using a different knot?

 

G'day Kat

First old all, none of your questions are stupid. I wouldn't have known any of this when I first started fishing either!

1. Nope, not at all. I do this all the time. You can tie any trace onto any line, if I am really honest - it doesn't matter.

2. The Albright knot should be fine for that... I use it too and it works well. 

3. Well this is debatable. You could go on for yonks talking about pros/cons of each, but simply braid is a good mainline for lure casting, live baiting, and basically general fishing. The only time I could think of when mono is better (or should be used instead of, I don't think better is the right word as you can use either in most situations) is when fishing the surf. You want some stretch as the swell receding back and forth will pull braid in more (or that's my understanding). 

4. I use a Clinch Knot as well - very simple and trustworthy. I don't think there's anything wrong with this  

Cheers Hamish

 

[GregOug]

Hi Kat,

Here’s my two bobs worth, which isn’t even worth that. But anyway.

1. In my humble opinion, yes it is stupid, except for a couple of occasions. Why bother using a heavier main line if your end tackle is not of the same breaking strain. It will break first so why use heavier main line. The only time I do this is usually when reef fishing I use a lighter line on a paternoster rig to the sinker at the bottom so when you get the sinker snagged you only have to replace it, rather than the complete rig.  
2. I find the Albright line a very useful knot. Mind you, I only tied my first ones today to secure the wire trace from a hardbody lure to a mono leader then to the braid mainline. I haven’t actually tried them out yet so can’t comment on their actual effectiveness! 
3. I’m old school. I only use braid for trolling. Why pay four times the price for braid when mono has caught fish for a long time, and will continue to do so.

4. I don’t even know the name of the knot I use for terminal tackle. Just always tied it.

Im sure you’ll catch many more fish now I’ve revealed my fonts of wisdom.

cheers

Greg

[Kat]

1 hour ago, ellicat said:

 

4. If it ain't broke don't fix it. If you'd like to try something different - For hooks I use a locked bloodknot or a uniknot. For swivels I use a Jansik knot.

Thanks.  Will try and learn more knots and rigs this week.

I think I need to figure out how to fish all the rocky or tree root structure without losing 10 metres of fluro every time I fish.  Paternoster and some sort of float.  Different types of sinkers.  More questions to come.  Hope I am not annoying everyone.

Cheers Kat

[Kat]

50 minutes ago, AUS-BNE-FISHO said:

 

4. I use a Clinch Knot as well - very simple and trustworthy. I don't think there's anything wrong with this  

Cheers Hamish

 

How many turns Hamish?  3 1/2?  The instructions in my book are confusing.  I will re-read it this week I think.

[AUS-BNE-FISHO]

Just now, Kat said:

How many turns Hamish?  3 1/2?  The instructions in my book are confusing.  I will re-read it this week I think.

Anywhere from 5-10 normally, but a general rule is the heavier the line the less turns needed.

If three and a half is working for you then I'd keep doing that  

Cheers Hamish

[deegee12g]

G'day Kat,

Re your questions :- Most have been answered somewhere above, but here's my two cent's worth.

1. What Ellicat said

2. The Albright is a good knot, but I find it doesn't go through the rod runners as well as the double uni-knot especially in heavier line classes, so I use the double uni.

3. What Revan and Hamish said.

4. The clinch (or half blood knot) is a good knot, but I prefer the single uni-knot, mainly because I find it easier to tie in bad light.

I also agree with Hamish on the number of turns needed for any knots which rely on multiple turns or twists  i.e.  light lines need more turns and heavy lines need less. 

Once upon a time I did a lot of knot strength testing and that was one thing that really stood out. The other  was that most knots needed to be lubed or moistened before tightening.

Since then I use 6 or 7 turns for lines up to 6/7 Kg., one or two less for heavier line, and three or four turns for very heavy leaders.

My rule of thumb for braid is twice as many turns as I would use for mono.

Cheers,   Don.

[Drop Bear]

1 hour ago, deegee12g said:

G'day Kat,

Re your questions :- Most have been answered somewhere above, but here's my two cent's worth.

1. What Ellicat said

2. The Albright is a good knot, but I find it doesn't go through the rod runners as well as the double uni-knot especially in heavier line classes, so I use the double uni.

3. What Revan and Hamish said.

4. The clinch (or half blood knot) is a good knot, but I prefer the single uni-knot, mainly because I find it easier to tie in bad light.

I also agree with Hamish on the number of turns needed for any knots which rely on multiple turns or twists  i.e.  light lines need more turns and heavy lines need less. 

Once upon a time I did a lot of knot strength testing and that was one thing that really stood out. The other  was that most knots needed to be lubed or moistened before tightening.

