quick update, and another question or two

[MattInOz]

Hey guys... it's been a while so here's a quick update. The boat now has new floors, and a second pair of (removable) seats in the aft with the front ones replaced with Quintrex seats on posts that fit in the standard spigots (thanks much to Ellicat), and built in battery box and rope locker in the stern. Have got the engine running nicely (it was stalling and farting on idle previously - new plug leads and richen the idle mixture a bit fixed that), and I've fully rewired it and put in a dual battery system with an Auto Charge Relay so I don't have to think about which battery I'm switched to. Got my boat licence (thanks to Stephen at AllState boat licencing... had fun), and passed my Short Range Radio Operator's course... just waiting for the radio licence in the mail now. There's a minor leak but I think I've located it so either some JB Weld or actual welding will fix that and need to get one of the ribs that hold the floor in place rewelded, and I think I need the trim ram rebuilt as it won't trim up under power... then I'm about ready to start actually using it. I've had it in the river a few times... did a quick blast from Fig Tree Pocket to UQ and back, runs nicely. It's smokey when you first start it, but it's a 2 stroke so that's normal.

I've also bought a new trailer for it (Stonegate Trailers) since the old one was made of swiss cheese and rust, which I'm reasonably happy with. Took the boat to the local ramp and put it in the water yesterday to swap trailers (amongst other things)... took me and a friend about an hour and a bit to adjust the new trailer to suit the boat and I reckon it's pretty close... maybe just need the boat an inch or two forward for a bit more tongue weight as it's clunking around a little under tow.

This leads me to my next question (well, two really) however... the old trailer had tie down points on the sides and a strap across the gunnels but the new one has them right at the rear, looks like they're intended for boats with mounting points on the transom which of course mine doesn't have. I could get some loops welded to the trailer of course but that'll stuff up the hot gal dip so I'd prefer a bolt on solution. I found a mob in Victoria selling these "Bolt on tie down bracket suits 75mm x 50mm" (I'll attach  a pic) that look like they'll work but my trailer box section is only 70 x 50. Is the extra 5mm going to be a problem? Should I pad out the difference with some rubber, or plate steel, or something?

Next question... the old trailer had a bracket on the rearmost crossmember for an outboard support strut... but the new trailer's rear cross member doesn't go all the way across... it has a gap in the centre (for outboards, inboards, stern drives etc I assume). I could put a strut bracket on the next crossmember up but that's about a meter in and I'd need to get the support lengthened and possibly curved and it would be a pain to get on/off. Do I actually NEED to use a support strut on the outboard? Is there another option such as supporting it from the engine mounts on the transom etc? I'll try to attach a pic of the rear of the trailer too.

Thanks guys

Matt

[AUS-BNE-FISHO]

Good to hear its going well Matt. Someone else will be able to help with the questions

[Angry51]

Why do you need the tie down bracket, just run your tie down strap straight around the 70x50. I just use a 50 mm webbing rachet strap on mine straight around chassis. You never drive around with the trailer ( only at the ramp ) so the strap is always done up. What size motor do you have, does it need a bracket?

[MattInOz]

41 minutes ago, Angry51 said:

Why do you need the tie down bracket, just run your tie down strap straight around the 70x50. I just use a 50 mm webbing rachet strap on mine straight around chassis. You never drive around with the trailer ( only at the ramp ) so the strap is always done up. What size motor do you have, does it need a bracket?

The ratchet strap I have doesn't have regular hooks, it has these odd S shaped hooks that go through the tied down and triangular loops that go over it to lock it into place... I'll attach a pic. I can't even find these things online... maybe just replacing the ratchet strap's a better idea.

The motor's only a 40hp, nothing big. Dunno if it NEEDS a bracket, but it came with one so I figured I should use it. In theory I could lift it all the way up and use the built in lock but then the top of the motor housing runs into the splashwell. Annoying. (I also can't turn it all the way starboard coz the drag link runs into the side of the splashwell. Think I know why Allycraft stopped using splashwells in later boats.)

[MattInOz]

1 hour ago, AUS-BNE-FISHO said:

Good to hear its going well Matt. Someone else will be able to help with the questions

Thanks. Hopefully I'll be able to get some real boat time in soon and follow some of your suggestions.

[Angry51]

Yeah Matt, Same strap I use, go around the chassis and hook back around the strap itself, same with the rachet end. Mine are rated 2 tonne.They are the proper transport straps buy them at any Truckline store.

[Another Wazza]

Have you looked at these Matt?

[MattInOz]

1 hour ago, Another Wazza said:

Have you looked at these Matt?

