$95 pacer at recycleland.

[rayke1938]

Picked this up at recycleland this morning. Bottom all scratched and big split in footwell.

Plastic is fairly thin in footwell so dont know if it will be possible to weld it . if not woll just rivet a plate over it. Destination is Ferals shed.

Cheers

Ray

[rayke1938]

the split.

[dan25]

great buy

[Rocket75]

good old recycleland!

[Davo_Dinkum]

nice

wtg ray finding the good treasure.

in the trash and treasure

[straddiebrad]

mate if u take it to were they fix wheely bins they use a plastic weld there

[mangler]

Nice score Ray, Should be able to fix that up no worries. As for the scratches on the bottom, in my experience, I've found that a bit of a clean up and some araldite into any deep ones does the trick.

Cheers,

Matt

[fishingnut]

SCORE! if ya need it welded I can give you a blokes number that does it for a living

[bootyinblue]

rayke1938 wrote:

Destination is Ferals shed.

Cheers

Ray

What is your shed full Ray?

I have fixed splits like that with araldite before. If you take your time it produces a pretty smooth finish.

[rumrunner]

good score Ray!

i would use a fibreglass repair kit from supercheap!

only cost $20

will reinforce the area needed no prob!

there will prob even be a bit left ova for the next crack that appears!

dont bother sanding afterwards! use enuff resin to make it smooth and then slap some paint on to fill the pin holes ect!

cheers Ian

[shortie]

rumrunner wrote:

good score Ray!

i would use a fibreglass repair kit from supercheap!

only cost $20

will reinforce the area needed no prob!

there will prob even be a bit left ova for the next crack that appears!

dont bother sanding afterwards! use enuff resin to make it smooth and then slap some paint on to fill the pin holes ect!

cheers Ian

I think you will find that the you will have problems getting the resin or araldite to adhere correctly to the polly. i might hold for awhile but will eventually come loose.

Contact Hulk. I believe he has a contact for the powder used to make these things. Them attact it with a large soldering iron and weld the crack yourself. Hopefully you can also get to the crack from the inside to seal it there as well.

good luck.

[fishingnut]

welding plastic isnt exactly that easy, there is a bit of a black art to do properly

but like I said ray, I know a bloke that does it for a living, hes mobile and up narangbar way

[rumrunner]

ok

[Davo_Dinkum]

i wonder if u could just drill the ends of the crack to stop if traveling and fill it up with scholastic or stickflex or something like that.

[rayke1938]

The crack had been repaired with some black flexible stuff and it hadnt adhered to the plastic.So I think welding would be the go but its up to feral to make the decision.

Cheers

Ray

[Feral]

Well as Ray said, I had a little repair job to undertake on the old girl.

I also needed some donor plastic for the welding, so it was an opportune time to install another hatch. Standard 6inch hatch in the front deck. Had read somewhere you use the lid as your template to put your hole in the deck. Dont believe em. I did that then had to cut another 2mm out around the edge! At least it gave me some thin strips for welding later on!

Cutting.

Done - except for the extra 2mm needed so the hatch actually fitted the hole!

Finished (No lid in it as I had been using all clear for the seal, and got a bit messy, was worried it might stick permanently!)

Putting in the hatch also fortuitously gave me access to the back of the cracked area.

The problem on closer examination has been caused because the Yak plastic is just to thin in the area. There is a localised area where the plastic is only about 1mm thick, whilst the rest of the yak is at least 2mm thick. So apart from repairing it I will have to reinforce it later on. Possibly sikaflex some aluminium sheet or strips bent to shape behind it. Might even get brave with some of that expanding foam that sets hard, that would give the best support as well as adding flotation.

Anyway, had a trial run welding near one end. Looked good

I was using my temperature controlled soldering iron set on 350 degrees. The temp was a guess, but seemed to nicely soften the plastic without burning, so left it on that setting.

Drove the tip of the iron through the Yak at the ends of the crack to stop it cracking further (same as drilling, but had the iron in my hand so why not!) and I did some little tacks along the length of the crack to bring it back in to shape so it could be welded fully.

Then it was just a matter of weld and wait for cooling.

Partially done

Completed. Not a bad job even if I do say so myself.

A few notes.

I have a much bigger soldering iron but chose not to use it. Most of what I read whilst researching kept talking about lots of heat. However it was also talking about penetration. The two of those did not sit comfortably in my mind for finesse work for me! So I tried the fine tip temp control soldering iron and found it to be perfect. Whilst welding small areas slowly the fine tip could be driven with precision well in to the existing plastic to soften it and blend the new plastic, with little risk of making a big hole. It worked perfectly!

I also did a little weld on the nose of my Seabreeze yak at the same time, I noticed a crack in it after carting it up to Baroon pocket the other day. Dunno if it was new or from another trip. but its fixed now as well! Even had a go at some of the deeper scratches under the yak, fixed them up no worries! Missus told me to put the soldering iron away I was looking dangerous!

[Feral]

Yak welding for Flatheadangler

[Brian D]

What a great post, good one Feral.

[Feral]

Yeah she is standing up well, it got 2 cans of expanding foam behind the welded area, not because I was worried about the welding process not working, but because that whole areas was a 1mm or less thick! Wanted some support for when the kids were jumping on it!