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boat refit


Brian D

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Wont worry the fish finder at all. You might want to not put it right over the sender unit, on the Captains fresh water boat, the sensor is about 2 foot from the electric motor and it causes no problems at all.

The motor will move the boat ok, but pretty slowly. A few hundred metres would not be a problem, but much further and you would need a cut lunch!

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Easy fix, Rocketlaunchers!! ive got 8 over my head, 2x2 rodholders at the back of my boat and another 2 on each side of my bait board, Thats 16 rods and none of them get in the way.

I will post sum pics when i get a chance.

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  • 1 month later...

Yeah Mick - it is fixable - the water pump crapped itself - but then when it was realy hot the head made some very ugly sounds so I don't want it any more - lost faith in it. Trade in I got $2500 as is. It is worth maybe $3500.

But here's the thing - I am keeping the boat so I want a good motor. But after all is said and done the total cost from refit is about $13k but for that I get a new 4 stroke motor, new delux trailer, new seat, carpet, lights, GPS, esky, bait boxes, anchor, etc and a set of steak knives. But most of all I get a boat that I know inside and out and I trust.

Also I can convert it from a single persons fishing boat to a family runabout in about half an hour. Although with the 4stroke it will be crap for skiiing.

Should last another 10 years I hope.

I dropped it at the Doctors on Friday (29/9) and hope to pick it up next week end. I asked the guy to take some before, during and after shots - hope he does.

Then I have to spend time running the new motor in - Any volunteers?

Post edited by: Brian D, at: 2006/09/30 06:02

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As a personal log and to do list - this is next on the list.

2nd battery to be fitted

Cabin Lights need to be re-wired

Live bait tank need to be fixed into place and pump/airerater wired to aux battery.

Duel battery charging needs to be configured and sorted.

Need a new sounder.

Forward Casting deck needs to be railed and matted.

Re-locate landing ladder

Horizontial rod rack needs refining

Need to finish fitting trailer to hull - may need to move axcel after new motor is fitted

Change winch on new trailer

Bracket for spare tyre

Security chains on spare tyres and trailer

Will it never end?

Post edited by: Brian D, at: 2006/10/02 10:34

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Got my baby back today - took it for a test drive with the blokes from Yatala Yamaha to get the run down on things. The boat certianly feels different with the new donk - for better - I am not sure yet but for that money I bloody hope so.

It starts nice - no smoke and idles great - troll speed is at 2knots ( barra perfect).

Don't know what top speed is yet but I feel it will be a lot less then the old 2 stroke. I have dropped down in HP but got the high thrust gear box and bigger prop.

At least I am aqua mobile again.

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Brian,

Just got my monthly email from Withworth Marine, they have battery relays on special if your interested

http://www.whitworths.com.au/main_itemdetail.asp?cat=123&item=84427&intAbsolutePage=1

And perhaps for your spare you might like to try and see if one of these will fit your new trailer

http://www.whitworths.com.au/main_itemdetail.asp?cat=138&item=91075&intAbsolutePage=1

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Hey Reefie the old was 70 Johnson 2 stroke new is Yammy 60 4 stroke. :ohmy: Going backwards. But all the other 4 stokes were too heavy(Sus, merc and honda) and the etech were toooo $$$ 11500! So I gotta live with it.

Feral thanks - I might just do that - but not this week - I'll be lucky to have enough money left for petrol! How good does that look. I think I can connect the relay connect the between the cranking battery and the 2nd battery and all the toys come off the 2 battery, which is charged and recharged when the motor is under power. No turning knobs or swhitches - all auto? Sound too good to be true! Have I got it right!

Post edited by: Brian D, at: 2006/10/06 08:08

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Say good bye to the old dash. woops photo didn't work - I'll have to sort the photos out soon.

New motor is not what I hoped for. It starts like a car - beautiful, no smoke, no primming - just turn the key. It's has a bit of a rattle on idle speed and more noise then expected and advised.

Also it's down on top end speed by 30%. I used to get 29-32knotts now I get 19.5knots! yuk yuk yuk. That is not what they told me - quote "it'll be a bit slower off the mark but you'l loose very little if anything on top end speed" unquote. 30% is not little. not happy.

Does anyone know anything about props and set up? Surely something is wrong!

UPDATE -spoke with motor bloke and he is going to help solve problem starting with fitting a new prop on Sat.

This is what it looks like now!

[img size=300]http://www.australianfishing.com.au/media/kunena/attachments/legacy/images/stickers.jpg

post-118-144598402044_thumb.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Far out - the new prop has fixed things - that guy (Paul) from Yatala Yamaha really know his stuff. Turns out the prop he asked to be fitted didn't get done so he changed it himself and the boat is better then ever now.

He also taught me heaps about pitch and size of props and what happens for why it does.

Anyway - noise and rattle is gone, top end speed is back (26knots cruising speed) and take off is nippy. It feels very stong and almost \"ox like\". It ploughs through the chop and swell of open bay 30 knot winds without missing a beat, it grips down low and pushes when it has to.

It's friggin great.