 

Mate... that's exactly what I need, brilliant! One issue solved with ease. Do I need to order a specific length or just cut it to suit?

[MattInOz]

1 hour ago, Angry51 said:

Yeah Matt, Same strap I use, go around the chassis and hook back around the strap itself, same with the rachet end. Mine are rated 2 tonne.They are the proper transport straps buy them at any Truckline store.

Yeah think mine's 1500kg... so I can just loop those hooks over the strap? That makes life easier.

[mangajack]

2 questions.

How far up do you need your motor for trailering?

How strong is the transom?

If you can have it fairly low for trailering then get a rubber rod to put into the hinge and lower the motor onto it...no need for an outboard leg brkt.

If it is needing to be up higher then look at how much flex that imparts on the transom as it gets shock loaded with bounces in the road....the lower they are the less they flex the transom.

[Another Wazza]

11 minutes ago, MattInOz said:

Mate... that's exactly what I need, brilliant! One issue solved with ease. Do I need to order a specific length or just cut it to suit?

Hey Matt, they can be cut to suit

[MattInOz]

12 minutes ago, mangajack said:

2 questions.

How far up do you need your motor for trailering?

Not much... if it's more than about 10° up from vertical it clears speed bumps etc.

12 minutes ago, mangajack said:

How strong is the transom?

Uhh? Don't know. It's a 4.3m aluminium runabout with a 40hp hanging off it and a splashwell built into it. It doesn't fall off or flex when I use it. How does one test the strength of a transom... other than destructively?

12 minutes ago, mangajack said:

If you can have it fairly low for trailering then get a rubber rod to put into the hinge and lower the motor onto it...no need for an outboard leg brkt.

If it is needing to be up higher then look at how much flex that imparts on the transom as it gets shock loaded with bounces in the road....the lower they are the less they flex the transom.

Yeah that's why I wanted to avoid the built in tilt lock, coz it's up at maximum tilt. From what you say I should be ok with one of those plastic dohickeys that Another Wazza recommends. Just want to keep the stress off the hydralics really.

[MattInOz]

7 minutes ago, Another Wazza said:

Hey Matt, they can be cut to suit

Sounds like just what I need... tanks.

[MattInOz]

Quick update... took the boat to a local welder (Scott, top bloke, works out of his back yard. Hit me up if you want his number) to get the broken welds on one of the floor ribs rewelded and he spotted my leak... the factory weld in the chine where the bottom bit of the hull joins the side bit (I'm sure they have real names) had what originally looked like an 8" crack along it. Apparently it opened up more when he got the tig onto it... by the time he was done it was closer to a 14" long repair. Glad that got fixed... will put it back in the river on sunday to see if we stay dry.

In related news I took the trailer out to R & M boat trailer repairs in Hemmant today... they made me a pair of bolt on tie down points - $40 for the pair (as versus the ones I saw on ebay for $75 each that I would have had to modify to fit!).  Very happy I am. Replaced the breather and filler fuel lines for the under floor tank too and in theory it should now be seaworthy... just needs the floor put back in after I prove it on sunday. Wish me luck.

 

[Angry51]

Yeah, those tie downs look the goods Matt.

Hope everything performs as required, good luck.

Give us a report after test done.

[MattInOz]

Hey again guys... here's an update to the update. Took the boat and a mate (and his 40kg rottweiler) up to Pumicestone Passage for the day. Put in at Bellara Boat Ramp and logged in with VMR Bribie Island. Spent about 5-6 hours buzzing around the passage and a couple of creek mouths, getting some lines wet and so forth. The boat basically didn't leak... got about 10 seconds of dribble when I pulled the bungs out and that was it. The trailer performed flawlessly, as you'd expect from a new trailer... and I'm learning how to use the fish finder.

The engine does have one minor issue... when you're trolling and running at low speed for an extended period it'll be fine for about ten minutes then start to struggle as if it's starving. If you give it a rev (either in gear or in nuetral with the fast idle) it'll come good, if not it'll die and require a few squeezes of the priming bulb before it'll restart. The water seperating filter bowl will still be full of fuel so I'm suspecting a minor air leak somewhere between the filter and the fuel pump, or the pump itself may need some attention. Other than that the engine pulled strongly and behaved itself... it's even stopped the enormous cloud of smoke it used to do when you first started it. Other than that I'm going to put a hydrofoil on it to get the stern up quicker as the boat's gotten quite stern heavy with the addition of the second battery and two extra seats in the aft... will probably go with one of the aluminium "OzPropellors" ones from up in Maroochydore to support local businesses (and because I like the idea of an aluminium one more than a plastic one).