Since then I use 6 or 7 turns for lines up to 6/7 Kg., one or two less for heavier line, and three or four turns for very heavy leaders.

My rule of thumb for braid is twice as many turns as I would use for mono.

Cheers,   Don.

Pro tips thanks. 

[Drop Bear]

17 hours ago, Kat said:

Hi All

Thought I would set up this topic so I can ask all my Newbie questions about tackle here.  You guys are like my encyclopaedia of fishing.

First questions are:

1.  Is it stupid to put a lighter trace on a heavier line and leader?

2.  I use the albright to tie my braid to my fluro leader.  Is this still okay to tie mono line to fluro.

3.  I understand Braid is considered better than mono (I tend to agree) - but under what circumstances is mono better than braid (if any)?

4.  I use a clinch knot for all my other terminal tackle (3 and 1/2 turns).  It has been strong and very rarely failed as far as I can tell.  My braid has snapped more than my knot failing.  Given that should I be using a different knot?

 

Hey cat lots of info above. I only have one thing to add. I would recommend learning the FG knot for braid to mono. 

It is really tricky at first but I find it easy and quick now. The biggest advantage and why I do it is that the knot has a very low profile and runs through the rod guides very easily 

In saying all this I use Uni to Uni for braid lighter than 10lb. 

All the best

 

[Kat]

10 hours ago, deegee12g said:

G'day Kat,

Re your questions :- Most have been answered somewhere above, but here's my two cent's worth.

1. What Ellicat said

2. The Albright is a good knot, but I find it doesn't go through the rod runners as well as the double uni-knot especially in heavier line classes, so I use the double uni.

3. What Revan and Hamish said.

4. The clinch (or half blood knot) is a good knot, but I prefer the single uni-knot

Hi Don

Thanks.  Let's see if I can learn the single and double uni knot before we meet again.  I will also learn the FG.

Thanks @Drop Bear

[Kat]

further queries.

Have come into some money that I would like to use to supplement my fishing tools and terminal tackle - perhaps spooling a reel - Daiwa Saltline Bull 4500Hi with braid.

I really haven't bought any tools, running out of ball sinkers, hooks, swivels.  Don't have long nose pliers etc.

1.  Can you AFO'ers suggest where the most economical place to buy the above is?; and

2.  What would you consider essential - for mainly land fishing but some deckie boat fishing too?

(i.e. should I have some floats, burley pot, what type of sinkers and size, hook type and size, Braid Brand)

Don't go overboard just a few suggestions of good quality/essential items a newbie won't know about yet.  Thanks in anticipation.

 

Kat

 

 

 

[ellicat]

A good sharp knife in a scabbard is always handy for cutting baits and dispatching fish.

[Kat]

41 minutes ago, ellicat said:

A good sharp knife in a scabbard is always handy for cutting baits and dispatching fish.

Yes that was on my list - hadn't thought about scabbard - thanks.  My current bait and dispatching knife was donated and cost $2.00 - barely cuts bait.  Any suggestions on brand?

[ellicat]

Not really. I had a Kershaw that held its edge well. It recently went missing and I've replaced it with a Blade Runner which I was wanting to test out today.

Probably around the $50 mark will get you a decent one that will also be bendy enough to fillet and skin. There are better knives out there but you'd have to have a splurge.

[Angry51]

You can get butchers filleting knife for around 12-15$.

And there good quality.

Boning knife they're called.

Edited October 29, 2020 by Angry51
Add imformation

[ellicat]

Just now, Angry51 said:

You can get butchers filleting knife for around 12-15$.

And there good quality.

Where can you pick those up ? I may have just ripped myself off :(

[Angry51]

Any butcher supply shop.

Google butcher supplies, must be heaps in Brissy.

Price rise, looking at around $30

There was a mob selling knives with your name engraved on for $28 a few

months ago. I get a lot of email on butcher stuff as I get stuff online for

my sausage making and smoking. But how many do you need.

Edited October 29, 2020 by Angry51
Add imformation

[Angry51]

Brian, Look at MEFE Knives.

They are the ones who do the engraved blades.

Probably one of the biggest distributers in OZ.

They have boners for around the $20 mark.

[Drop Bear]

Vicrotinox Swibo is a great brand of knife. I cant see them for $15 but they are great. 

Some of the cheaper ones have handles that degrade and don't keep a nice edge. 

https://www.everten.com.au/victorinox-swibo-filleting-knife-flexible-blade-20cm.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwreT8BRDTARIsAJLI0KJw8WXhIkdygj6-ThqORm5iKts6AfDF4ANcxeC0jEoNymSXUVUNB3caAlxvEALw_wcB

[AUS-BNE-FISHO]

5 hours ago, Kat said:

further queries.

