Jump to content

Going to inspect a boat tommorow What to look for?


51MPL

Recommended Posts

Well title says it all, what should I be looking for? -

Visible signs of rust - trailer & boat

damage to hull/trailer

see If all the rollers are still on the trailer?

What about the motor? Physical signs of mistreatment? - Obviously get them to fire it up and see if it works?

I'll be going northside to have a look at a couple boats, first one is a 3.9m quintrex trevally - 2002. Has a 25hp 4 stroke honda (says hes had boat for 2 years and only done 20-30hrs) on the back and pretty keen on this one. Will come with fish finder etc hes advertised at 5k but i'll see what will happen.

The second is a 4.1m 2004 brooker hull, 30hp merc (dnno if its 2 or 4stroke but is a 2007 model motor) and comes with the safety gear etc..

Any tips greatly appreciated, Dad has had boats in the past but I personally want to know what to look for so I dont end up with a lemon and waste my money.

Cheers boys! (& girls)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Most important proof of ownership.

Service history of motor ask to see log book/receipts.Even if motor has only done low hours it still should have had a yearly service and impeller change.

I would not concider a motor that did not have electric start and power trim and tilt. They make life so much easier and the motor will have a charge circuit to keep the battery charged.

Obvious things like condition of prop corrosion or split repairs.

What type of sounder if its an old black and white one it does not add any value to the boat.

Does it have legal nav lights?

Does it have bilge pump?

Condition of wireing?

Does the motor have a hydrofoil fitted if so good chance the hull is underpowered and owner has had problems getting it up on the plane.

Take the boat for a long test run preferably with 4 big mates in it and see if it gets up on plane easily and see how it handles in the chop. If you cant get any mates along a few buckets of water will do.What type of wheels on trailer Intergral bearings are mongrell things.

Cheers

Ray

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the 1 with the 25 honda, well sit in it where you would expect to sit, and if it hasnt got electric trim, you try and lift the motor up, they are bloody heavy to lift ant you will do yaself an injury if it hasnt. thats the reason i sold my 25 honda.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

take the cowling off motor, if any sign of salt in there around gasket edges or any salt at all stay away from it. if its a trevally they are a lil un stable, go explorer or other v nose punt, best hulls if you standing up luring all day. at least 1.8mtr beam and .8mtr sides, mick fillet said there was an explorer out his way for 3.5k good project boat with trailer and mariner 25 long shaft. could spend saved money on full floor and sounder and stuff.. if i could get the kids looked after tomorrow i would come along for another set of eyes to look over the rigs you look at..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

had a bit of a reply all typed up. pressed submit and it disappeared so i'll just summarise.

- if it's got false flooring, ask to inspect the bilge area for left over hooks, metal shavings, etc. support bracing = rust

- trailer wiring and lights

- check that all the pins and rods for rollers are in good nick

- bearings, move the wheels around for any play. ask when they were last replaced and packed with grease

- remove the engine cowl, check for salt build up or milky grease

- have a look at all the aftermarket add-ons, i.e. lights, sounder, bimini anchor points, transducer, etc. anything with rivets/screws will give you an indication of whether or not they've had the appropriate rust treatment i.e. duralac. however that said don't get too hung up about accessories as you'll probably move, change or upgrade anyway.

- wiring and fuses, etc. how old is the battery and make a mental note to see if a charger is on it for trickle charge.

- check that the safety gear is all good, mirror, flares, jackets, etc.

- have a good look at the welds for cracks (in particular on the hull), bubbling under the paint. it won't be perfect but it might give you an indication as to the maintenance or possible future work that you might need to do.

it's a long list khoi, just keep the check methodical. start from the bow of the boat and work your way towards the transom/motor, then work your way down to the trailer (winch, etc). some of the points are a little extreme like the trickle charge, hooks, etc. but it'll give you an idea how the owner maintains his/her boat.