We did pull in a few fish and I got an introduction to trolling, but more of that in another post.

[mangajack]

Swap your spark plugs out fir surface gap plugs in the same heat range, they don't suffer from oiling or carbonizing like std plugs do and they last forever.

A 40hp on a 4.3m will definitely not need a foil....move some of your weight forward if anything and adjust the trim right in for launch then trip out when on the plane.

Do you know how many RPM you get at wide open throttle?? You should be getting 5800 to 6000rpm...if not you might be over propped a little....either reduce the pitch by an inch or the diameter by 1/2".

[Bob9863]

I'd also add fuel doctor to the fuel, it helps keep everything clean and running smoothly.

It might be worthwhile getting the carry cleaned too, the low speed jet could be an issue, but if you get it done then that's one problem that won't creep up on you in a hurry.

I often put on new lines too when I buy a 2nd hand motor, especially if it's sat around for a while.

[MattInOz]

On 19/08/2023 at 7:57 PM, mangajack said:

Swap your spark plugs out fir surface gap plugs in the same heat range, they don't suffer from oiling or carbonizing like std plugs do and they last forever.

Yeah that's a really good idea... will look into that.

On 19/08/2023 at 7:57 PM, mangajack said:

A 40hp on a 4.3m will definitely not need a foil....move some of your weight forward if anything and adjust the trim right in for launch then trip out when on the plane.

Not a lot of weight I can move forward... the batteries etc are in the stern and everything else is already stashed in the bow. The tank's under the floor so it can't be moved. To add to the problem I've put a pair of seats in the stern so I can take out the family or a 3rd person fishing so I really need that stern out of the water faster. Put the 'foil on today so we'll see how it goes. Put in a skeg guard too just in case... plus I like polished stainless steel.

On 19/08/2023 at 7:57 PM, mangajack said:

Do you know how many RPM you get at wide open throttle?? You should be getting 5800 to 6000rpm...if not you might be over propped a little....either reduce the pitch by an inch or the diameter by 1/2".

The engine (Merc 40hp 2 stroke 3 cyl) has a redline of 5500 and it gets there at WOT. Prop's the factory 10 5/8 x 12. I think it's more weight issue than a prop one... it's really happy to get it's nose up in the air if anyone's in the blunt end of the boat. Scared the life out of the missus first time it happened.

[MattInOz]

On 20/08/2023 at 11:35 AM, Bob9863 said:

I'd also add fuel doctor to the fuel, it helps keep everything clean and running smoothly.

I'm a bit suss about fuel additives... most of them are just snake oil - other than Sta-Bil. Will look into it though.

On 20/08/2023 at 11:35 AM, Bob9863 said:

It might be worthwhile getting the carry cleaned too, the low speed jet could be an issue, but if you get it done then that's one problem that won't creep up on you in a hurry.

Yeah... I've been activley avoiding that... three carbs that all have to be synchronised again after I pull them apart. It's not hard, it's just a pain. I should bite the bullet and do it though.

On 20/08/2023 at 11:35 AM, Bob9863 said:

I often put on new lines too when I buy a 2nd hand motor, especially if it's sat around for a while.

I've replaced all the fuel and vent lines... cost me a small fortune coz of the under floor tank... just the 1 meter of 38mm fuel filler line was nearly $90... but the old one had more in common with a stick than a flexible fuel line, so had to be done.

[Angry51]

Yeah I'm not a believer in additives either.

Looks like you're getting it together, at least you'll know it all done properly Matt.

Good luck, it'll soon be a goer.

[MattInOz]

18 hours ago, Angry51 said:

Yeah I'm not a believer in additives either.

Looks like you're getting it together, at least you'll know it all done properly Matt.

Good luck, it'll soon be a goer.

Yeah I'm pretty close to calling it a done deal now. There's a few more things I want to do but they're really minor things... wiring the guage/compass lights to the nav lights instead of the ignition, swapping out the speedo for a GPS one (ordered from aliexpress... mostly so I know what speed I'm trolling at, also so I can remove the pitot tube from the transom and fill the screw holes), and fitting an hour meter so I know when it needs a service... but effectivley it's finished now. I'm going out to Moreton Bay wednesday week with two other largish blokes, that'll be the last "sea trial"... if all goes well I'll call it done.

[Angry51]

Yeah Matt, all the bits and pieces you can do on weekends when the winds blowing 35klms.

Doing it yourself you can get it to suit your style.

Take some pics and lets know how she goes.