Have come into some money that I would like to use to supplement my fishing tools and terminal tackle - perhaps spooling a reel - Daiwa Saltline Bull 4500Hi with braid.

I really haven't bought any tools, running out of ball sinkers, hooks, swivels.  Don't have long nose pliers etc.

1.  Can you AFO'ers suggest where the most economical place to buy the above is?; and

2.  What would you consider essential - for mainly land fishing but some deckie boat fishing too?

(i.e. should I have some floats, burley pot, what type of sinkers and size, hook type and size, Braid Brand)

Don't go overboard just a few suggestions of good quality/essential items a newbie won't know about yet.  Thanks in anticipation.

 

Kat

 

 

 

Hi Kat

The most economical place to buy would probably be your nearest tackle store (preferably a family owned as it will be better than BCF)

I would say essential gear would be pliers, bait knife, bait board, small tackle box for taking fishing, and maybe lip grippers. 

Cheers Hamish

P.S. I'll say mroe when I get home from school

 

[Old Scaley]

Some suggestions for you @Kat:

Knives: I would never take my filleting knives out fishing. Any cheap knife will do for cutting up bait. Berkeley do a reasonable knife with a scabbard and sharpener for around $20. Good filleting knives are a lot more and you don’t want to risk the edge by using it for other purposes in my opinion.

Pliers: Any reasonable pair of long nose pliers will do most of what you want, but there are specialist fishing pliers if you are going to be opening split rings on lures, or crimping bits on homemade wire traces.

Scaler if you don’t like skinning fillets. Those round ones on a wooden handle are cheap and popular or you could just use a desert spoon.

Tackle boxes: Since you are land based or on someone else’s boat, I recommend having a bulk store at home in any sort of container that has compartments and then having a small box that is easy to transport and doesn’t take up much room. Before you go fishing think about the type of fishing you will be doing and pack the small box accordingly.

Leader: over time you can build up a stash of spools of different weight leaders. Start with 6, 10 and 20 lb. Most people use fluorocarbon but nylon is ok if the budget is tight. Fluorocarbon is expensive but a spool should last you ages. 

Braid: You will get lots of opinions on the best braid, but I think most of the mid-range brands are fine. Just avoid the really cheap stuff as it doesn’t cast well and is just not nice to use. I have Daiwa  X8 J braid on a couple of reels and I have been happy with it, but don’t buy the blue colour as it is almost impossible to see in a lot of situations. Next time I will be going back to fluoro yellow or the multicolour.

Braid scissors: You will need these to trim your braid to mono knots nice and neatly. Daiwa make some well priced ones that do the job.

Hooks: Keep a selection of different sizes and styles. For your yabbies you need long shank hooks in sizes 2, 4 or 6. A packet of suicide pattern in 1/0 and 2/0 and some octopus circle hooks in size 4/0 and 5/0. That should cover most types of estuary fishing. If you are going on someone’s boat chasing mackerel with pilchards, get a packet of 4/0 gang hooks.

Sinkers: A selection of ball and bean sinkers in sizes 1, 2, 3 and 4 will get you started.

Swivels: I just go by sight with the sizes so can’t be too specific but keep them small and go barrel style for most uses.

Soft plastics, jig heads and hard body lures are a whole different topic. Sing out when you are ready to dive into that vortex. There are plenty of people with great knowledge on here that will help.

 I hope that helps you Kat. It is amazing how much you can spend setting up and topping up your tackle box. Even if you spend up big initially, you will always find that you need to visit the tackle shop for more and you will be surprised when you get to the cash register how much you are spending. I like to support the local tackle store rather than the big name store and find the prices are not too different.

Good luck!

 

[Kat]

Thanks @oldscaley and @AUS-BNE-FISHO!!!

Excellent advice - I hope - what do I know.  Thanks for being really specific it helps because there is soooooo much to choose from and learn.

I went to my local tackle shop today and got a few of those items suggested.  

Agree I just got a filleting knife yesterday and won't be taking it out with me!

One question - can I save some money by getting the pliers at bunnings or do they have to be some sort of marine grade steel?

Cheers Kat

[Old Scaley]

22 minutes ago, Kat said:

Thanks @oldscaley and @AUS-BNE-FISHO!!!

Excellent advice - I hope - what do I know.  Thanks for being really specific it helps because there is soooooo much to choose from and learn.

I went to my local tackle shop today and got a few of those items suggested.  

Agree I just got a filleting knife yesterday and won't be taking it out with me!

