home made fuel cell

[mottly crew]

advice needed im planning to make my own fuel cell out of ally just wondering if i need to line the inside of the tank with anything is the ally going to slowly turn the fuel funny cus i now that ally is toxic to humans but not sure about petrol.

should i put baffles inside the tank to stop the fuel slopping around or is it going to be fine and do i need a breather line to stop vappors from builling up if its under the deck of a open tinnie.

advice muchly appreciated.

[baheath]

I think you mean fuel tank - not "fuel cell" as fuel cells actually generate (or convert) fuels.

I can't see any technical reason why you couldn't use aluminium to make a fuel tank - there are plenty of them on trucks running around town. Aluminium doesn't affect hydrocarbon fuels - I'd be a bit suspect about E10 (but you shouldn't use that in a boat anyway).

There is a legal reason that could cause you a problem, however - a home-made tank probably won't meet Australian Standards unless it's made by a certified engineer and has a compliance plate attached, so if you have a fire on board, your insurance will most likely be void.

[rayke1938]

Plenty of ally fabricators make them up to custom fit different areas in your hull. Anything over 20l capacity I would be thinking of baffle plates mainly to reinforce the tank to combat expansion.

If you have a long filler pipe you will need a breather pipe to stop the fuel blowing back as you fill the tank.

How skilled are you at ally welding?

If not competent I would recommend getting it fabricated as you do not want welds cracking in use and filling the bilge with fuel.

Cheers

Ray

[mottly crew]

no probs on the welding side im a boilermaker by trade so got that coverd and im currently working with ally so i can get my skill up to scratch i didnt think about the insurance side of it good call on that one.

i will talk to the boss and see if his mate can get it certified for me

[Bi_polar]

You shouldn't need it certified but make sure you run a big breather as Ray said.

I like to make mine out of 3mm and nothing thinner and a couple i have put 5mm or 6mm tops in just so i can cut holes and tap threads for sender units and stuff but you can just cut rings out to do that also.

Baffles are a must i reconbut make your cut outs at the bottom and top of the tank a reasonable size so you dont get fuel build up in each cell.

Once you have finished if you can chuck some water in it and put some VERY VERY low pressure in it to check for leaks.

And when fitting it to the boat just sit it on some rubber strips

good luck

[faulked]

i found sika excelent for mounting tanks if large enough to be semi permanent if you have a leak pin hole type smack it with a ball pein it should stop in one hit depending on the shape of your hull i have a very large stainless tank that fits right up the front it takes a woping 100l of fuel so makes the nose quite heavy at first id happily sell it cheap as my tinny is now electric and i have way to many fuel tanks.

jason

[shortie]

Certification not necessary unless boat is under survey

Breather yes

Baffles depending on take size shape
/>http://www.australianfishing.com.au/forum/62-boating/181202-fuel-tank-finally-finished?limit=20&start=20#411439

[fishingnut]

Instead of welding in baffles there is a also a foam that u stick in Fuel tanks to stop the "sloshing" effect

[Binder4]

I'd be more worried about working out a fool proof way of filling it with no chance of getting fuel in the bilges.

Similarly if you have a breather pipe ( or a vented cap) want to make sure it cant release fuel fumes in to the bilge.

Otherwise we might be seeing you on the 6 o'clock news!

[regulated]

Just pop one of those vents in that vent through the side of the hull if your happy popping a hole in the boat. Mine works fine.

Are you welding up any other stuff. I've been thinking of getting someone to make up an ally live bait tank. The beer keg works fine for yakka's and slimeys but anything larger or if you bleed your fish out in it its too small. Lost a lot of pike a few trips ago due to them being massive.

[Bi_polar]

Although very impractle in small boat.... round live bait tanks are the best for big livies like slimies and pike as they dont bash into corners and can swim in circles but high water flow is important too as they stress alot and soil the water very quickly.

[regulated]

Its fits well in the back corner but they were just monster pike. They were bigger than the diameter of the 30L keg so were always bent really bad. Be good to have a few more litres to load up on bait. Seem to loose a lot when sharkes and dolphins are around.

I don't think flow would be much of a problem. Probably have 3-400GPH with a 30-50cm rise on the 500GPH pump.

A larger tank will also help offset the weight of a deckie sitting on the other side.

[pancakes_and_haggis]

well, you asked me to catch pike, so i did!

as ive been taught so well by mark lately, BIG BAIT BIG FISH!!

[mottly crew]

i can but you will have to supply material ass we have very limited supply actually no plate at all i get it from a mate who steels it from his work when its available and just rememberd we dont have a tig only mig wich will make the welds look like pelicn poo

[regulated]

haha cheers anyway mate. Have a bloke up the sunny coast who said he'll do it when he's free. He has a tig but isnt a welder so it will probably look like poo anyway lol

[mottly crew]

no worry;s fuel tank may end up as live well depending on the test welds not that i dont trust my welds but me fuel dont play well together :pinch: hot burn singe if ya now wat i mean :woohoo:

[muzz]

I've made a few fuel tanks over the years being a sheety. I always use a TIG. MIG's are good for welding up 10mm gaps, but you need a TIG for the finess.

When your welding up the tank make sure that you have a hole in the tank itself to let out the hot air and gases. Usually 10mm, say in the spot where you will be putting a breather, outlet or intake.

If you fail to do this, you will not be able to finish the welding as all of the gases will be trying to escape through your weld pool.

I check all of my tanks for leaks with pressurized air and soapy water. Where ever there s a pin hole the soapy water will start to foam up. Mark those spot with a permanent marker and re-weld. Check again.

Flush out with water to get rid of the swarf, then pour methylated spirits in to get rid of any remaining water. Metho evaporates taking the water with it.

When fitting, use an inline fuel filter between the tank and your primary filter, just in case there is any swarf remaining. I would do this for any new boat purchased. Just to be sure as you can see the guts of an inline without dismantle and they are cheap.

Any questions PM me.

Muzz