- make a list of what needs replacing or what you'd like to change then head over to http://www.biasboating.com.au/ or https://www.whitworths.com.au/ to get the price on replacement costs

- also ask for log books!

plenty here to give you a hand and probably add more advice. where are you inspecting? i could probably come with you and have a bit of a poke around between 0900 - 1200 tomorrow if it's close by.

eug

Link to comment
Share on other sites

also think long term, if you're going to be building a casting platform, etc. steal some ideas from other boats and how you would set it up yourself. a point i forgot to mention is that you will more than likely put on an electric motor with the type of fishing you do, so think about how you'd mount the bow mount and battery, how much custom work would be involved, etc.

going off what the others guys have said: electric tilt and trim is a must

Link to comment
Share on other sites

in regards with the trailer,does the hull suit the trailer,not to big for the trailer length wise,no hull over hang at the back and fully supported by skids right to the rear even the the keel rollers should be touching the hull through out. if ya hook ya car up to trailer does ya boot open and not hit the winch post(boat to big for trailer).

lights on the trailer or trailer board?,lights on the trailer they would wana be led water proof ones or you will find ya self replacing them very soon at $80 a pop and clearance lights on the wheel arches flog out and often are the #1 cause of an earth leak occuring in the eletric system and that effects the rest of the lights on the trailer?vehicle. i personaly prefer trailer boards scince i made the change to trailer board i havnt had any light falures (its been 3 yrs or so scince i made the change to trailer board.)

regarding the motor, most new age outboards have a flushing system that you hook a hose up to but dont run the out board on the flushing system its a flushing system and not designed to run the motor on thats what muffs are designed for or a tub of water to run the out board in to give the impeler water at the botom of the leg, failing to do so can cause unreal damage (some blokes think ya gota run it and flush it for 20 min....na)

ask the owner how hes flushed it out in the past,then unscrew the fresh water flush cap off up near the cowl and there is nearly always some water left in the cap from the previous flush out even after long periods of storage,taste it mate ,and if there is no water lick the inside of the cap it sounds crazy but do it if you taste salt...bingo tells ya how well its been flushed.

good luck in with it all ay mate ;)

mick

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Really Ted? Wow that sucks.. Do you mind If I ask what went wrong with your trailer? (So i know what to look for)

Goodluck for coomera on sunday

I bought my boat off Ebay so I was not really purchasing the trailer. I was interested in the boat and motor. Unfortunately when I got it the original trailer that came with the boat was fitted with rollers not slides. This puts point pressure on the hull and will crack it. So I added the slides. I then had to replace the springs as well as they where on their last legs. I also replaced the rims and hubs so it tracked down the road better and also allowed for a higher speed on the highway. It is easy to spend a lot of money on a boat so make sure it is in reasonable order. Having said that you are buying a second hand boat so all boats will have something that is not perfect. Just need to determine if it matters and if it does, how much to fix.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have a good look around inside the boat for any white powder looking stuff on the hull as that is a sign of electrolysis.If you see any check real hard for any tiny pin holes.

Also check the floor of the hull for electrolysis or cracks especially where the floor ribs are welded to the side ribs.

Not a lot can really go wrong with a tinny hull.

Look underneath at the front and if the hull sheets are rippled or dented it has had a hard life and possibly not worth buying.

Fire up all the electronics to make sure they are working including any pumps and lighting,marine radio and any other electrics fitted.

For the trailer look for rust,cracked welds and check the winch post for cracks,tread on tyres ect.

Lights and bearings are a minor thing that regulary need fixing or replacing so wouldnt be too worried about them at first.

Make sure about a spare tyre.

With the motor the very first thing to check when you get there is the temp of the motor.

Put your hand on the leg below the cowling to see if its warm or hot as a lot of sellers run the motor before potential buyers get there and if its a motor thats got cold starting issues you will never know.

At least if the motors cold and he starts it easy you are half way to a good motor.

You cannot tell much from a motor by looking at it except its condition and water flow.Once started you can hear how it runs and see the water flow but other than that without a proper mechanics report is a gamble on what you are buying.

Take for a run as well if possible.

If its a 4 stroke check the engine oil before starting it to see if its nice and clean looking.Smell it for a burnt smell as well.

Check the prop for dings and cracks and line around the shaft.

Finally make sure its clear about what safety gear and/or accessories are included in the sale before handing any money over.

On the day of pickup get a Revs check for the proper ownership and debts owing on the boat package as these checks only cover you for that day.

If it has money owing just walk away and look for another one.

