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My new project - 4.9 tinnie


Feral

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Of course its a stainless cotter pin! welding rods are dearer!

well she is registered, QP475Q if you see me out and about in her.

Commissioned the graphic artist for the stern picture today, she is working on concepts now. Probably get the work of art done after Lenthalls!

Going for a stern pic because it is a clean sheet of new alluminium, which means if I ever get around to painting over the stuffed paint on the rest of the boat, I can leave the stern (and picture) as is.

I have scrounged enough Marine carpet and ply to redo the seats and center floor section, might do it this weekend, as weather (wind) looks to crook to have a decent fish.

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Well choice was carpet or paint. Ferg and I debated it, and turns out we both hate carpet, particulary when lure fishing! So carpet goes in shed, floor got painted!

Old floor was pretty poorly fitted, so what we did was rip each sheet of the old floor up the middle, then we pushed the halves out to touch the sides, then screwed a bit of waste ply up the guts to make our floor template. [img size=500]http://www.australianfishing.com.au/media/kunena/attachments/legacy/images/P1050671.jpg

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  • 2 months later...

Well its been a while since I got the Silver Bullet sea worthy.

I figured a quick update on changes made, and plans for the near future was in order!

I've put some rod holders in the back, one angled to hold a beach umbrella for the kids

I have acquired a second set of 160 amp batteries, (Thats 4 x 160amp 6 volt batteries at 38 kilo's each! in the boat now)and retired the pair of 12 volt 40's to the shed. That makes 320amps of juice on board (Fishing saturday saw me using two motors off one battery set, 7am to 2:30pm, still had 60% juice in that bank, had not touched the other bank). One bank is under the back seat one under the front seat. I figure the two banks will give me 2 days of electric fishing without having to find power to charge.

I have run an underfloor dual wire (I dont use the boat as the earth) from front to back, (rated 60amp continuous use)with Anderson plugs at each end so I can use either battery bank to power motors at either end of the boat.

This has unbalanced the trailer, so I am planning on removing the welded axle and guard mounts, and putting them on a movable mount to allow easy trimming of the tow ball down weight. (Currently 96 kilo's in current configuration, want to lower it to about 60).

I have put a second self centering roller under the mid section of the boat, just to help keep it straight as it winches on.

I've also replaced one hub with a new galvanised unit, and will do the same for the other side before this years Awoonga trip.

The 25HP is still in Ray's shed awaiting assembly (repairs completed), and the 2nd 6hp is in Ferg's shed in bits! Strewth 3 petrol motors I can choose between!

I am currently using Ferg's 28lber as my second motor, but will be getting another Kmart 54lber next time they have a 30% off everything sale! I will probably continue to run the two motors of the rear, the transom is wide enough for this.

I am still to work out some sort of permanent mount for the sounder, it is fairly easy to use as a portable unit, so no great pressure as yet!

I need to work out if I need to fix the broken stays in the floor before using the 25HP, and how.

I'll have a couple of fresh deckies on Anzac day to suggest other improvements!

Post edited by: Feral, at: 2007/04/16 19:09

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What a pearler of a thread to read from start to finish. Some damn fine problem solving skills have gone in to completing this masterpice.

I was expecting an all up tally at the end, but all I could find was 'about $700 to get her seaworthy'.

Have you neglected to mention the $4235.50 it probably cost in liquid refreshments, mostly consumed during the planning stages....LOL

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Well I just cant leave it alone! When I put the new batteries in the boat a month or two back, it basically added 80 kilo's under the front seat. It have been great for the trim of the boat in the water, but not so great on the trailer!

Effectively it had increased the draw bar weight on the tow ball from 80 kilo's to 96 kilo's. Which is to heavy.

It is an unbraked trailer, so draw bar weight should ideally be no more than about 75 kilo's, (maximum 10% of maximum trailer weight) also the tow bar on my Camry is only rated to take 90 kilo's draw bar weight.

So I have been procrastinating, but finally got around to doing something about it yesterday. I moved the trailer axle forward, effectively shifting the load further to the rear.

I had all these good intentions of making it all adjustable, so I could move the axle at a whim, to where ever I liked.

But when I got it all stripped down and saw how much work was involved (mainly grinding off all the old mounts) I decided easiest way was to leave original mounting points and add a second set.

That way, the axle was moved,but I have two locations I can mount the axle, about 30cm apart. (You know so If I decide a 200hp motor might be the go, I can put the axle back towards the rear again!)

I just cut off the mudguard mounts, leaving an inch or so sticking out, so I can bolt the guards to the bit sticking out. However being lazy, I figure I would just weld on the new mounts as one piece, then cut them off if I move the axle back in the same way (saved on going down the hardware for the bolts! ).

This pic shows old guard mounts and old rear shackle

[img size=500]http://www.australianfishing.com.au/media/kunena/attachments/legacy/images/Rear_shackle_mount.jpg

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You may notice I trimmed the step off the back of the guards, this is because with the axle in the new position, getting into the boat from where the step would have moved to would have been awkward over the top of rod holders etc.

I will use the original rear guard mount to mount a seperate step from the guard. [img size=500]http://www.australianfishing.com.au/media/kunena/attachments/legacy/images/guard_before_trimming.jpg

Post edited by: Feral, at: 2007/07/08 05:50

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While I was at it, I fixed another issue, when we originally built the trailer, we never added any strap mounts for holding down the boat, I have just been using rope around the chassis rail, but due to the shape of the boat the strap tended to slip towards the back of the boat, sliding the rope along the trailer chassis rail.

Now I have added some strap mounts, which should stop that!

You can also see the old rear guard mount I will be turning into a step, (probably today)

[img size=500]http://www.australianfishing.com.au/media/kunena/attachments/legacy/images/strap_mount.jpg

Post edited by: Feral, at: 2007/07/08 05:44

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So Draw bar weight is down to 55kilo's (with the 6HP johno on the back). That gives me plenty of leeway for loading up the boat when we go away, and still staying under my legal tow bar weight.

By the way if your wondering why my trailer and boat are covered in mud, you've never been to Lenthalls!

Post edited by: Feral, at: 2007/07/08 05:42

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  • 6 months later...

Feral wrote:

Anderson Plugs everywhere!

All batteries, the motor and the main battery charger all have Anderson plugs, so swapping about from battery to battery or to charger takes seconds, and cant be done incorrectly!

The charger connections in the photo belong to a small one I am only using short term, so I can charge the backup batteries at the same time as the main batteries. I have got a better charger lined up that is auto switching that will get the Anderson plug, and be used for the backup batteries.

[img size=500]http://www.australianfishing.com.au/media/kunena/attachments/legacy/images/anderson_plugs_everywhere.jpg

Bump for Rocket - strap over top of batteries screwed into floor.

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