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i think mick fillets mate had 1, yes i said had 1, cos i was told that it broke too, but hey, he was told he didnt have a clue on what he was doin... or so the story goes, only the messenger, so dunno if he got warranty on it, might have to get hold of the fillet man for the answer to that brad, but i'm goin down to see him this week to see if he will warrant the broken rod i bought off him, i bet 1 of you bastards broke it while still in the shop ? lmao.but i'll let ya know what happens.

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i think mick fillets mate had 1, yes i said had 1, cos i was told that it broke too, but hey, he was told he didnt have a clue on what he was doin... or so the story goes, only the messenger, so dunno if he got warranty on it, might have to get hold of the fillet man for the answer to that brad, but i'm goin down to see him this week to see if he will warrant the broken rod i bought off him, i bet 1 of you bastards broke it while still in the shop ? lmao.but i'll let ya know what happens.

Stop whingeing about it on the forum and just call the man to discuss it. I'm sure Mike will sort you out, and for the record we bought 4 rods from Austackle and have nothing but praise for them so far, I'm sure the Rhino stik won't be any different.

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i think mick fillets mate had 1, yes i said had 1, cos i was told that it broke too, but hey, he was told he didnt have a clue on what he was doin... or so the story goes, only the messenger, so dunno if he got warranty on it, might have to get hold of the fillet man for the answer to that brad, but i'm goin down to see him this week to see if he will warrant the broken rod i bought off him, i bet 1 of you bastards broke it while still in the shop ? lmao.but i'll let ya know what happens.

Stop whingeing about it on the forum and just call the man to discuss it. I'm sure Mike will sort you out, and for the record we bought 4 rods from Austackle and have nothing but praise for them so far, I'm sure the Rhino stik won't be any different.

Heard that the rod was replaced without an issue and he has had no troubles with his current one, I'm agreeing here, just let the issue go and sort it out directly with mike via pm's/whatever, the guys were more than reasonable when I dealt with them I'm sure you won't have an issue

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this is what is posted on another thread about the mick's rod .

wesfish wrote:

well by the sounds of it you dont know how to set your drag and it must be fisherman abuse lol i hear thats what mick was told by orca about a rod that snapped on him jj but interested to hear what the reply is for a warranty

Orca wrote :

If you are going to come out with stuff like this at least get your facts correct. It wasnt Micks rod at all that broke..it was a mate of his and it was swapped over under warranty no hassle. It was also a 24kg boat rod not a 4-7kg.

The shape of the break in 99% of the cases will determione if the rod blank has a fault or not. About 1 in 100 rods do have a problem industry wide.

sounds like it was all sorted out .

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didnt realize this many guys had a issue with the rods breaking,

as far as i know brad from reading on AFO its only 2 rods ,mick's mate and rob's.

Both of these rods are high modulus rods and by nature are extremely brittle and easily break under certain circumstances. In 99% of the cases, if a blank has a fault during the maufacturing process it will break with a very even cut as if cut by a razor blade. Micks mates rod indeed sufferted a break like this and was immediately replaced no hassles.

When a carbon rod is subjected to excessive pressure on a particular point it will break. The break in 99% of cases will display a very rough and splintered shape. Any rod that is presented to us with a break like this is generally refused a claim under warranty unless some additional evidence is presented by the customer.

In rare cases where the customer beleives that the rod is faulty despite displaying the type of splintered break decribed above, we will send the rod back to the factory to be examined under x-ray which will 100% prove one way or another if there was a fault in the blank.

One of the most common causes of splintered breaks occurring is by people using line strengths in excess of the rod rating and having too much drag set when a fish hits. For example, a 6-10kg rod is designed to be fished with line of no more than 10kg. Max drag setting is 5kg and strike drag setting about 3kg. Casting weight is no more than maybe 60 grams. Rememeber this has nothing to do with how strong a rod is - carbon is extremely strong in a longitudinal direction - it is all to do with how much "shock" a blank is designed to withstand.

The Rhino Stick is a completely different thing. 4 years ago at the AFTA trade show it was voted the strongest rod ever seen in this country. They come with a 10 year blank warranty and no fish will ever break one. The only way these rods can be broken is if they are high sticked and too much pressure is put on the join between where the solid tip meets the hollow section. This never happens under normal fishing conditions only by misuse by the angler..

We have sold literally thousands of Rhino Stiks all around Australia and New Zealand and have never had a warranty claim on the blank. I think this speaks for itself. They are very popular with Charter Boat operators due to their strength and toughness and ability to withstand some of the rough treatment that punters tend to dish out.