Good luck,always exciting buying a boat.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thankyou thankyou thankyou guys, heaps of great replies already. Yes aussie123 definitely exciting buying a boat I just have to remember to not get over-excited and dive right in - ie this thread. A bit of research will hopefully go a long way to making an informed decision about purchasing the right boat!

Soo many things have been lsited and i'm going to have to go over this a few times before tommorow but thankyou again.

Both boats are up northside Eug, If your really keen and want to come have a look i'll try to re-arrange to come look in the morning? That would be awsome to have another set of eyes there because dad knows a bit, i know hardly anything and yeah..

I'm not too fussy about the electronics at this stage, just trying to find a decent hull/outboard/trailer which i can put some time into and fit out with full casting decks and bow-mount leccy..

Aiming for my first boat to be a little canal/estuary/river boat for throwing lures around so hopefully all goes well!

Thanks again for the replies and looking forward to anything else which no-one's thought of/posted yet

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There was a super comprehensive post on this about 18 months or so ago which had a long list of things to look for. Someone who can search better than me might find it and bump it so you can sort through that list too.

Interesting comments on the roller versus strakes issue on alloy boats. Alloy boats are designed to sit on the NYLON rollers along the keel of the boat with the bilge strakes just resting on the hull holding the boat level and not rocking. If you have to heave and push your boat to launch it then its sitting too heavy on them and not on the rollers.

Glass boats are designed to be supported along the entire hull on both sides of the keel, hence all the rocker roller designs to hug the hull.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

merc is a two stroke and damn reliable (i have the same in 40HP), don't think the 30HP has electric tilt/trim though? the honda will probably suit your stealth style fishing as well.

neither of the anchor lights on both boats are suitable. both outboards have a hydrofoil. the middle bench on the honda boat would be a little annoying and the merc boat will certainly give you options to head outside and into the bay. so i guess the best way is to determine where you want to fish and what's your budget and stick to it. just remember plenty of other boats out there and they dont have to come from boost loosing :P

northside should be doable as long as it isn't caboolture or something.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Eug is on the money about the merc boat, head over to mud or what ever. And yes the honda is definitely a man power trim. The two boats wouldn't have much of a planing problem as they are light and seam to be powered correctly.

You could always buy my boat :whistle: :whistle: I am considering getting a new boat shortly, trade in on mine will probably be 15 cents, so I will tidy it up (needs bugger all) and advertise it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

personally i wouldnt even look at the trevally, to tippy and the motor is to bloody heavy to lift, dead set they are like liftin a 50 hp outboard, the bermuda looks more suitable for fishin the bay and will be less cluttered, cant comment on the stability though, only 1 way to find out though. dont be affraid to ask to try anything you want to know, dont just take the buyers word for it ! even go to the extent of a water test if he's close to a ramp, the weathjer is good tomorrow, so try n get on the water any way you can !:lol: good luck with it !

rob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah they're out at caboulture Eug.

Asking price on both of them are around 5k Wes.

Thanks again for the replies guys, heaps good being able to jump on and get good info from experienced people!

Not sure on budget at the moment but something aruond 5/6/7k - boat, trailer, motor. Then i can work on the decks and buy leccy myself

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Any recommendations on a stable hull suited to lure casting?

Im after something around 4m with a ~25hp (2/4 whatever just reliable).. Mainly need stable hull and good motor+trailer so which boats should i look for and which to stay away from?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

when i got my boat i can not stress how important it is to go for a drive in it. if the person says they cant DONT BUY IT simple. when i got my boat i had no idea what i was looking at i wanted to take it for a drive but the owner said he was too busy. the boat sounded the goods and was cheap so i couldnt let it go. i have now spent thousands fixing the issues that it has, and wasted 6 months of fixing some thing then going out on weekend testing and another thing breaks. ask when they last used the boat, this is where my boat was a mistake. because he hadnt used it in over 2 years. they hand controls on the consol was stuffed the control cables stuffed,. the electrical wireing stuffed the fuel tank was full of shit (80L tank aluminium not cheap!) the fuel lines were stuffed the carbys were blocked the fuel pump stuffed the floor buggered the trailer rusted with a coat of paint wheels had shit tires and no spair. the wheel bearings collapsed the winch broke the nav lights were stuffed, and the boat came with NO saftey gear, need'd an epirb PFD's flares, V, fire extinguisher, oars, then had to buy a sounder, a gps ect. my boat is now a very nice boat and im glad i have fixed it to the point i have as now i am very good with how boats work and how to get my self out of shit if ever issues at sea. but i would not wish buying a boat like this to any 1. when i went to have a look at the boat it ran and started fine. sounded awesome. untill i put it in the water and it wouldnt go into gear please take the boat for a spin :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quintrex explorer3.95-4.2 , stacer proline 3.99-4.2 , clarke427 estuary pursuit new package 7850 drive away ( 30hp merc) just make sure it is at least 1.8mtrs wide for stability, v nose punts have great stability i have the stacer proline old model and love how stable it is and gets in shhallow water and i still get to moreton on the good days, with the 25yammy on back it gets along fairly quick..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

