Which Isolator Switch

[reelchippy]

Which isolator switch do you use as there are lots on the market say in

BIAS CAT

My boat is a 5m tinne with 50hp i run

1.GPS

2.Sounder

3.VHF

4.Live Bait pump

5.CD Player

6.Bilge pump

Ps Battery 1 Starting Battery 2 to run all acc

would like to mount the switch near the transom in the weather

Thanks for any comment cheers

[Feral]

Do you want the \"Key\" type or is a switch unit ok?

The keyed ones work well, are not really that secure because you can jam pliers etc up in them to get them on (Brian can attest to that!) but it is some form of security. The switch ones offer no security, but often have the facility to run two battery's and swap between the two.

I dont run an isolator, everything is on its own fuse with its own switch. (Mounted near the battery banks). I've got a switch unit thats been sitting in the shed for years (actually bought it for my 4WD a long time ago) but cant be bothered installing it. I run 4 deep cycle batteries, and the only thing I leave powered (although switched off at the unit) is my sounder, buts because she is quit old, and the on board battery is dead and I cant be bothered reseting everything to my favourite settings each time I go fishing. So there is no chance of running the batteries flat.

I think they start at 50amp models, which should be more than enough for what your running, so you pretty much have an open choice.

I have noticed that most people who run the key type ones mount them near the control box, I suppose it is in easy reach while your driving if you need an emergency shutdown (but I suspect more likely so you can be cool and turn it on with out anyone noticing you just tried to start your boat while the isolator switch was still switched off!)

[CrayfishMates]

You have to watch the crank amps of the motor you have. I talked with my marine mechanic about isolator switches and he had concerns that even the 200amp ones, with ignition protection would break down quite quickly. This is the auto ones I am talking about. He said the 200amp ones will do the job but you need the ones built in an aluminium heat sink so they cool down quickly from start.

Most if no all the manual key switches can handle a 500amp high current (starting) for a max of 10 seconds and a continuous current of 100amp. For those with bigger than 80 odd horse these switches may fail. Check with the engine manufacturer about the charge amps and crank amps of your motor before selecting an isolator.

If you are using a auto switching set up you will want some regulation between the two batteries so that the engine does not overcharge or you do not overdrain the batteries.

Anyway you all probably know this. I am just working through the motions in my head as I have not worked mine out yet.

One of these would do the job if you want manual (get them for around 30-50bucks [img size=400]http://www.australianfishing.com.au/media/kunena/attachments/legacy/images/switch1.JPG

[faulked]

my merc 85 powered boat came with one like crayfish pictured in black i rewired the boat when i got it i saw nothing wrong internally so i used this it has been 100percent efficient so far its sort of mounted out of the worst of the weather and i love it it protects me from flat batery itus

[reelchippy]

Thanks guys but got BEP Marine switch 701s

[http://www.bepmarine.com/Mini-Select...-178-1406.html]

But the wiring diagram i got of the web site is for a 721

is it the same cheers

[http://www.bepmarine.com/store/web/C...Wiring_Dia.pdf]

Or the simplest way for a du**** cheer

[reelchippy]

Sorry about the link i always forget