One question - can I save some money by getting the pliers at bunnings or do they have to be some sort of marine grade steel?

Cheers Kat

You can get them from Bunnings @Kat. Just remember to give them a rinse after your fishing session and a quick spray of WD40 or similar every now and again to keep the rust at bay. Now you have a filleting knife you can become as obsessed as I am with getting and keeping the perfect edge. I am still on that particular journey after many years of trying different sharpening tools and techniques. No matter how sharp I get knives I always think they could be sharper. I think it is a sickness. 

[Kat]

Thanks @Old Scaley

I sort of understand.  My son had a fascination with collecting knives and polishing and sharpening them with stones etc.  He never had any use for them though.  Wish I had kept them now

Cheers Kat

[Drop Bear]

12 hours ago, Old Scaley said:

I think it is a sickness.

haha gold.

OMHO If you can shave your arm hairs they are plenty sharp enough

[Do$tylz]

I'd also recommend a small waterproof tuppaware box that you can take with you to put in used hooks/swivels/sinkers. During a fishing session, you will probably change rigs once or twice and you probably want to re-use some of your gear rather than bin it. DON'T put it back in the tacklebox with all of your new/dry gear. It will very quickly start rusting out all of your new gear and you will be buying new gear again soon.

Put all of your used stuff into the small tuppaware container and then when you get home, empty, rinse and dry away from your other gear. Once dry, then you can put it back in your tackle box for re-use in future.

[Junky]

A pair of these. 

185mm Black Panther snips.

It's hard finding a decent pair of snips for braid.

Haven't had the braid fold over in the jaws yet. Cuts first time with absolute ease and using just the tip. 

It also cuts through thoses thick rib cages on fish when filleting to save the blade on your knife. 

Worth every cent imo. 

[Old Scaley]

@Junky, I have a couple of pairs of these and they are great for cutting most things. I find them a bit bulky for getting the braid tag ends cut close enough to the knot. I have a pair of Daiwa braid snips that are getting a bit old now but do a good job.

[Kat]

6 hours ago, Do$tylz said:

I'd also recommend a small waterproof tuppaware box that you can take with you to put in used hooks/swivels/sinkers. During a fishing session, you will probably change rigs once or twice and you probably want to re-use some of your gear rather than bin it. DON'T put it back in the tacklebox with all of your new/dry gear. It will very quickly start rusting out all of your new gear and you will be buying new gear again soon.

Put all of your used stuff into the small tuppaware container and then when you get home, empty, rinse and dry away from your other gear. Once dry, then you can put it back in your tackle box for re-use in future.

Hi @Do$tylz

Thanks for that tip!  I have been putting them back with my other gear and didn't even think about getting another container for them.  Will definitely do that.

Kat

[Kat]

4 hours ago, Junky said:

A pair of these. 

185mm Black Panther snips.

It's hard finding a decent pair of snips for braid.

Haven't had the braid fold over in the jaws yet. Cuts first time with absolute ease and using just the tip. 

It also cuts through thoses thick rib cages on fish when filleting to save the blade on your knife. 

Worth every cent imo. 

Hey Junky

Thanks.  Will go have a look at these.  I have braid scissors but they seem to have given up cutting braid lately!  I would like to imagine having to use then on a fish big enough to have a strong ribcage!  Or any fish at all....

[GregOug]

23 minutes ago, Kat said:

Hey Junky

Thanks.  Will go have a look at these.  I have braid scissors but they seem to have given up cutting braid lately!  I would like to imagine having to use then on a fish big enough to have a strong ribcage!  Or any fish at all....

I bought a pair of these. Bloody fantastic. Cut anything. I think they were around $65 from Total Tools.

 

[Kat]

Hi Greg

I think I prefer the other cutters price

[GregOug]

45 minutes ago, Kat said:

Hi Greg

I think I prefer the other cutters price

Okay

[Brodie_S]

Well to tie a heavier leader then mainline I use FG but for tying lighter leaders I use a version of the Alberto and yes braid is better and you might want to learn a uni knot to tie hooks lures and stuff

I've heard and seen many clinch or blood knots fail on decent fish a uni or palomar knot is a lot better I used to use a clinch knot but switched just after I got rid of my Kmart gear. uni is much more reliable and stronger for attaching hooks swivels lures etc I would recommend for the Alberto knot to go through the loop 2 extra times at the end of the knot 3 times in total it’s a lot stronger then a standard Alberto . And no it’s definitely not stupid to tie a heavier leader the reason we tie heavier leaders is not for extra strength because it won’t make a difference in strength it is to increase abrasion resistance