lol one day denny.. ahh a skeeter with like a 200 on the back :D

Thanks wes i'll have a look around, if anyone see's anything please feel free to link it here or pm me!

Sorry to hear about what happened with your boat dave, i guess it goes to show how important it is to go for a test-run in the boat which i'll most definitely have to arrange for the right one.

Thanks again for all the replies, just got home from work so im gonna go sleep then wakeup n study! (*cough look for boats :P*)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah khoi caboolture is a bit far and will probably cut it close time wise for me... need to be back at uni by 1200.

i reckon for $5k you can afford to shop around and have a good look, find one around brisbane mate and we'll go have a look. should give you an idea of what to look for in future inspections. i'll shoot you a PM later today, remind me if i forget.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

One tip fr the outboard. If it has been well looked after, you should be able to look at the service reports. See if the mechanic has been doing compression tests and check that all cylinders have fairly equal compression ratios. If they are not close to the same, then you have a pretty good chance of being up for some expensive repairs in the near future. Good luck with your search!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There is a really nice quintres explorer 3.85 with 25hp 4 stroke and 24v 65 minnkota bow moum]nt leccy ,side swcan sounder.all casting deck . set up as a bream / bass boat on fishing monthly site.I know the bloke selling it from kfdu site He lives down jimboomba way
/>http://www.fishingmonthly.com.au/bb3/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=14410

Cheers

Ray

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There is a really nice quintres explorer 3.85 with 25hp 4 stroke and 24v 65 minnkota bow moum]nt leccy ,side swcan sounder.all casting deck . set up as a bream / bass boat on fishing monthly site.I know the bloke selling it from kfdu site He lives down jimboomba way
/>http://www.fishingmonthly.com.au/bb3/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=14410

Cheers

Ray

Nice looking boat. I reckon it would suite a lure fisherman like Khoi. Just one question, it seems a little hard to drive without a seat well

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There is a really nice quintres explorer 3.85 with 25hp 4 stroke and 24v 65 minnkota bow moum]nt leccy ,side swcan sounder.all casting deck . set up as a bream / bass boat on fishing monthly site.I know the bloke selling it from kfdu site He lives down jimboomba way
/>http://www.fishingmonthly.com.au/bb3/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=14410

Cheers

Ray

Nice looking boat. I reckon it would suite a lure fisherman like Khoi. Just one question, it seems a little hard to drive without a seat well

:lol: :lol: :lol: i reckon a hatch lifts up for ya to stick ya legs in,awsome lookin rig

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There is a really nice quintres explorer 3.85 with 25hp 4 stroke and 24v 65 minnkota bow moum]nt leccy ,side swcan sounder.all casting deck . set up as a bream / bass boat on fishing monthly site.I know the bloke selling it from kfdu site He lives down jimboomba way
/>http://www.fishingmonthly.com.au/bb3/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=14410

Cheers

Ray

Nice looking boat. I reckon it would suite a lure fisherman like Khoi. Just one question, it seems a little hard to drive without a seat well

:lol: :lol: :lol: i reckon a hatch lifts up for ya to stick ya legs in,awsome lookin rig

That makes sense - thanks mick

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That boat looks awsome Ray, damn good luring platform - again, how the hell do u drive the damn thing? hahaha..

I was thinking more along the lines of front casting deck/rear deck, and the middle not raised so much incase i do head out into the river for some livey trips. That way we'll have somewhere to sit (on the false floor haha)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...