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Oooppps . I Need To Rewire My Cables


Drop Bear

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Hi,

I am doing up my, new to me, old tinny. I have been building casting decks all day. I thought I would be able to build the casting decks around the center console and not have to disconnect any of the control cables. I now realise I will have to disconnect them and then poke them through a hole under the decks and reconnect them.. 

Has anyone done this before? Do they unplug anywhere or should I try and get an auto elec or... um...

I suspect this has been covered before so if any clever people can post a link that would be tops too!

Please help

Sorry for the wobbly photos but the lighting was a bit dodgy in the garage. 

 

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just unbolt the control box from the console ,remove the backing plate and you will be able to disconnect the 2 control cables and the wiring loom.Take a photo so you know how it all goes back together.You should also be able to redo the steering cable whilst you are at it.No need for an auto leccy you would be better off with an outboard mechanic if you are not confident in doing it yourself.

Are you going to put in hatches under the decks?

Cheers

Ray.

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@rayke01

Thanks for the tips. I tried that but got scared.... so have just unbolted it and am going to have a hole under the helm big enough to put the whole throttle housing through.  I hope to make a 2 piece cover piece to close up the large hole. Yes putting hatches everywhere. I have only tacked everything in place. Wish me luck... i think i will need it haha

 

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5 hours ago, timtam_ said:

 

Looks very neat! How much weight will be added with all the timber and framing? Will it affect performance?

 

I have put in about 3 sheets of 17mm ply. This will add about 45kg. It is evenly distributed and I have taken out about 10kg from the original floor and all the crap old tinnys have on them like drink holders and broken aerials etc. I am putting on a new electric motor and a second battery and a second fuel tank... I dont know how much that weighs but its not insignificant?  I hope that it wont make much difference to performance. It was very easy to get out of the water with 2 of us in it the other day. I am used to a 15hp tinny that is hard to get on the plane so I hope it will work out great. 

Failing all that it is the boat I really want so I may have to go to the shops and buy a new 40hp version :) 

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Ok so I have dry fitted everything. Now I have dismantled it all and I'm gluing, putting the anti corrosion stuff on all screws and screwing it all together. It was really tricky finding a way to get the cables through to the console but I think it will work out really well. Electric motor arrived today... hopefully I will have it done by New years!

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10 hours ago, Drop Bear said:

Ok so I have dry fitted everything. Now I have dismantled it all and I'm gluing, putting the anti corrosion stuff on all screws and screwing it all together. It was really tricky finding a way to get the cables through to the console but I think it will work out really well. Electric motor arrived today... hopefully I will have it done by New years!

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Looking really good mate and looking forward to a test run!!!

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Man on a mission!!  Glad to see you've parked it in the 'customer parking' section, should be safe there ........ :whistle:  While I'm being a sticky beak, what have you got brewing? One of these days I'll dust mine off and put one down too. Back to business and it's all looking good mate. I suspect you may end up needing to upgrade the motor if you want to get anywhere fast, based on my tiller steer 4.2m with a 30hp. Particularly with two on board, but time will tell. Might be worth keeping an eye out for good second hand ones that may pop up.

Good luck with the New Years deadline. Oh and what's the anti-corrosive stuff you put on the screws? What sort of screws are you using (ie. stainless?). I'm wondering if I should have used some on mine ......

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20 minutes ago, kmcrosby78 said:

Man on a mission!!  Glad to see you've parked it in the 'customer parking' section, should be safe there ........ :whistle:  While I'm being a sticky beak, what have you got brewing? One of these days I'll dust mine off and put one down too. Back to business and it's all looking good mate. I suspect you may end up needing to upgrade the motor if you want to get anywhere fast, based on my tiller steer 4.2m with a 30hp. Particularly with two on board, but time will tell. Might be worth keeping an eye out for good second hand ones that may pop up.

Good luck with the New Years deadline. Oh and what's the anti-corrosive stuff you put on the screws? What sort of screws are you using (ie. stainless?). I'm wondering if I should have used some on mine ......

If I know @Drop Bear that will be mead brewing using the honey from his own bees. 

Looking good Robbie.

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7 hours ago, kmcrosby78 said:

I suspect you may end up needing to upgrade the motor if you want to get anywhere fast, based on my tiller steer 4.2m with a 30hp. Particularly with two on board, but time will tell. Might be worth keeping an eye out for good second hand ones that may pop up.

I sort of bought the boat thinking I may have to upgrade the motor but hoping I wouldn't have to. What did you end up putting on yours? A second hand one would be nice. I have put in duel 20ltr fuel tanks so can upgrade a bit and still have some range. 

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So quick update. I have been working on it most of the day. Trying not to get any sicaflex on the keyboard.

I reallllllly struggled to get the steering back together... Its a tricky bugger... and I have a spare bush left over :whistle:

Hatches are cut out on the front casting deck and the rear port part of the deck. I put in the new shelf for the electric motor battery and set up the helm. It is all working.... sort of.... the idle throttle arm wont come up... As it is an old motor it is a bit slow to start and I really want that idle to work... I pulled it apart and must have stuffed it up when I put it back... jobs....

Also I realized the old school steering arm bit on the motor doesn't work when it is tilted. Someone has put a little nut into where it connects and and fouls on some of the bracing frame on the tinny. I have made it work. I had to cut out some of the floor sub-frame as it was fouling on that as well. 

@kmcrosby78 All the fixings I am using are Stainless Steel. I read somewhere that they can still anadise with aluminium and you can fix this by dipping them into something like Duralac. There are other products... dunno if this one is better or worse but its the one I bought. More to do tomorrow... 

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Going to be a great set up once finished Rob, well done so far!!  Amazing what you can do to a boat with a couple of bits of ply and some know-how/skills.

Cheers for the info on Duralec. Over the past few months I've now spotted about 6 tiny pin holes on the sides of my boat, all just about the metal 'collar' running along it just above the ribs. Not sure if it's due to electrosis (I need to check the sacrificial anode on my motor is all good - not that I know anything about them ....). I couldn't help but wonder if the structure/screws for the casting deck was leading to the problem. Of course, it could just be that it is 24 years old and starting to show it's age ........

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9 hours ago, kmcrosby78 said:

all just about the metal 'collar' running along it just above the ribs

I also don't know much about corrosion. This is a great article that sums it up a bit.

http://www.clubmarine.com.au/internet/clubmarine.nsf/docs/MG19-5+Technical

But basically if the metal collar you have is steel it will be causing the pin holes. IMHUO it would be best to get rid of it. 

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Good read Rob, ta. Think I'll start a new thread to see if anyone else has info that may help. I know I've left my switch to the sounder on in between trips before so wonder if that has impacted. I do know that the boat didn't have a sounder/battery prior to me using it so there is a reasonable chance the culprit is currently behind this keyboard ..... :whistle: Having said that, I've had it for 6 years.

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