It trolls at around 3knots almost siltently and idles dead quiet. I can hear the water outlet above the noise of the motor.

So far I've done 7 hrs travel and used about 22 ltrs of petrol - it'll pay for itself.

I am so stoked - the boat is almost perfect now - what a difference a prop makes.

Awoonga will be good.

Post edited by: Brian D aka Chilly D, at: 2006/10/15 20:32

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Glad to hear its sorted Brian!

Props can make a huge difference to performance. New trailer looks schimko as well!

It looks like your tie down straps go over the rear, is that correct? (Would make it easier on my boat if I did that!)

Post edited by: Feral, at: 2006/10/16 04:17

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Feral wrote:

Glad to hear its sorted Brian!

Props can make a huge difference to performance. New trailer looks schimko as well!

It looks like your tie down straps go over the rear, is that correct? (Would make it easier on my boat if I did that!)<br><br>Post edited by: Feral, at: 2006/10/16 04:17

Yeah Feral - I didn't know how much of a difference till I got first hand experence - I learn most things that way - sort of can't be told syndrome!

Trailer is great now - the guys at Yatala Yamaha set it up for free when they did the motor.

Good old fashion service.

Here's a close up of the straps - they are real easy to use - real quick. [img size=285]http://www.australianfishing.com.au/media/kunena/attachments/legacy/images/straps.jpg

Post edited by: Brian D, at: 2006/10/16 19:22

post-118-144598402076_thumb.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...

Yeap hope so

Also I look forward to doing some \"down rigging in the river\". - If all goes to plan that will be my first article for BF. ;)

But I gotta catch fish consistantly before anything I write is believable. I feel in this SP craze the art of trolling a river has almost dissapeared.

Post edited by: Brian D, at: 2006/11/06 07:37

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  • 1 month later...

I was planning to put a bracket about here to take a transom mounted electric motor.

I was also thinking about doubling it as a live well when the motor is not needed.

Does anyone have any ideas as to best set up and best place to get it made?

It's about 250mm deep, 350mm wide and 350mm high.

[img size=428]http://www.australianfishing.com.au/media/kunena/attachments/legacy/images/100_0569.jpg

Post edited by: Brian D, at: 2006/12/14 06:03

post-118-144598403704_thumb.jpg

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I'd reckon you could make a frame that can hold the motor, that a bucket slips into when you want to keep bait there, it is only a small tank 350 x 350, I reckon I might have access to some square buckets about that size (with lid), I'll have to check next time I use one. Cut a hole in top of the bucket lip so water flows out off the back of the boat, but lid still fits on, put a pump to continually fill the bucket with fresh water (overflow going out through hole and over edge).

Motor would be a long way from the water though. You might be better off using a scissor mount similar to the one Ray has on his glass boat, and doing something for livies elsewhere.

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Brian you are going to hate me ,but apart from using an auxilary engine mount on the stern which will extend 34cm from the stern when lowered, you are going to be up for some expensive fibreglass work to build a live bait pod that you can attach the electric to or try to negioate with the store you got your electric from and trade it on a bow mount remote control electric.

With the auxillary mount or the fibreglass pod you are going to have a problem using the electric.

Try and see how far you can reach over the stern to use it comfortably.

With a remote control you have the advantage of being able to steer and control the electric from anywhere you put the foot control.

I personally recommend a minnkota with food control it has an electric cable attached to the motor that you can move anywhere in the boat and you can maneuver the boat whilst fighting a fish without taking your hands off the rod and reel.

I have a friend who has a radio control minnkota and he wishes he had the foot control.

The motorguide remote control unit is also foot control but the steering is by mechanical cables connected to the foot control and is not as flexible in use as the minnkota.

There is a firm at ormiston that specialise in fibreglass repairs and modifications. they have been there for over 40 years that I know of so they must be doing something right.

Bayside Rainbow Fibreglass

99 Gordon st

Cleveland

3286 4336

Ray

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Yeah Ray I understand what your saying and I considered most but I don't want to do that.:P

At this stage I am only owming 1 electric and I want to be able to move it to a punt with ease so the bow mount is out for the momment.

I only want to use the electric on the cruise craft to move about 20 feet or for positioning ie backing up on stumbs.

The reach thing has me worried a bit so I'll have a look when I am allowed to open the box. It should be OK as inside the transom is a seat so it's a matter of sitting down and turning the handle.

THanks for the tip about the fiberglass company - I'll look them up.

On a lighter note - where can I get one of those remote food controlers - sounds like a great little toy!:laugh:

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  • 2 weeks later...

kezza99 wrote:

Please excuse my amateur question, but what exactly is a down rgger used for?.....i have seen them before but never bothered to actually look at what they do?

Yeah Kezza like Terry says - you can get a lure down to 100 foot deep or more.

But the rule is don't use a deep diver lure - just use a shallow swimming lure.

First see how it swims on the surface, then attach it to the bomb with a cloths peck like clip and wind it down to the desired depth. allowing about 1/3 for slack line depending on the speed.

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  • 3 months later...

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