Regards

Mike Cole (Orca)

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thinking of buying a rhino rod from aus-tackel,has anyone brought one if so what are they like,and what is the cost i have forgoten the price,and do you get any kind of warrenty with them,wanting to get something by the end of next week.

Brad

Please see my previous answer about Rhino Stiks

Cheers

Mike

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i think mick fillets mate had 1, yes i said had 1, cos i was told that it broke too, but hey, he was told he didnt have a clue on what he was doin... or so the story goes, only the messenger, so dunno if he got warranty on it, might have to get hold of the fillet man for the answer to that brad, but i'm goin down to see him this week to see if he will warrant the broken rod i bought off him, i bet 1 of you bastards broke it while still in the shop ? lmao.but i'll let ya know what happens.

It wasnt a Rhino Stik - it was an IM7 Graphite Boat rod and yes he did get a warranty on it no hassles at all.

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i know what your saying here mick but IM6 graphite blank is by no means a high modulous blank, it's lower end actually, as far as graphite is concerned, just sayin is all, this isnt a dig. high sticking is also a no no.

Graphite was invented by Britain for aerospace technology. High modulus graphite fishing rods were introduced to the fishing world by Fenwick in 1973. Graphite is a carbon fiber which comes from the residue of crude oil, post-refining sludge that is extruded into polyacrylic nitrate fibers. There follows a series of baking operations and other procedures to accomplish the making of graphite rods.

Graphite is the most common rod material today, and is the lightest and strongest material. However, there are many varieties of graphite, depending on manufacturing quality and process, and thus graphite rods range widely in cost. Graphite rods, especially higher-end models, tend to be thin and a susceptible to breaking if they are chipped, scratched, or cracked.

The first thing you should know is there is no industry standard for IM6, IM7and IM8. Rather, it’s a “range†that manufacturers use to classify their rods according to the “modulus†content. Modulus is a term that describes the stiffness to weight ratio of the graphite that’s used to create the rod blank.

Here’s how it works….when you cast a lure, the rod flexes with the weight of the lure, storing energy as it flexes. When the motion of the rod stops, the rod flexes and releases all of its stored energy to propel the lure. When you increase the modulus of the graphite, you increase the ability of that graphite to store and release energy. You also increase the speed that the rod releases the stored energy. That in turn, increases the lure speed that is generated in the cast. Increase the modulus and you increase the reaction speed and power of the rod blank.

Below is a general example of modulus ratings

47 million modulus (IM8)

42 million modulus (IM7)

40 million modulus (IM6)

Standard Graphite - 33 million modulus

Unfortunately, increased modulus results in increased costs. The highest modulus graphite material costs as much as ten times more than standard graphite. The drawback with increased modulus is the rod blank tends to be somewhat “brittle†and more likely to break from impact fracture, such as dropping the rod on a hard surface. If you tend be abusive with your gear, it would be wise to back away from the top modulus rods and choose something in the mid range that will offer more durability.

IM6 is a 'Grade' of Magnamite, a graphite product of Hercules Inc. BASF makes a similar product, as well as others. The important thing about IM6, IM7, IM8 ratings for fishing applications is the tensile modulus. Most dept. store rods that are graphite composites are around 30-35 million psi tensile modulus. The IM is a shorthand for that tensile rating. IM6 = 40 million IM7 = 42 million IM8 = 47 million

Tensile modulus briefly is: (Courtesy Owens-Corning) "When a bar is pulled in tension, it has to get longer. The tensile modulus is used to calculate how much longer it will get when a certain load is applied to it. Units are normally millions of pounds per square inch. Higher numbers indicate materials which will not elongate as much as others when they are being compared under equal tensile loading conditions." That elongation, or elasticity, is what allows the rod to spring and bend back.

So (grossly oversimpifying) a rod made of IM6 can be built with similar strength and flex characteristics to a rod that uses cheaper material, while making the tube wall thinner, which in theory makes the rod lighter and more sensitive.

Exactly how the material is laid up in the blank, whether any other material (other graphite composites, fiberglass, aramid and gel-spun polys for instance) the taper, length, all go towards making a good blank. These things also affect the action (fast or slow taper). Then to make a good rod, you have to worry about the seat and handle, and how it's connected, guide material and so on.

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Question answered. Thread edited and locked.

Rob, Please refer to the site's terms of use. You are way off the mark.

Reminder to everyone that if you see something you feel is outside the terms of use, please just hit the report to mod button and withhold your opinion....it can just make issues worse.

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