boat refit

[Terry H]

Hmmm I think I'll take the seat on the right

Brian - is that last pic the frame for a tank? Am I at least on the right track in thinking it goes at the back of the boat on either side of the motor

[Feral]

Brian D wrote:

Guess what this is? Or what it is going to be? [img size=461]http://www.australianfishing.com.au/media/kunena/attachments/legacy/images/back.JPG

Well it looks like chipboard, so I'd say confetti? (in a couple of weeks)

[Brian D]

You got the spot right but way off on the \"what is it\"

I need to glass it then gel coat it then bolt it onto the transom step.

By the way - the only chance of the seat on the right is to get a licence to drive it.

Feral Not even cose and I expected more from you. It's 22mm Structual ply leftover from the floor of the cannon ball. I wall is doubled with marina grade expoxy as well as brass screws.

Post edited by: Brian D, at: 2007/04/10 23:05

[Feral]

Actually I thought it was a mount for your electric, but Terry got me confused, does not look like a live bait tank!.

I have sussed out how I am going to make a stepped down mount for a front electric for the Silver Bullet. (Bow is 80cm above the water, and no electric motor currently within my budget is long enough for that!) I'll be putting it on this saturday if I get time after putting in my water tank. Then Ferg and I will give it a trial run at Baroon Sunday with Ferg's electric on the front!

Which reminds me, have you checked your Electric shaft length against the mounting possie to make sure the motor will go far enough into the water? Best is for blades to totally be below bottom of boat to get clean water feed!

(Terry tell Brian, you can drive it as long as someone in the boat is licensed and sober!)

[Brian D]

Yeap it's going to be a mount for electric.

I have checked shaft length and all is sweet

I'll test it at Glenlyon and have it perfect for Awoonga. I might even get a 102lb and run 24volt but we'll see, I only want it for postioning so 54lb might be enough.

[Feral]

Should be more than adequate.

[Brian D]

Well take a last look at this little baby because I am going to cut the top off, remove the glass bow, put in a casting deck and a new floor, with an electric bow mount, glass in 2 live wells, remove the under gunwale storage and a few other things.

Hope I don't stuff it up.

[Feral]

You gunna do all this in 9 weeks? Or you taking the cannonball to Awoonga?

[Brian D]

It could be done in 2 months but I doubt I will get it finished, so I think the cannon ball will be going north. Looking for a new motor now.

The floor, gunwhales and deck will be done by a pro, all I'll have to do is the crappy work. Like cutting of the top, removing the timber handles and sanding.

Tell you what, I could do with your timber skills. so be prepared for 100 questions.

The dash board will be cut down the centre and around the front to form a side consol which means I'll have to make a side board and a front for the cockpit. Should not need to rewire anthing.

It will be getting glassed over so it doesn't have to be supper neat, but it has to be strong. The strength will be helped by butting the casting deck to the front side of the consol.

The casting deck should not be a problem as under the bow are glass supports that are allready level so all I got to do is strengthen them enough to hold my fat ass, then cut the top bow section off and slip in a deck. The pro will do the electric mounting and glassing. Carpet on the inside deck with some storage underneath.

The 2 back seats will have glass moulded inserts to fit the live bait tanks to the same hight as the existing sides, then plumbed through the transom section and out the existing deck drainage holes. Easy for a pro, but could be a little tricky for me.

The deck is my only concern. I kinda think it sould be done first but as it is reasonable condition, it may not need to be done, but I would like to make sure the stringers are solid before cutting the top section off the bow.

What are you doing next week?:woohoo: Just kidding.

For a step by step guide to what I am doing go to F&B issue 133. That's Fisherman and Boat Owner.

Cool project. Should cost about $2500 tops.

Post edited by: Brian D, at: 2007/08/19 18:19

[Feral]

Sounds like you have it well planned - Ray is the wood work expert, wood hates me!

[faulked]

hi brian i have a 2 hp petrol outboard you could test on the back of your boat i tried it on the back of my 15ft nautiglass and was dissapointed yet it almost planes my canoe i thought id get 4 ish knots but barely got 2

[Brian D]

Thanks faulked but I am looking at a Honda or Yammy 20-25 4stroke for the cannon ball, maybe a Susuki depends how the $$ fall. I'm thinking Yammy cause I know a dealer and I have a Yammy on the cruise craft.

kinda hoping I can do a contra at work for the glass work. That would be cool.

[Brian D]

Brian D wrote:

woops sorry wrong size [img size=461]http://www.australianfishing.com.au/media/kunena/attachments/legacy/images/back1.JPG

Bump for Brian the Pom

This is with the 4 single seats configeration, you can't see them but there are 2 padded seats at the back.

[Brian D]

kazabri wrote:

still trying to sort out the photo's [img size=472]http://www.australianfishing.com.au/media/kunena/attachments/legacy/images/boatcover.JPGPost edited by: Brian D, at: 2006/07/23 20:45

This is with the single seat configeration and the lid on for rainy or extra hot days.

[Fisher_90]

And the old motor.

[Brian D]

Yeap new motor is the 60hp 4 stroke that uses less then half the fuel with a top speed of about 58kph. Fast enough to rip the skin off your feet while skiing bare foot:S

BTW it is registered to carry 6 peoples