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My ReFit has begun.....First run results posted


bigtez

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The carpet doesn't get any hotter then dark grey and dark blue carpet, on account of the amount of surface area the fibres have to disipate heat. While there is airflow under the top it makes absolutely no difference what colour it is. The air has to sit under it for a while to get hot.

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  • 2 weeks later...

While work is a little bit quieter at the moment....apparently. I took the arvo off and hit the Pine River for the first time in a couple of months. Before heading out though I removed the foil from the motor. After playing with the trim, no elec t'n't, it topped out at 50km/h at WOT but still sounds like it isn't struggling and getting out of the hole is still quicker then befor ethe refit. Might order a new prop this week and try and get a few more clicks out of her.

Was nice doing the long run from the mouth up into the south pine in comfort instead of hanging on tight to the tiller. I have sussed out a new lot of rod holders to go on the bimini top that won't interfere with the back casting platform. I have also lowered it by 100mm but haven't put it on the boat yet. Expect to see some more pics soon.

Terry

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After talking to stinger after the Bream and Squire comp about a top on his mako I got thinking about the main issue with tops on side consoles. You either need a top that is too high to provide reasonable shade on the boat so that it will fold out of the way or a low top that isn't in the way when casting lures but has to be up (or in a targa sock) to keep it from taking up the back deck. I came up with a solution and as usual my boat became the test dummy.

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The top is about 1100mm higher then the deck from memory. You do have to bend down when under it but it provides excellent shade. When standing on the back deck it is about waist high which means it is out of the way when casting lures and is a good grab rail when wank boarders and container ships go past.

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  • 4 weeks later...

hey tez, im thinking of buying a basic 4mtr tinnie and doind something very similar to your boat, do you recommend taking the bench seats out completly or just taking the centre out and leaving the sides in, im thinking of puting my live well in the rear seat and then the front having the centre taken off and putting in 2 storage areas in there?

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Buy one without thwart seats and it won't be an issue. Also an unpainted hull will be much easier to work with when it comes time to weld in more framework.

If you are after a stessco then checkout the OzCrafts at Kratzmann's. Same boat with different stickers. Here is a 4.2 S/C we did a bimini for a while ago. From memory these were around the $12k mark painted with everything on them already. If you don't mind the tiller steer there is no reason why they shouldn't be able to build you the same boat without the console and fwd controls.


/>http://boatcanopies.com.au/Sports%20Biminis.html

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looks pretty sweet, yeah i pretty much just want a basic tinnie so i can build it to a decent river bream boat my self and save in coin will only have about 7k to spend straight up, sont even want lights on it want to fit everything myself so it is setup the way i want it, was thinking of making a live well similar to stu's dam boat if ya can remember it from the thread. tiller doesnt bother me as will only have a 30 on it so no need for power tilt and stuff and will leave me more room unless i get over it then i put a sporty lookin side console in and change the steering my self from memory i dont think the steering kits are that expensive?

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If you can find a boat that is close to the layout you want and order it as a bare hull (ie no paint or floor boards). The more structure you can get the apprentice at the factory to weld in for $5/hr the less you have to pay a welder at $60+/hr.

In the end the only structural change I have put in is extending the rear platform. The front is as it came from the factory but I have made use of all the room under the floor instead of just a small portion.

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